800 over 1200?

I'd rather be pluging a tubeless than sorting out a puncture in a tube believe me I've been trough it. JJH

Swapping a tube is a bit more of a faff than plugging a tyre, that's true but after plugging, you're then restricted to 50 (in theory) until it's properly repaired or replaced.

Plus, it's not always possible to plug a tubeless tyre in (as happened to me a few months back) in which case you're left waiting for a recovery van. Had I been on my rally bike, I'd have been able to put a new tube in and be on my way within about 20 minutes. Luck of the draw though, I guess.

Linseal works in tubes and tubeless tyres as well and does a great job of sealing punctures on the fly so well worth considering whichever tyres are used.
 
Swapping a tube is a bit more of a faff than plugging a tyre, that's true but after plugging, you're then restricted to 50 (in theory) until it's properly repaired or replaced.

Who says that then :nenau
 
Swapping a tube is a bit more of a faff than plugging a tyre, that's true but after plugging, you're then restricted to 50 (in theory) until it's properly repaired or replaced.

I used an unsophisticated tyre plug kit with the above stipulation and it was 50 kph IIRC. What I do remember correctly is the fairly new ( sub 1000 miles ) rear Pirelli stayed on the bike ( Honda Firestorm ) and saw out its tread cruising long motorway miles at a 'tad' over 70mph, hooned the Surrey and Hampshire back roads and did a track day at Lyddon.

I've had 'proper' tyre puncture plugs for about 15 years and at one point my old Blackbird had 4 of them in the rear. ( Ride on the less used bits of road and you tend to pick up more than your fair share of nails ).

Get your tyres done 'properly' by all means but in my experience roadside tyre repair plugs do the job just fine.
 
Let's get a few things straight here. 1/ a puncture in a tyre with a tube in it is a fair bit more trouble to deal with than a tubeless one. 2/ with the correct plug you can be on your way in 5 minutes with no restrictions on speed. 3/ very very rarely does a tubeless tyre blow out. 4/ carrying a tube is a good idea but putting a 21 inch tube into a 17 inch wheel is dangerous and due to the tube having to fold up in places to fit would increase the lightly hood of a sudden rapid failure. 5/ it is not a good idea to use emergency tyre inflator/ sealer due to the relitavely flimsy nature of a tube especially if some of the original glass or nail stayed in the tyre to further weaken the tube. I have plugged tyers many times before using a kit about 2/4/5 inches. Try carrying all the stuff you would need to fix a tubed tyre in that volume. Tubeless is safer easier to replace handier to repair. JJH
 
Let's get a few things straight here. 1/ a puncture in a tyre with a tube in it is a fair bit more trouble to deal with than a tubeless one. 2/ with the correct plug you can be on your way in 5 minutes with no restrictions on speed. 3/ very very rarely does a tubeless tyre blow out. 4/ carrying a tube is a good idea but putting a 21 inch tube into a 17 inch wheel is dangerous and due to the tube having to fold up in places to fit would increase the lightly hood of a sudden rapid failure. 5/ it is not a good idea to use emergency tyre inflator/ sealer due to the relitavely flimsy nature of a tube especially if some of the original glass or nail stayed in the tyre to further weaken the tube. I have plugged tyers many times before using a kit about 2/4/5 inches. Try carrying all the stuff you would need to fix a tubed tyre in that volume. Tubeless is safer easier to replace handier to repair. JJH

6/ Let's try using paragraphs, punctuation and line spacing :rob
 
Let's get a few things straight here. 1/ a puncture in a tyre with a tube in it is a fair bit more trouble to deal with than a tubeless one. 2/ with the correct plug you can be on your way in 5 minutes with no restrictions on speed. 3/ very very rarely does a tubeless tyre blow out. 4/ carrying a tube is a good idea but putting a 21 inch tube into a 17 inch wheel is dangerous and due to the tube having to fold up in places to fit would increase the lightly hood of a sudden rapid failure. 5/ it is not a good idea to use emergency tyre inflator/ sealer due to the relitavely flimsy nature of a tube especially if some of the original glass or nail stayed in the tyre to further weaken the tube. I have plugged tyers many times before using a kit about 2/4/5 inches. Try carrying all the stuff you would need to fix a tubed tyre in that volume. Tubeless is safer easier to replace handier to repair. JJH

Horses for course both systems have their advantages off road tubed are better they don't go down with a damaged rim and you can run lower pressures road riding tubeless less weight better balance can run at higher speeds without heat problems and of course you can fix a puncture with a plug a tyre
 
And that's the truth but if your rims can run tubeless you have a choice if they can't run tubeless your stuck with tubes. And that in my opinion is a failing with the f800gs/a. The technology is there. I had it with my r100gs and my capponord. JJH
 
Most tubeless plug kits state max 50 mph... I did state "in theory", I didn't say you had to stick to the advice on the tin.

