Battery 'regulator' issue?

mrsroynie

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So, Roynie and I got home safely about a month ago, parked the bikes up in the garage, stuck them both on trickle charge and, frankly, haven't been near them since - until last week, when we rolled them out to give them a bit of a wash. Would they start to ride them back in? Hell, no. Of course not. :blast

Roynie's issue was simple user error. He hadn't switched the socket on, so the charger hadn't been working. But mine was a bit of a mystery. The BMW charger was working and (according to R) the display was showing the battery as charged. (I was busy when he disconnected the charger, so I didn't see the display myself.) Whatever. When we came to try and start the bike, there wasn't even enough charge in the battery to light the dash.

We lifted the tank and checked the battery. A couple of the cells were quite dry, so we topped it up and tried charging again. It was quickly obvious that it wasn't charging correctly. Ok, so the battery is f*ck*d and I need a new one. But, hang on? This is the third battery I've had since we left in April ....

The first was a newish Odyssey, which died during the nine weeks that the bike was left in Moscow. The Russians had apparently never seen an Odyssey battery before and told me that it had died because it was a 6V battery and too weak for the bike. The mechanic is a nice guy, and a friend of a friend, but has very little English and I was in no position to argue as I don't speak Russian - but, surely, that isn't true, is it? I know a lot of you use Odyssey batteries and I've never had a problem with it before.

Seemingly, the Russians don't go in for sealed or gel batteries, so the Odyssey was replaced with a standard Yuasa wet cell. We didn't treat it very kindly, it has to be said, as I only rode the bike a few kilometres before it was put on a train to Irkutsk ... where it had gone completely flat and we had all sorts of fun and games trying to start the bike on a station platform.

All seemed ok from Irkutsk to Ulaanbataar and the bike got me back as far as Mariinsk, where we took another unscheduled break in our ride while Roynie recovered from surgery for a broken leg. (We like to do things in pairs. :D)

I put the bikes on a truck to Moscow and, when we collect them from the transport depot three weeks later, the new battery had gone flat. On inspection, the cells were completely dry - but, at the time, we put this down to the bike having fallen on its side on the truck! (Apart from the battery, the 1150 was pretty much undamaged. Roynie was less lucky. Please don't ask me why I didn't put the bikes on a train. :blast There's no perfect science as hindsight ...) Anyway, we topped the battery up and tried to charge it, but it wouldn't hold a charge and had to be replaced with battery #3.

Eventually, we left Moscow for our final dash across Europe. The bike ran fine for the ten days it took us to get home, but ... I noticed that, despite the high mileage, each morning the bike was having difficulty starting. If I didn't know better, I would have said the symptoms looked like a flat battery ....

Sorry for the long story. If you're still with me, the reason I'm posting here is that we met up with a bunch of friends yesterday and two of them suggested that it sounded as if the batteries were boiling dry due to too much charge going into them and that this might indicate a 'regulator' (or 'rectifier') issue - two guys, two different words for the same thing - not sure which is correct.

Does this sound plausible and, as I'm going to have to put another new battery on the bike, am I likely to kill it with a trip of 200km to the nearest dealer? Or do you have any other suggestions as to what might be going on with all these batteries?

Thanks in advance.
 
Can you put a volt meter across battery terminals when its running. (take it for a few miles run first then check when you get back) I recall it should read between 14.4v and 14.9 being a little high. Any higher and yes you have a problem with the alternator.
 
Sounds like overcharging. You don't have to take it to a dealer. Any compentant auto electrician should be able to repair/replace the offending part. It could be something simple. It should not cost a lot. If they can tell you what's wrong but don't have parts Motorworks are your best friend. Keep us posted. Jjh
 
As above with the voltage check and a fully charged new battery in place...but the batteries have all failed after sitting for weeks. Any accessories fitted to the bike that could drain the battery?
The poor starting could also point to a faulty starter motor, which will not help the battery.
Loss of acid is a symptom of overcharging though, although I would think this pretty rare on the 1150?
 
Thanks, all.

As above with the voltage check and a fully charged new battery in place...but the batteries have all failed after sitting for weeks.

I think the batteries apparently failing after sitting for weeks is a bit of a red herring. The other common denominator is that I generally do very little riding/short distances when at home in Ireland - so overcharging might not be apparent - whereas during the trip we were riding hundreds of kilometres per day. If the battery had overcharged, it would explain why the electrolyte/acid had boiled away. We were mystified as to how a new battery could run dry so quickly.

Glad to know that it sounds as if it may be an easy/cheap fix. I'll sort out a new battery tomorrow and we'll go from there.
 
