Thirteen countries, eight currencies, two weeks...

How many hours did it take to go from Sibiu - Transfagarsan - Campulung - Bran - Fagaras & back to Sibiu ? A long day ?

Planning 4 nights in Sibiu next July & doing the Transalpina, Transfagarsan & Cheia pass, any info greatly appreciated :D
 
Just reread this again & realised I hadn't commented the last time :blast

So, better late than never - well done, great RR & pics :thumb

A couple of comments in no particular order :
As Aidan1150 said above the weather wasn't great on the Transfagarasan at the end of May (2014) -

Nor was it much better on the Transalpina three weeks later -

I'd love to do both of them again in better weather.

markymark - I'm just a touch jealous ! Enjoy.

Some interesting traffic in Romania :eek: -


By missing Bulgaria you missed some nice roads & a stack of interesting monuments -




Differing currencies - we withdrew local money from an ATM, cards worked everywhere, once we were "in country"

Khulu - if I was to give you one piece of advice it would be 'don't just transit through Slovenia'
I've only done the northwestern tip but the area around Lake Bled is lovely, Triglav NP is worth a visit & I'm assured that Mangart viewpoint is worth the effort of the twisty single-track but I've failed to reach the top on both my visits - once due to snow & the second due to a landslide. Third time lucky ?
First attempt :

Stunning view from near the top :


Finally, the 206 through Triglav has been recommended to me by a local rider.
 
I've just noticed you don't accept PMs so that explains the above!

Ooops! Sorry about that - I'll take a look at my profile and put some contact details in it.

It looks as though you have a great ride to enjoy. I'll try not to repeat all of Maxxx's advice, though I will emphasise the "don't do too many miles in a day" guidance and the "try to avoid motorways" bits.

Miles in a day... On some of my trips I've had to do some silly miles (e.g. getting from St.Malo to Lisbon in 2.5 days, avoiding motorway tolls, to get there in time for a conference) and it has meant I've missed things. So much so that the I have gone back another year and done it much slower. Spain is a great example of this. It is possible to blast across it (sorry, I mean traverse the country quite quickly, while always adhering to the appropriate speed limits - more about that later). Following the blast to Lisbon I went back the following year to see all the places I missed, and more, and it was a very different experience.

Avoid the motorways... Motorways/autoroutes/autobahns/etc. are a great way of covering mileage very quickly and (in some cases) a necessary evil (e.g. traversing Milan, east to west...). They can also provide an opportunity to legally exercise the right wrist (e.g. on some stretches of fine German tarmac). However, you'll miss loads if they are used too much, pay tolls and cannot arbitrarily stop to have a look at view/take a photo/have a drink, etc.

Speed limits... I think the expression used in some training environments is "drive to the conditions", which is very good advice. In miles of travel in Europe, what I have noticed is that the most common place for a speed camera or traffic policeman to be placed is a just inside the urban area's speed limit. So diligent awareness of the changes to speed limits when you go through local communities will save a lot of hassle (and, potentially, cash). In some of these countries they don't put a red-circle sign up when you enter the built up area; they expect you to know that urban area have a country-wide common speed limit (as we do when the lamp posts are within so may feet apart...). Slowing down in towns also means you spot the bakery/cafe/ATM/tourist info office and helps you react to the locals zooming out of side turnings...

Cash - As Maxxx says and keep a reasonable supply of Euros. They are the de facto common tourist currency even in those countries that are not part of the Euro zone. Bosnia, for example, uses the "Convertable Marka", but every tourist stop of guest house/B&B will most likely accept the Euro.

Bosnia - A beautiful country and worth spending a little time in. Your UK insurance probably doesn't cover you (same is probably true of Ukraine) and you'll need to buy insurance at the border. It isn't usually expensive (I've done it with car and bike) as you'll only be there a short time. The middle of Mostar and the famous bridge has been carefully restored and Sarajevo is just so full of history. One thing to note - although the countryside is beautiful, if you see a red sign by the side of the road with a skull-and-crossbones on it saying "mines", do take it seriously and stick to the tarmac! The war meant there is plenty of unexploded ordnance around.

Camping - I haven't camped using a motorbike since I was in my twenties (I'm far too soft for that), so I'm looking forward to finding out how you get on. My advice, based on my experience from back then, is to leave the kitchen sink behind. As a family, we've camped in eastern Europe (using a car) and it is possible to stay in some very tranquil places with friendly people, but I've always over-packed and taken stuff I didn't actually need (even back in my early twenties, doing a tour of the British Isles...).

In summary: Have fun!
 
Hi Khulu

Hi Maxxx,

What you did is what I was thinking of doing too! I was intending stopping at a petrol station of a new country and using their ATM for some local cash (if I was intending staying there overnight). Slovenia and BH should just be drive throughs, so that's different (unless I want to add a country fridge magnet to my collection). It's good to know that safe overnight bike parking wasn't a problem anywhere as that's always a concern. I found a hotel late one night last year at Lake Como and parked in a cobbled lane overnight and just took my tank and tube bags with me. Left the panniers full of gear as all was well.
Thanks again for the info.