Re putting a 21" tube in a 17" wheel - yes, it's a stop gap to get you home. I wouldn't suggest running it longer than you needed to.

At the end of the day, the whole point was that having tubed tyres isn't that much of a hindrance unless you want it to be. If you really wanted tubeless only, you could always fit a set of Tubliss to the spoked wheels and run tubeless tyres anyway.

Horses for courses though. On my road bike, I carry a tubeless repair kit. On my dirt bike I run HD tubes, Linseal and carry, levers in a tool roll in a Kriega US5 with a spare tube cable tied to it. Neither takes up a great deal of space and both will keep me going in the event of a flat.
 
I was talking to Herbert, boss man at Touratech, at the launch of the F800GS. He'd done several thousand 'development' miles in Africa before the 'bike was launched.

I asked him about the tubed rims fitted, why not tubeless aka the old R100GS, said it was about cost, but in the desert if you suffered a severe gash to a tubed tyre then you can repair with a new tube, which you would probably be carrying. But with a tubeless tyre you would probably be fecked, 'cos you probably wouldn't be carrying a tube :eek:

I smelt a bit of bullshit, but with an element of truth maybe :nenau

All I know is that with 112,000 miles on my F8GS, probably 200,000 miles on a variety of F650GS's Yamaha TTR250 (girlfriend Sue) and my beloved Xcountry, two overland trips through Siberia, Mongolia, China, the Stans, and then Iran and Pakistan and the Karakorum Highway ..... tubed tyres have not been a problem :D

:beerjug:

Edit .... for the 1200 owners, neither have chains'n sprockets been a problem ;)
 
I was talking to Herbert, boss man at Touratech, at the launch of the F800GS. He'd done several thousand 'development' miles in Africa before the 'bike was launched.

I asked him about the tubed rims fitted, why not tubeless aka the old R100GS, said it was about cost, but in the desert if you suffered a severe gash to a tubed tyre then you can repair with a new tube, which you would probably be carrying. But with a tubeless tyre you would probably be fecked, 'cos you probably wouldn't be carrying a tube :eek:

I smelt a bit of bullshit, but with an element of truth maybe :nenau

All I know is that with 112,000 miles on my F8GS, probably 200,000 miles on a variety of F650GS's Yamaha TTR250 (girlfriend Sue) and my beloved Xcountry, two overland trips through Siberia, Mongolia, China, the Stans, and then Iran and Pakistan and the Karakorum Highway ..... tubed tyres have not been a problem :D

:beerjug:

Edit .... for the 1200 owners, neither have chains'n sprockets been a problem ;)

Yes but chains and sprockets only last about 20k miles and the final drives last..........................................about the same :blast
 
Yes but chains and sprockets only last about 20k miles and the final drives last..........................................about the same :blast

Ha ha ... good one Steve :thumb

AND ... using the 'Castrol OR' chain spray my 'back end' is cleaner than yer average 1200's :D

:beerjug:
 
Must admit if I rode solo I'd go for the 800, although probably the new Triumph., or even the smaller Versys - possibly the most outright fun bike I've owned.

However, whilst 90% of my rides are solo, about 70% of the actual mileage is 2up where the extra CC of the 1200 makes a huge difference, especially when carrying camping gear on top.
 
Must admit if I rode solo I'd go for the 800, although probably the new Triumph., or even the smaller Versys - possibly the most outright fun bike I've owned.

However, whilst 90% of my rides are solo, about 70% of the actual mileage is 2up where the extra CC of the 1200 makes a huge difference, especially when carrying camping gear on top.

Can't find fault with that ol' fella :thumb

:beerjug:
 


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