Can't help much but I did have a day trip to Mostar from Split, taking the inland road (D60?) there and the Croatian coast road back. The inland road was surprisingly good through Croatia but was very mixed in Bosnia and you pass through one or two industrial wastelands which don't lift the spirits. If you go off the beaten track, there are abandoned and burned out houses here and there with graffiti all indicating the break down of once peaceful communities into religious factions. Mostar and its fantastic rebuilt bridge (signposts to the bridge are everywhere) are definitely worth visiting if only to spend a little time reflecting on recent history. I had a coffee looking up at the hillside from where the Serb firepower had pinned down civilians what seems like five minutes ago. I was surprised at the number of tourists from all over the world. The road from Mostar to the coast runs alongside a pleasant river valley although the road surface wasn't great.
Parking (even for bikes) is a little tricky very close to the bridge. I ended up paying a few Euros to a guy who looked after my bike at his cousin's cafe (you know the sort of thing) but, then, I am a bit of a soft touch. I had a green card but you can buy insurance at the border. I didn't bother changing currency and it wasn't a problem: I used Euros. (I suspect the cafes near the bridge would take just about any currency). I came away really glad that I had made the effort to see the country and the bridge but (admittedly on the paltry evidence of a very short trip), I didn't find myself desperate to spend more time there. Bosnia has had an awful time and needs investment: I suspect it'll be a long road to EU membership but it just seems wrong to see a country so near to us with so little support.
