USA Mountains & Canyons 2016 - The Pillion Perspective

PMVern

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So, I have been nominated by my fellow travellers to write the ride report for this trip, and it will be from a slightly different perspective to the usual ride(r) reports … the back seat. I like to think it was thought I’d have more pictures than they did as I was just sat there enjoying the views, whilst they were having such a hard time riding their bikes, but it’s more likely that I was just more organised than them & other than Chris, actually knew where we were going most of the time!! From my perspective, writing this report saves me having to spend hours with Bill (Timaloy), telling him all about the trip….

It all began in late 2014 as we collected our bikes after the fantastic Pacific North West trip (which was our first ever trip to the US – our once in a lifetime trip for Paul’s 50th birthday ) and I was suffering post-holiday blues …. I had been perusing the USA map and reading my guide books reminiscing on where we’d been and looking at all the other places I’d like to go to one day, if we could afford it…maybe I could persuade Paul to go again for my 50th birthday? (in four years’ time he might have forgotten how much he hates long haul flying??).

Anyway, as folks were sorting out their bikes, I mentioned to Chris I’d been looking at the map and I thought there were a lot of great places and National Parks to visit in a relatively small area (for the US anyway) around the Canyonlands of Utah. He agreed and said that he’d had thoughts of doing a trip in that area one day…. Anyway, I thought no more of it until sometime in 2015 when I saw a plug for an upcoming Unchained event - the ‘Moab Canyon’ trip. ‘Great!’ I thought, and I could use my air miles from the PNW trip! However, Paul had not forgotten how much he hates long haul flying and was less than enthusiastic…

I’m sure it must be something of a rarity for a pillion having to bully her ‘driver’ in to take her on a mega bike trip? Anyway, I thought I’d get assistance and enlisted Bill’s help, but unfortunately he couldn’t come on this trip as he already had plans for 2016 as it was his wife’s big birthday that year, and that would not involve a bike trip…but he did offer to lend me his bike to go on (I can ride, but prefer to relax and look at the scenery when on holiday). So once I presented this option to Paul & said I’d go without him, it did stir him into agreeing to go (albeit with much whinging about how much he hated long haul flying …)

And so, fast forward to June 2016 and our bike looked like this, just days before it was due to be shipped! :eek:

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The pre-trip service included a few unexpected items to say the least (a shaft drive rebuild for one…) anyway, Mikeyboy worked his magic and the bike was ready to roll just hours before he went to Spain and 2 days before we were due to deliver it down to Chris in Pershore ready for shipping. Nothing like a bit of pre-trip testing before a big trip :eek:
Anyway, we made Pershore without any drama and our bike was loaded into the container along with those belonging to Keith, Dermot & Amanda (everyone else that was going on the trip were doing the Alaska trip first and so their bikes were already en-route to Anchorage).

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So, fast forward 6 weeks and it is Thursday 11th August we are ready to set off to join the bike and Paul is looking forward to several hours on the train/ underground to get to Heathrow followed by the 11hour flight to San Francisco….. I booked First Class tickets on the train (for a huge £15 each), so that he could console himself with free food & drink and be happy (for the first hour at least…)
We were travelling out on one of Virgin’s new Dreamliners which are billed as being more spacious and as our Airmiles had contributed to a Premium Economy flight, we’d have access to the new ‘wander wall’ which has an endless supply of snacks & drinks , which again I hoped would help ease the ‘long haul’ pain. (In reality it was more like a shelf than a wall)

The flight went relatively smoothly, the one exception being when Paul managed to fling his glass of red wine over my lap….and so my Dreamliner turned in to Pantyliner as I was forced to sit under my quality Virgin blankie in my only pair of clean pants for 2 days! (we were only travelling with hand luggage and weren’t due to be reunited with the bike and luggage and hence any change of clothes until Saturday) I was not happy to say the least :mad: I’d planned for us to spend the next day seeing the highlights of San Francisco, whilst we were in the vicinity, and then catch the bus to Santa Rosa on Friday evening. Whilst sitting trouser-less under my blanket, hoping my trousers would dry out in the 5 hours before we landed, we had some great views of Greenland…

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We finally landed at SFO around 7pm (my trousers were almost dry, although sporting a distinct Shiraz odour) and after spending an hour getting through security courtesy of Homeland’s most cheerful employees, caught the BART train into the city. The only thing of note about the journey was that a guy boarded with a shoe box full of weed so strong that it sedated the whole carriage. … as it was about 3am UK time, we were now in danger of sleeping through our stop! Anyway, a tortuous 30mins later, we arrived at Powell Street station, where I immediately felt at home stinking of wine and weed…….in a slightly detached state, we staggered to our hotel a couple of blocks away arriving about 10.30pm. Paul went straight to bed whilst I rinsed my trousers out…..
 
