R100GSPD clutch stiffness

Bone Dry

Member
UKGSer Subscriber
Joined
Sep 29, 2004
Messages
37
Reaction score
0
Location
South Bucks
This is a low mileage bike that gets occasional summer use. I've had it for many years with no problems.
When cold the clutch is fine. But as the bike warms up the clutch gets very stiff and graunchy. Almost unrideable. Any ideas??
I'm thinking worn thrust bearing.
Any thoughts appreciated.
 
Or clutch actuating rod/lever and/or associated bearings/seals - as the box heats up this can happen as clearances reduce.....this area gets virtualy no maintentce and can seize over time especially if its only an ocasional ride.

If it was the thrust bearing it would (usually anyway) be bad either hot or cold IME
 
Clutch

That's caused by the brown plastic/Bakelite-type bearing housing situated just behind the rubber clutch lever boot on the gearbox. After a few years these tend to swell slightly when hot. Remedy is to replace with a new one (expensive) or have a couple of thous' taken off on a lathe. When replacing, do so with gear oil not grease.
 
You can fit the early ball bearing arrangement which is much cheaper but fiddlier to fit.. A session in the vice with some emery paper usually sorts it out.
 
Thanks guys. I've oiled all the visible joints and not much difference.
This plastic bearing shell sounds interesting. Presumably I have to take the box out to do it. Once out, is it straightforward??
I have basic mechanical skills and can have a go, but don't want to take the box apart in any way.
 
That's caused by the brown plastic/Bakelite-type bearing housing situated just behind the rubber clutch lever boot on the gearbox. After a few years these tend to swell slightly when hot. Remedy is to replace with a new one (expensive) or have a couple of thous' taken off on a lathe. When replacing, do so with gear oil not grease.

:thumb2 Spot on.

You can fit the early ball bearing arrangement which is much cheaper but fiddlier to fit..

And much more reliable.

This plastic bearing shell sounds interesting. Presumably I have to take the box out to do it.

No need to remove the gearbox. It's a very very simple and quick job
Remove the actuating arm and bellows on the back of the gearbox and the thrust bearing can be pulled out of the back.
 
Nice pun, like it. The name refers to my preferred riding conditions.

I've now got the bearing out and will replace it.

I'll make sure everything is greased up as I reassemble.
 
Same problem here, lovely smooth clutch when setting off, but when warmed up it gets stiff and jerky. Nice little job for a rainy evening.
 
Same problem here, lovely smooth clutch when setting off, but when warmed up it gets stiff and jerky. Nice little job for a rainy evening.

Took the bearing carrier out, measured about 28.9mm which is above the specified 28.7mm, sanded down to 28.6mm, refitted with a light smear of grease and greased the bearing. Alls good now, lovely smooth clutch no matter how hot the engine/gearbox. Its a bit fiddly getting it all back together, long fingers help as well as slipping some fingers through gap between frame crossmember and collector box to hold bits in place. If only all jobs were this easy. BTW no need to adjust cable at bar lever just push the actuation arm back enough and cable slips out.
 
Reading this with interest as my old banger locked up it's clutch release last time out - which made getting home the last few miles very intersteing with the clutch staying engaged :eek:

Will go and look at pulling as much of the release mechanism as possible apart for a rub down and lube.

Will be gutted if I have to pull the whole box out.

ps - was running perfectly till shortly after I tried a few standing starts while playing with the GPS speedo gadget thing that can measure 0-60 time and speed plus other things :)
 


Back
Top Bottom