Help with managing corrosion

If any of you are worrying about corrosion then buy yourself a LR Defender. They are covered in aluminium which is wrapped around a metal framework. Where the two metals contact there is a corrosive reaction.
Ehh no thanks :)
 
I would appreciate it if you would provide me with some advice regarding corrosion.

I have just written to BMW Customer Services with a formal complaint regarding the quality my 2010 Adventure (17,300 miles) and the degree of corrosion the bike is now suffering.

The first two images are of my left had rocker cover. Local dealer has said that this is due to stone chips and are refusing to help (the right is suffering no corrosion at all). Do you think I will get any support from BMW CS? If I don't any suggestion on how to remedy?

The second two images show some of the corrosion I'm seeing on the bike frame (this is just a selection, there's more). This doesn't look as serious as the engine corrosion but I would appreciate any advice on the best way of fixing it and protecting it going forward.

For what it's worth the bike was ACF'd last May (All Year Biker). I tend not to wash the bike once it's ACF'd until after the winter - mistake?

Thanks,

Mike

My 30th is a 2010 and if you look in the classified bike for sale section you will see that there is no corrosion.
I use acf50 and re-apply frequently after hosing down a quick wipe dry, if it got dirty before putting the bike away... I also use front mudguard extender and rear hugger to stop the crap spraying up in the first place... Will be putting them for sale in the classifieds soon...
That does look quite bad, it wouldn't have happened overnight though so why leave it until it got that bad?
 
I am a new GS owner, and bought a dec 2011 model last week with a bit of corrosion around the bolts on the front engine cover.
I bought it knowing this tends to happen, but would be disappointed with corrosion like that on the frame unless I had damaged the paint and not treated it.

It's like any car, if you get stone chips and leave it long enough the paint corrodes from the metal or it rusts. Perhaps Bike manufacturers should explore better paint finishes that are more hard wearing and resistant to damage, after all they are often more exposed, and I'm pretty sure a special paint or finish will be available.

As for me....I cleaned my bike thoroughly when I got it home(for me anyway) and then covered everything with ACF50....including the back tyre by pushing it through the acf50 that had dripped onto the ground.:blast
I'm hoping the corrosion won't get any worse, otherwise I will end up paying to sort it out as it's not something I would have a go at
 
Doesn't matter how well you protect it if your dealer insists on letting their car wash monkeys blast the f--- off of it with a pressure washer each time it goes in for a service.
 
Just putting mine back together after dealing with the rear end issues. Frame, wheel hub, stands and head covers all stripped and repainted and everything else cleaned.



Next remove exaust and do the skid plate, engine, timing cover
 

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Seen very similar on mine
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And after, y no means perfect but I'm happy with it...

Just don't look too close .....:augie
 

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Just putting mine back together after dealing with the rear end issues. Frame, wheel hub, stands and head covers all stripped and repainted and everything else cleaned.

Next remove exaust and do the skid plate, engine, timing cover

Mine needs the same treatment. Frame will get powder coated as will the front cover.

The issue isn't paint toughness it's the rapid corrosion of aluminium when salt is around and a short mudguard at least for the front cover. Ally isn't used on ships for good reason. The BMW paint is so tough it can't be shot blasted off aluminium without blasting away underlying metal. But all paints will get pinholed sooner or later.
Mark Hooten's crud catcher makes sense for any BMW.



Sent from a widget that can't spell.
 
Don't be taken in by just rinse off the acf every month or so and reapply especially for ally panniers I had all year biker application and after really not a lot of salty road use it burned right through the acf. If you can avoid using your ally panniers in winter then take em off. Rest of bike is fine but some of the coating of bolt heads has gone leaving a mottled finish - so despite my efforts no longer as new. after acf regularly rinse of the salt with a hosepipe - no big deal and why take the risk?. Crud catcher, extended mudgaurd and mudsplash have all done a very good job. that silicon spray mentioned above seems worth a try.
 
Iv used GT85 for years very good stuff has Teflon good to just put on a rag & wipe areas do my cycle frames before going off road mud falls off won't stick I dislike the spray it everywhere approach my GS was acf,d had made a bloody mess when trying to clean the bike I do keep stuff looked after dry garage don't ride in depths of winter reason my heated grips are a waste of time :rolleyes: my vans for the winter lol

Iv seen far worse jap bike corrosion on nearly new bikes on mine I need to do my front engine cover foot peg area & centre stand has some minor rust too otherwise good for a 05 62k mile bike.

GT85 is very good for spraying on drills sawblades etc helps cutting reduces friction.
 


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