Much appreciated,

Khulu

Hi Khulu, parking up the bike isn't usually a problem. Usually the places I've stayed have somewhere out of sight of the street. Even on the street it has always been OK, the only worry being the young kids in some places that are just transfixed by the large bike. They just want to sit on it and go "vroom!", so if I'm there I've let them. On only one occasion has someone else been worried enough about my bike to do something about it and that was in Hungary... He was so concerned that he came out of his house with a thick blanket and insisted I let him cover the tank and seat with it. "Please don't worry about it", I said. He politely, but firmly, pushed away my objections and explained through Hungarian (which I don't speak), sounds and sign-language, that if he didn't cover it, the local cats would mince the seat and scratch the tank to near oblivion by morning...
 
How many hours did it take to go from Sibiu - Transfagarsan - Campulung - Bran - Fagaras & back to Sibiu ? A long day ?

Planning 4 nights in Sibiu next July & doing the Transalpina, Transfagarsan & Cheia pass, any info greatly appreciated :D

The round trip took us a long day - and we had some entertaining weather to contend with - a bit too long if anything. The whole loop (all the way down to Pitesti) is somewhere around the 300 mile mark and this would have been just about OK, even with stops for gawping at views, drinks, lunch and photos, had the weather been good. However, if (when...?) I was doing it again, I would cut down the daily mileage and, like you, stay longer in Sibiu, taking more relaxed days.

Having the four nights accommodation booked in Sibiu is a good plan (I liked it as a place) and it lets you ride the bike unloaded, which you'll appreciate on the daytrips. I haven't usually had that luxury on my trips, but it was definitely a good thing when Maxxx and I did it.

Any advice? Go and enjoy it! You'll probably find a lot of bikers on the roads, many (most?) of whom speak English to some a greater or lesser extent and all have their own tales to tell about the roads and are able to tell about the conditions that day. Most of them stick to their side of the road on these popular sections...
 
Just reread this again & realised I hadn't commented the last time :blast

So, better late than never - well done, great RR & pics :thumb
Thank you for adding the photos - It tells me I have plenty of places still to visit! :thumb

Bulgaria remains on my list of places to take the bike... I remain totally gutted that Maxxx and I didn't manage to get to there(due to my carelessness), so I'll need to plan some time for that. Won't be this year though, as I have to use my two weeks to get down to southern Spain and back...
 
Travelling across Europe by land, doing just a few hundred miles a day and open to the elements on a motorcycle, lets you experience the transition of the landscape, the climate and the culture as you go. We kept deliberately off the motorways and went through the towns. The slower you go, the more you see and experience, so we undoubtedly missed much too. The Transfăgărășan Highway was the reason for our trip and that meant going to Romania, which for me was the first time I’d been there. So what did I think about Romania and, in particular, its roads…?

1.It's cheap. For example, whole water melons are 20p each at the road side; Fast food lunch for two including soft drinks can cost less than three pounds; Dinner and drinks can be less than £10 each...

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Maxxx enjoying his roadside lunch... ...and value for money!

2.The infrastructure needs a lot of investment... The road system is a bit like Britain's was at least 40 years ago; Motorways are relatively new but most major roads still go through places rather than round them. What is obvious is that is a huge amount of EU funding going in the infrastructure. It needs it.

3.Many settlements are what we would call ribbon developments and so drag on for ages at 50 KPH or less. Keeping to the speed limits in these places means that you get overtaken by the locals who are happily zooming through at 70-80kph...

4.The worst of the drivers? Courier van drivers without doubt. They are just dangerous, overtaking in places where there is no visibility, forcing oncoming traffic to take evasive action. Generally you take your chances between them and the road works...

5.Don't expect signage, separation and warning protection to UK levels. If they tell you 10 metres in advance you are doing well.

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Roadworks on the Transfăgărășan Highway... ...and just where are the warning signs?

6.The haulage industry dominates the roads. There are an unbelievable number of heavy goods vehicles. Where are they all going to and from and with what, I don’t know, but their every need is available in a small town pull-off (food and drink).

7.On the whole, the professional drivers are very well catered for… …an edge of town motel, or a lay by, provide ample opportunities, with instant gratification for a price...

8.The funniest things on the roads though are the dogs; they just love to chase motorbikes. Even funnier though was the goose that went after Maxxx because he rode too close to her brood..!

9.When driving, you have to be careful of lots of things. The dogs I've mentioned, but also the loose cows (they are left to graze the verges), the mobile haystacks (on top of a horse and cart), plus the ensuing equine road pollution, all providing some real hazards for motorcycles...

10.But the thing Maxxx and I have just not been able to fathom is why there seems to be a Romanian fixation with garden gnomes. They are on sale at roadsides everywhere.

All of which seems to speak of two worlds. There is a big gulf between town and country.

