09 abs 2 fault unresolved.

Dugster

Dugster

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Hello folks,
I bought an 09 adventure with a few faults that I thought( stupidly) would be an easy repair. One of the faults was an abs warning on the dash. Although the brakes worked fine, the abs side was not tested on the road, I decided to look into fettling it. I purchased the gs911 tool and set about clearing all the faults it showed, unfortunately the abs pump motor was deemed faulty, showing the code 24048, pump motor power supply defective.

After trawling the web to find out about the fault I stripped the abs module and found the motor to be fine by connecting it to a direct supply, along with checking the bearings and brushes whilst I had it apart from the unit. After that failed to fix it, I sent it off to ECU testing and had it rebuilt, even though they deemed it to be working. It still has the same fault! (24048). I have tried to perform the various ABS output tests, but the gs911 is "unable to communicate with control unit" now. I have also gone through the wiring and connections using the Haynes diagrams, nothing obvious there either. The front brake lever operates without any fouling on guard and neither brake switches are active( brake light off until brakes applied).

Has anyone else had this problem, if so did they manage to fix it?

My next course of action will be to bypass the ABS altogether and disable the annoying warning lamp in the clocks, not the ideal situation, but I want to ride the bike at some point.
 
pump motor SUPPLY,problem is maybe the feed to the abs unit,check for
poor earths or corroded chafed wiring
 
Have you checked the front ABS sensor is working correctly? A broken connection may well not show on the GS911.
 
Still no joy!

Update: ABS still not functioning. Checked harness for signs of chafing and obvious damage, non evident. Bled brakes, re-bled brakes, repeat, 2 litres later managed to get some feel in pedal and lever, still shite though and took for a short test. Brakes work, but warning light remained on. http://www.ukgser.com/forums/images/icons/icon8.png

After speaking to the chaps at Motorworks, they said that my model was poorly designed and doomed to failure eventually, so I resigned myself to pulling clocks apart and disabling the warning lamp, however, I remember some info from a thread on here about the wheel sensors causing problems.

I checked the air gap on the front wheel sensor, and found it to be 1.08mm, when it should be between 0.2 and 0.7mm. Clearly outside of tolerances, and no obvious sign of adjustment, so what to do now? I attempted to remove the sensor and it is seized in the fork leg, after breaking off the sensor mounting lug I gave up. I am not certain how the sensor is so far out , but I can't even get it out of the fork leg. Still toying with buying a new sensor in the hope that is the fault, but not if I can't get the correct air gap.

Any input from abs sages?
 
your op said it was a power supply problem?,if so forget the sensor for now concentrate on the fault with the power supply and or motor
 
With a broken ABS sensor lug there is no way the system can work. You need to find a way to remount the sensor. P clip maybe.
 
maybe but it wont cause the power supply fault code,fault find methodically deal with each fault in turn as it presents
 
Have you looked at the You Tube vids on how to replace the motor brushes? It's not beyond a competent home mech and costs very little. A sticking motor brush is the same as disconnecting the motor. The GS-911 wont know the difference.

ABS faults can be diagnosed with a GS-911, but it's unlikely to see any hydraulic problems caused by air bubbles.

My 08 adventure brakes were all easy to bleed. The rear brake even had the fluid level drop too far so I had to bleed it fully. It was no different to bleed than a normal non ABS brake.

The fronts were equally easy to bleed, though I didn't let the fluid level drop. If you cannot get a solid lever it sounds like you have air stuck in the system. Either air is getting sucked in as you attempt to bleed or fine bubbles are not being removed.

Fine bubbles can be shifted by tying back the lever and turning the bars until the reservoir is at the highest point. Leave the lever tied overnight or longer. Sometimes slowly moving the brake lever while watching the open reservoir the will cause bubbles to escape.

Worn master cylinder seals can suck in air. Don't let the lever mobcap too quickly and consider replacing the seals.
 
autogs said:
your op said it was a power supply problem?,if so forget the sensor for now concentrate on the fault with the power supply and or motor
Click to expand...

