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Thread: What's the best drill bit to use for broken stud?

  1. #1
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    What's the best drill bit to use for broken stud?

    Have to remove a broken stud on my 06 GSA , bottom bolt on the diagonal bar under the tank that then links to the rear frame and goes into the engine block , it snapped just below the surface so cannot get a nut onto it or weld , tried ez out and its been well soaked with penetrating stuff , have managed to drill 20mm out but still have 20mm to go and im getting through drill bits like their smarties .

    read loads on technique etc and have started small and then large but the last 20mm is out of reach for my small drill bits and I really do not want to have to take the engine out .

    If im lucky I will be able to retap to M10 but if not have next size on standby ,

    whats the best drill type to use , hss , cobalt etc as this bugger has to come out at the weekend so I can put the old girl back on the road after a year out .

  2. #2
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    A good drill at a slow speed with proper cutting oil.

  3. #3
    Appreciating Scotland Click here to find out how to Subscribe
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    Cobalt first and last. +1 on Ian's comments.
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    You need long drills not easy to find dormer presto are some of the best Iv got a few try the web someone must sell them but don't buy cheap ones I bent a drill bit the other day they should snap not bend lol

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    Long series cobalt, try Axminster - they supply what I use.

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    Axminster you mean lol your spell check or auto type thingy on

    http://www.axminster.co.uk/long-series-drill-bits

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    I find that cheap bits tend to shatter on awkward jobs like this. A fragment jammed down the hole is game over for drilling.
    I've had success with re ground masonry drills. Grind the tip to a metal cutting profile and use LOTS of cutting /cooling oil.
    If the newly drilled out hole isn't too large a thread insert can help. Something like a Timesert fastened in with high strength thread lock. This is an example http://www.carrlane.com/Catalog/inde...3C3B285356445B I have not used this brand.


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    I can't add to that post for some reason. It helps a lot if you can make a jig block or plate to keep the drill aligned. Also masonry can be more easily found in longer lengths


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    Dormer HSS drill bits and discard as soon as they lose their edge. Start drilling with a centre bit. Then use a 3mm bit to the required depth. Work upwards in 1mm sizes. Drill as slowly as possible with a firm pressure applied to the drill. Use plenty of cutting fluid or a thin oil. If you are doing it correctly, the swarf should come off like spiral springs.

    The mistake most make is that they drill too fast with blunt bits and no cutting fluid.
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  11. #11
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    thanks guys

    all really helpful , only reason the bolt had to come out was to get to the alternator which had seized and had the usual issues with corroded bolts on the alternator cover that wouldn't come off and bugger all space to get to anything .

    This will not beat me and she will ride again.

  12. #12
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    Cobalt steel bits, loads and loads of coolant, slow speed and gentle pressure not over forcing the bit. Ideally use a left handed drill bit if you can get one with the chuck rotating backwards so if it bites it might turn out the threaded part if you are lucky.
    ADAM


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  13. #13
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    If you are asking this question, you should not be attempting the job, but leave it to a pro, who would find it easier to do if you haven't already made a rat's-ringpiece of the job by following 'advice' from a few non-pros on a forum.......

  14. #14
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    Big problems happen when the bits blunt then burnish the cutting face, its just a few thou but can be proper hard, sometimes centre punching the burnished face can encourage the new bit to bite again, once its cutting again, keep it slow, keep it cool.
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  15. #15
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    you can get a left handed drill bit (not a wind up)when you drill the stud they normally unscrew the stud as they grip


    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Left-Hand-...item3a907bad8a

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    go with these:- http://www.amazon.co.uk/Neiko-13-Pie...ef=pd_cp_diy_0

    Left hand bits which will assist with getting a stud out, and titanium coated, again go slow lots of pressure and cutting/drilling fluid.
    Titanium coating wont last as long as a cobalt/steel drill as you can re sharpen them, but titanium is harder and if you keep them for just this sort of job they will last you for years.
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