Town is a little dog-eared, but generally like any other European city. Building quality standards decline as you go east, but it is still very civilised. What passes for a local 4* hotel wouldn't really pass muster anywhere else, but when it only costs £40 a night, is clean, friendly and includes breakfast, it really doesn’t matter. Craiova, for example, is a centre for engineering and manufacturing, including big Ford and Cummins plants and has a big university, so in many respects is like any European city.

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Craiova - The main square...

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Another main square, this time in Sibiu...

However, outside the cities, life remains distinctly rural; cows roam, dogs lay down where they feel like, shepherds tend their flocks, people grow produce to feed themselves and sell the excess at the roadside. Horses and carts are the immediately dominant form of agricultural transport. Tractors are there, of course, for the big farms, but the single-strip farmer still keeps the cart… …and the horse… …and never cleans up the road... Not great for two wheels.

Rural villages are most often strip developments lining the main road. Between the road and the houses on either side of the road will be a five to ten metre strip of grass verge, with an open rainwater drain dredged along it. These two strips seem to be common land, available for everyone to graze their cow, their mule, their horse, their chickens, geese, turkeys, etc. During all the miles I've done through these settlements I can think of only one where there was what we'd call a pavement. So if you thought the roads already sounded dangerous, add to that thought that this means to get anywhere the locals must walk on or beside the road. I haven't checked the statistics, but strongly suspect road fatalities are quite high.

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The 606...

Much of the south is appears to be a big grain basket, with vast prairie-like landscapes and some fantastic roads (the 606 was sublime and possibly the best road surface in Romania). The Carpathian mountains are as beautiful as any I've been through. The people are friendly and some of architecture is just, well, you have to see some of the more recent house building to believe it. Bucharest is as choked with traffic as any other capital city and just as manic.

Visit and enjoy, is my advice, but keep your wits about you and don't drop your passport somewhere on a mountain roadside...

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Looking south through the Carpathian Mountains from the Transfăgărășan Highway...

Somewhere out there is my passport...

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as you can see the dogs do bounce!!
 
A pleasure, Roadcraft-Rider.

I should add the post script...

The original plan had been as per the thread title, thirteen countries, eight currencies and all in two weeks. Maxxx, I think, ended up doing a few more miles than I did on the way home (he'll have to tell). For my part I managed eight countries and four currencies, but still within the two week holiday window. As a result of the revised route we missed out Bulgaria, Greece, Albania and Montenegro, while I also missed out Switzerland. I didn't feel so bad about missing out Switzerland as I've been there a number of times, but I was disappointed to miss the others. My total mileage was about 5400 miles. I say "about" because, to be honest, I didn't really register how many miles it was. It was just quite a bit for a two week trip.

What would I do differently next time? Definitely plan a more relaxed schedule, especially when travelling with friends, meaning fewer miles per day, especially when planning some sightseeing that day. Oh... ...and be more careful with my passport...

Meanwhile, back in the UK I had to get a new passport. Having had to get an emergency travel document, and the expense that involves, you have to go through it all again back in the UK. We were heading out of the country again in less than three weeks and I was expecting to get a new passport quickly during the summer peak... Mrs.Chisurz wasn't too pleased that a family holiday risked being, err, "impacted" is the polite way of phrasing it. It was all OK in the end; the new passport arrived in the post the day before we flew out of the country...

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But that holiday is another story and didn't involve motorcycles...
Brilliant ride report!
Shame about the weather in places but you made the most of it anyway, would be boring if it was all sunshine and dry roads wouldn't it? Wouldn't it?
Me and a mate are off to Croatia end of August and your write up has given me a lot of food for thought, you say you've done Croatia numerous times, have you been end of August? If so is the traffic a bit quieter on the coast roads or still as you describe?

Cheers
 
Brilliant ride report!
Shame about the weather in places but you made the most of it anyway, would be boring if it was all sunshine and dry roads wouldn't it? Wouldn't it?
Me and a mate are off to Croatia end of August and your write up has given me a lot of food for thought, you say you've done Croatia numerous times, have you been end of August? If so is the traffic a bit quieter on the coast roads or still as you describe?

Cheers

Croatia - The coast road is nuts throughout the season; you'll need your wits about you whenever you go. The longer distance traffic has been gradually moved to the main motorway, a few miles inland, which is good, but that just means it fills up with all the holidaymakers instead.

If you've never done the coast road then I'd recommend doing at least some of it, just because the views are spectacular. The good news is that the traffic does get lighter as you get further south, away from the major cities and resorts clinging to the edge. Another good wheeze is to do a bit of island hopping or peninsula riding. For example, the coast road south of Senj goes through a place called Prizna, where you'll find signposts to a ferry across to the Pag peninsula - it costs about £3 for a motorbike and you'll find the road much quieter... ...until you rejoin the main coast road.

But don't let me put you off the coast road completely. Carrying on south along the coast there are some lovely places to stop and the views are beautiful. Just don't expect a quick ride...
 


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