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Thread: What's the best drill bit to use for broken stud?

  1. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tone 1 View Post
    you can get a left handed drill bit (not a wind up)when you drill the stud they normally unscrew the stud as they grip


    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Left-Hand-...item3a907bad8a
    are you suggesting that as the drill 'bites' into the stud it'll wind it out??

    Best of luck with that one mate - a drill chuck only just holds the drill bit to create drive, if it held it any tighter it'd snap your wrist if it 'snagged'

    back to the problem- why not use a 'stud extractor'?? now one of these may just get it out if you have not knackered it already. these extractors get TIGHTER the further you can wind it in, in fact that tight that the stud gives up and starts turning out





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  2. #18
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    whatever m8, as for a stud extractor what if nothing is sticking out ?? easy outs are more trouble than they are worth especially when they snap

    " are you suggesting that as the drill 'bites' into the stud it'll wind it out?? " YES even on rusted ones use plenty of penetrating oil and let it soak


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  3. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by digga View Post
    are you suggesting that as the drill 'bites' into the stud it'll wind it out??

    Best of luck with that one mate - a drill chuck only just holds the drill bit to create drive, if it held it any tighter it'd snap your wrist if it 'snagged'

    back to the problem- why not use a 'stud extractor'?? now one of these may just get it out if you have not knackered it already. these extractors get TIGHTER the further you can wind it in, in fact that tight that the stud gives up and starts turning out


    they can turn the stud out, once you have drilled it sufficiently to remove the pressure, they won't generally though, stud extractors will only work, if you can get a good purchase on and you can heat the stud up to a cherry red, but if you could do that, then you should have before the stud snapped,

    on Gs'ers I normally just end up drilling progressively bigger, until I can either pick the remaining threads out and re Tap, or if it's slightly off centre, drilled out to helicoil size and re Tapped,

    a good centre punch is an essential start, get it in the centre of the stud and keeping it straight and true is much easier,

    had to drill out 6 studs this morning on a boxster, not fun!

  4. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by ianboydsnr View Post
    they can turn the stud out, once you have drilled it sufficiently to remove the pressure, they won't generally though, stud extractors will only work, if you can get a good purchase on and you can heat the stud up to a cherry red, but if you could do that, then you should have before the stud snapped,

    on Gs'ers I normally just end up drilling progressively bigger, until I can either pick the remaining threads out and re Tap, or if it's slightly off centre, drilled out to helicoil size and re Tapped,

    a good centre punch is an essential start, get it in the centre of the stud and keeping it straight and true is much easier,

    had to drill out 6 studs this morning on a boxster, not fun!
    Not much point in doing that. The stud is stuck fast due to corrosion, which in turn has effectively increased the stud diameter, the very reason it won't move. What's the point in applying heat when all it will do is increase the size further?

    Heat should be applied around the local area to the stud to create expansion of the female thread, not the male (stud) thread.

  5. #21
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    Ref post #21

    I didn't realise you couldn't edit a post in this section! I wanted to remove my post on the grounds I think I may have misunderstood what Ian was suggesting.

  6. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayC View Post
    Ref post #21

    I didn't realise you couldn't edit a post in this section! I wanted to remove my post on the grounds I think I may have misunderstood what Ian was suggesting.
    You can edit / delete your post up to an hour after you've posted it i think.
    Though others may have better advice;
    http://knowyourmeme.com/photos/157778-stop-posting

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  7. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ogmios View Post
    You can edit / delete your post up to an hour after you've posted it i think.
    Though others may have better advice;
    http://knowyourmeme.com/photos/157778-stop-posting

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    No ' edit' button on my screen, either now or at the time of posting!

    Mods: Feel free to delete all post from, and incl, post#21.

  8. #24
    Shedi Knight Click here to find out how to Subscribe
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    Apologies to all.
    I should heed my own post and ... stop posting :
    As i see the 'rules' are different in The Font Of All....
    Sorry for that.
    Delete my 'contribution' Mods.
    appears bright from a distance / dim up close

  9. #25
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    My apologies for not making it clear, the heat is to both expand the stud and boil off any thread lock, which is used when manufactured, once cooled, forced or otherwise, to warm, stud should wind out without snapping!

  10. #26
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    Seriously:

    One with a left hand thread. Yes, and, of course, the drill running backwards.
    You have a good chance the broken bolt will self extract.
    Myke

  11. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timpo View Post
    If you are asking this question, you should not be attempting the job, but leave it to a pro, who would find it easier to do if you haven't already made a rat's-ringpiece of the job by following 'advice' from a few non-pros on a forum.......
    i completely agree with the above
    i have lost count of the number of threads on this forum where chaps have dived in to drill bolts/studs out and have bollixxed the job completely
    you are not going to succeed in drilling a high tensile or forged bolt with cheap shit chinese drill bits.
    still,looking on the brighter side of things ,it keeps me in a job

  12. #28
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    With due respect what a croc of shit.

    I sell high end cutting tools to the engineering industry.
    Cobalt is the way to go but 9 times out of 10 you will fcuk it up as you will almost certainly not be able to drill dead center.

    My success rate on mates bikes is 6 out of 10.

    Then you will get a carbon steel left hand stud extractor which will break and you will be in double shit.

    Take it to somebody who knows what they are doing Steptoe for instance

  13. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by Timpo View Post
    If you are asking this question, you should not be attempting the job, but leave it to a pro, who would find it easier to do if you haven't already made a rat's-ringpiece of the job by following 'advice' from a few non-pros on a forum.......
    Absolutely, especially when the advise isn't to resharpen the drill but to chuck it

  14. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rare-Red View Post
    With due respect what a croc of shit.

    I sell high end cutting tools to the engineering industry.
    Cobalt is the way to go but 9 times out of 10 you will fcuk it up as you will almost certainly not be able to drill dead center.

    My success rate on mates bikes is 6 out of 10.

    Then you will get a carbon steel left hand stud extractor which will break and you will be in double shit.

    Take it to somebody who knows what they are doing Steptoe for instance

    You sure your not getting a stud extractor and an easy out mixed up?

    You know, a stud extractor that grips around a stud, instead of an easy out, that screws anti clockwise into a drilled hole, then snaps, what kind of high end tools do you sell like

  15. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timolgra View Post
    Absolutely, especially when the advise isn't to resharpen the drill but to chuck it
    My boss bought some drills from screwfix, we chucked them without even using most of them, a drill bit should not bend

  16. #32
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    I've had success in the past by drilling a hole the best I can (usually off centre) and then hammering something slightly tapered into the hole like a Torx bit then using an impact driver (manual type) and hammer.

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