I wouldn't be rushing out to buy a battery till you know what's causing the problem. Jjh
 
I wouldn't be rushing out to buy a battery till you know what's causing the problem. Jjh
We did put a volt meter on the battery after we had it on charge for a couple of days. We got a reading of approx 6.5v ... Hooked it up to the car battery to try and jump start the bike. At least the dash lights came up nice and bright for a moment, but one press of the starter button and we were back to square one. The consensus was that it's beyond redemption. At least if we can get the bike running, we can see what, if any, charge the alternator is putting out.
 
Put a fully charged battery on the bike but only connect the red positive side.

Set your meter to dc amps and connect the positive meter lead to the battery negative terminal and the neg meter lead to the unconnected neg battery lead.

Take a reading, If the reading is only a few milliamps then connect the battery and start the engine and measure the charging voltage, as has already been said around 14 volts is good. Any more and the regulator is probably at fault.

If the reading is higher then there could be a problem, 100 milliamps will flatten a bike battery in less than a week. Leave the meter connected to the neg terminal and neg lead to read the current and remove one fuse at a time and see what effect this has on the reading, if the reading drops to a few millamps then there is a fault on that circuit controlled by that fuse.

If after removing all the fuses the high drain is still present you need to disconnect the alternator, I think this type of alternator has the regulator/rectifier (two different things) built into it and not as a separate unit a la a jap bike. If this clears the drain you need a new alternator, it could also explain boiling the old batteries.

Rambled on a bit, but I hope this helps,

Steve.
 
That points to a bad connection somewhare. Jjh
It's not inconceivable that I have more than one issue. The bike has been down several times. (The last time in the truck. You should have seen the state of the crate!) A loose connection wouldn't surprise me, but I wouldn't have thought it responsible for the battery being dry. We'll work through Steve's diagnostic process, and hopefully get to the bottom of things.
 
It's not inconceivable that I have more than one issue. The bike has been down several times. (The last time in the truck. You should have seen the state of the crate!) A loose connection wouldn't surprise me, but I wouldn't have thought it responsible for the battery being dry. We'll work through Steve's diagnostic process, and hopefully get to the bottom of things.
I meant on the jump leads. Jjh
 
Rather than changing parts (including batteries) ad-hoc I have found this flow chart extremely useful in the past, and I have a very rudimentary knowledge of electrickery.
 
That's a good flow chart, unfortunatly it doesn't apply to a boxer engine as this has a car type alternator with a built in reg/rect unit.
 
The rectifier changes the alternating current produced by your alternator into direct current needed to charge your battery. The regulator limits the voltage to what the battery can handle.

Checking the maximum charge voltage is definitely the first step, easy to do and if good confirms that the alternator is OK. The 1150 uses a car style alternator with all the control circuitry built in.

Motobatt are very good bike batteries but will still be quickly killed if overcharged.
 
That's a good flow chart, unfortunatly it doesn't apply to a boxer engine as this has a car type alternator with a built in reg/rect unit.

My apologies, I last used it on a Honda ...
 
Thanks, guys. I am reading and digesting the info.

The existing battery has now been on charge for a few days and the display was showing it as full. However, this happened before and the battery immediately went flat as soon as we pressed the starter, so we checked the voltage with a volt meter and found it only registered 10.2v. Whatever else may be at fault, the battery simply won't hold a charge. So I have now ordered a new Yuasa 12v 19ah battery, which should be here within two or three days.
 
We did put a volt meter on the battery after we had it on charge for a couple of days. We got a reading of approx 6.5v ... Hooked it up to the car battery to try and jump start the bike. At least the dash lights came up nice and bright for a moment, but one press of the starter button and we were back to square one. The consensus was that it's beyond redemption. At least if we can get the bike running, we can see what, if any, charge the alternator is putting out.

When you say that pressing the starter button results in the lights going dark, it makes me think that a magnet or the gear cover in the starter has come loose, causing a short.

If you put in your new, fully charged battery and the voltage goes flat, expect a starter issue.
 
We did put a volt meter on the battery after we had it on charge for a couple of days. We got a reading of approx 6.5v ....

That battery is really.....really....shagged.
You might get it back to 12v eventually but its lost capacity (imagine its still a 12v battery but now its a tiny little one).
Sounds like you might have an issue thats cooking batteries (overcharging) but dont try and fault find using that battery....its fecked.
I would remove the bike battery and hook up a fully charged car battery to the bike and start from there.
With the bike running, you shouldn't see much more than 14v across the battery.
 


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