We were there on 690's a couple of years ago and on GS's in 2009 - great country. Sadly (for us at least, but I'm sure very welcome by the locals) tarmac is rapidly replacing the unsurfaced roads. My top tip - stay away from the busy coastal area around Durres and head for the hills in the north east on the borders with Macedonia and Kosovo. Also don't overlook Kosovo - the border crossing is easy from Albania (not so from Serbia) and it's a very pretty and friendly place