According to gs911 it was a power supply fault. I have had abs rebuilt by ECU testing, the same code pops up. 24048.
 
Bendy toy said:
Have you looked at the You Tube vids on how to replace the motor brushes? It's not beyond a competent home mech and costs very little. A sticking motor brush is the same as disconnecting the motor. The GS-911 wont know the difference.

ABS faults can be diagnosed with a GS-911, but it's unlikely to see any hydraulic problems caused by air bubbles.

My 08 adventure brakes were all easy to bleed. The rear brake even had the fluid level drop too far so I had to bleed it fully. It was no different to bleed than a normal non ABS brake.

The fronts were equally easy to bleed, though I didn't let the fluid level drop. If you cannot get a solid lever it sounds like you have air stuck in the system. Either air is getting sucked in as you attempt to bleed or fine bubbles are not being removed.

Fine bubbles can be shifted by tying back the lever and turning the bars until the reservoir is at the highest point. Leave the lever tied overnight or longer. Sometimes slowly moving the brake lever while watching the open reservoir the will cause bubbles to escape.

Worn master cylinder seals can suck in air. Don't let the lever mobcap too quickly and consider replacing the seals.
Click to expand...

I suspect the brake system is letting air in somewhere, but without any signs of fluid loss It is proving difficult to find. I may end up rebuilding the entire set up yet. thanks for your input.
 
Dugster said:
According to gs911 it was a power supply fault. I have had abs rebuilt by ECU testing, the same code pops up. 24048.
Click to expand...

then this is where you need to concentrate,dont assume the "rebuilt ecu " is still fault free either
 
The hydraulics are under pressure throughout so any leak will be clear. The one exception is at the master cylinder seals. When these are wearing they can suck air as the lever is released. Normally there is enough pressure inside the cylinder to keep the seal pressed into place but the pressure drops while bleeding so air can get sucked in.

Dont release the lever too fast and try the slow pump action to see if micro bubble escape into the reservoir.

However, I do not believe that air in the hydraulics will be seen by the ABS ECU. You could have the perfect hard lever feel and still have ABS warnings.
 
I had a similar fault.
I found that the 12v abs motor brushes were tight in the little brass wrapped holder. I filled off 0.2mm and it has been good as gold. Search the web for more details.
 
Even if the ABS motor has to be taken off the valve block, its a purely mechanical job. The ECU gets into a whole different world of pain and misery so why bother when there are easier thing to work on that can generate the same issues.

Does anyone know if the ABS block and motor are the same as used on many cars. I cant's see BMW reinventing such a thing.
 
As has been mentioned, the pump motor power supply is in the fault list,
Having no communication with abs control unit would suggest a supply or earth to the unit is the issue,
Checking wiring via pin configuration at the multiplug is conclusive,
Continuity tests using wiring diagram is time consuming, but necessary
Roamer
 
Bendy toy said:
Even if the ABS motor has to be taken off the valve block, its a purely mechanical job. The ECU gets into a whole different world of pain and misery so why bother when there are easier thing to work on that can generate the same issues.

Does anyone know if the ABS block and motor are the same as used on many cars. I cant's see BMW reinventing such a thing.
Click to expand...

Quite a few cars use the same motor/ECU as on the GS, take a look on eBay for Fiesta ABS pump and you'll find what you need....
 
DervMan said:
Quite a few cars use the same motor/ECU as on the GS, take a look on eBay for Fiesta ABS pump and you'll find what you need....
Click to expand...

So the Fiesta and R1200 ABS units are effectively interchangeable. Good stuff.

Does anyone know of a car engine spark coil that will fit the R1200. £80 per coil is silly money when car coils can be 1/2 that for a set of four.

Same applies with O2 sensors. Are the generics suitable to the GS engine? This http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-GENUI...586163?hash=item3a8337f6f3:g:FgAAAOSwAL9UkuCW is a fraction of the cost that Motorrad want for BMW branded O2 sensors.
 
I was simply looking for a replacement motor, didn't need one in the end as lubing the bush sorted mine out. I'd be surprised if the entire unit could be swapped.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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