welding tank emblems on tank ?

My old fella used to empty the tank, allow it to dry out over night and hook up the filler neck to the exhaust pipe of the car. Leave it running for a few minutes with the tank venting via the petcock and then weld away whilst its still running. Never went boom.

Unfortunately he died of Carbon monoxide poisoning..........:D
 
ok sometimes you have to admit what you wanted is not allways the best way so i think it will be taped on with a VHB or similar product

I did a similar thing to a Honda 750/4 a few years back.... you will be left with the screw holes, so get some stainless screws and cut the heads off, these can then be glued (Araldite) into the holes prior to the badges being stuck on...
 
Harley made those badges with no screw holes and self adhesive backing ........ I know this because I fitted some to my Heritage
 
Have you got a welder ?
Preferably tig ?
(Do you have gas)
Infact fuck the fucking welder, do you have gas ?
Oxy\Hydrogen. Oxy\ propane. Oxy\ Acetylene ?

What metal is the badge made of ?

Your tank will just be blown\ pressed mild steel, the badge however is the unknown element.
Post up some pictures of the back of your badges, are they recessed for the tank mounts or just flat ?

Me personally, I would , if the badges are flush, heat the tank with oxy\Hydrogen where you want to mount the badge tabs, form the tank in as you heat it, then I would either tig the tabs on or hammer\gas weld them.

This will ruin any paintwork you have.
 
Have you got a welder ?
Preferably tig ?
(Do you have gas)
Infact fuck the fucking welder, do you have gas ?
Oxy\Hydrogen. Oxy\ propane. Oxy\ Acetylene ?

What metal is the badge made of ?

Your tank will just be blown\ pressed mild steel, the badge however is the unknown element.
Post up some pictures of the back of your badges, are they recessed for the tank mounts or just flat ?

Me personally, I would , if the badges are flush, heat the tank with oxy\Hydrogen where you want to mount the badge tabs, form the tank in as you heat it, then I would either tig the tabs on or hammer\gas weld them.

This will ruin any paintwork you have.

i will stick them on i think
 
i will stick them on i think

3M do a range of automotive tapes. But if you have a Brown Bros Distribution Branch nearby they also sell pro quality body shop automotive tapes that will fit the badges flush. They are a one chance fit, get it wrong and it can be a nightmare to remove them as the adhesives are so good!
http://www.brownbrothers.com/contact-us/our-locations

Even the trade desk prices of some of the tapes can bring a tear to the eye and a big dent in the credit card.
 
Dave, if you use tape and have a "line up" problem, the way to remove is not too difficult. I've debadged a car this way..

Get some strong fishing line, but make sure its no thicker then the VHB tape and warm the badge with a hairdryer, or hot air gun on a low setting.... Slip the catgut between the badge and the tank and gentle "saw" through the adhesive, residue can then be removed with White spirit etc...
 
I had an alloy petrol tank TIG welded. The guy put a slow feed of CO2 (cheaper than argon) into the tank and welded away.
A steel tank was brazen after a paint in a caustic dip tank. There was no petrol smell and no hazard for welding. Only snag was protecting the tank inside from rusting.
 
i think when i get around to it i will go with the adhesive strip as they seem to be pretty good and besides by the time the adhesives wheres off i may not even have the bike,i know thats hard to believe:augie
 
Sorry about the aggressive spell correction. Blame Apple. Paint was STRIPPED in a caustic tank which took away all signs of petrol residue.
 
sorry to post sensible suggestions in here,not normal i know:D
if you wanted to screw fix the badges i can put you in touch with someone who could make some blind "slugs" and solder or braze them in,
failing that if you decided to go for stick on ones you could put them on wet.
use a really weak mix of washing up liquid/water and slide them into position,then push them on .
this will allow them to stick and the water will dry out,they will stick as normal
i used to use this method when fitting decals to vans and it will stop the initial grab of the adhesive allowing you to float them into position.
it worked really well and i see no reason why it would not work on smaller stuff:thumb
carry on chaps:beerjug:
 
I'd use silicon rubber. If everything is clean before you start - it'll be a pretty permanent fix, but give you a decent amount of time to get them lined up, just so.
If you cock it up then remove using fishing line.
 


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