I should point out at this point that Paul loves a City break almost as much as long haul flying, but I was determined to see some of the highlights of San Francisco this time and luckily we were blessed as the San Francisco bay fog cleared and rewarded my perseverance with a nice sunny day.

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So after a whistle stop walking tour out of China town into the financial district,

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wondered if this is what Shakin' Stevens was singing about....

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We took a streetcar ride up and down the streets of San Francisco to Fisherman’s Wharf

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and Pier 39 to see the sea lions...

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Apparently it's only the males that hang around here....they are very noisy, wrestling, fighting & sleeping....oh, and they really smell bad...

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We then had a quick stroll up Lombard Street on our way to catch the Golden Gate Transport 101 bus to Santa Rosa. Lombard Street may claim to be the crookedest street in San Fransico - well, it was certainly the most congested.

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The bus was quite full and so we stumbled down to the back seat with our bags and prepared for the final stage of our journey. Feeling relieved that we’d made it this far without further incident, I started to relax and look forward to our arrival in Santa Rosa….however, as we approached the Golden Gate Bridge, the bus stopped and I watched some hobo with a massive rucksack and his dog haul himself off the verge and stagger towards the bus. Now, another thing about Paul is that he does have a habit of attracting the unsolicited attentions of the sort of people you really don’t want to spend any time with…he has one of those faces that just seem to say ‘Hello! Come & talk to me’. So, as expected, he staggered down to join us on the back seat of the bus with his dog & his previously unspotted crazy girlfriend. True to form, they had some cans of drink which were duly topped up with whiskey and by the time we arrived in Santa Rosa 2 hours later, they were getting feisty! I felt sorry for the dog as it was actually tied to the guy’s arm and was getting yanked about a bit as he got more animated…..ironically it was called Tramp!

So, we finally arrived at The Hillside Inn at about 5pm, found our room and some of our future travelling companions – Keith, Peter & Symon. Chris turned up about an hour later and we had a catch up chat over beers & fine wine in Symons hallway. Dermot turned up later that evening, we went to the Yeti Indian restaurant next door before retiring to bed for an early night as were still adjusting to the time difference.
 
Saturday morning arrived and Paul & Dermot were keen to be reunited with their bikes after 6 weeks apart and we made our way to Santa Rosa BMW to collect them that morning courtesy of Chris’s cousin’s truck. As Amanda wasn’t arriving until Saturday evening, I had to ride her bike back to the hotel (so I do come in useful as a back-up rider occasionally too). Paul asked Chris if he’d take us out that afternoon for a local ride out to get in the swing of things, and not needing any excuse to demonstrate his knowledge of Tea & Cake shops, he duly agreed.

It was a scorching, hot California afternoon and we had a ride out along some twisty woodland roads up into the hills towards the coast.
Once we emerged from the woods we found we were above the cloud which was clinging to the pacific ocean.

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We descended towards the coast, dropping through the cloud and scrubbing about 20 [SUP]0[/SUP] off the temperature to a chilly 15 degrees! I was cold and regretting only having brought my Air Suit at this point...

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We then arrived at one of Chris’s favourite cake shops at Jenner by the sea and a lovely view out to the pacific ocean.

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The real tragedy was that they’d actually sold out of cake! So we had to console ourselves with cookies instead…:augie
 
Crackin' start to a ride report. Wow! And awesome pictures. Bring it on and Ride safe. :thumb.
 
Nice one Sam. Thanx for taking the time to post. :thumb2
 
Sam YOU have a nice way with words ,, enjoying your R report :thumb2 AND it was really good to have your company on the trip :thumb2:clap
Keep it coming (as and when :thumb2)
 
I've just had another look at this on the big computer in my tea break. Terrific pictures. :thumb2
 
Trip Day 1 - Sunday 14th August

So, departure day arrives and we leave Santa Rosa to cover some 250 miles up to Eureka. We head out on through the Sonoma Vineyards where I saw a couple of the local red headed turkey vultures sat with their wings spread out sunning themselves on the vineyard posts. It was a sunny start and the temperature was rising.

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We then took the scenic, twisty Skagg Springs Road through the scorched California hills. It was devoid of traffic and so a good warm up ride for the day.

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Things cooled down as we reached Stewart Point on the Pacific Coast highway as the low cloud rolled in from the ocean.

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The coffe shop was full, so we had a quick leg-stretch and carried on up the coast.
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The cloud did occasionally roll out and we got some nice ocean views.

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But generally, it remained rather cool riding along the edge of the cloud, even though the sun could been seen shining away inland, just over the hills. We finally found lunch at a little café next to the railroad in Fort Bragg. The decorative Californian Western train trundled past as we were about to leave.....on some sort of trip to the seaside I guess?

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The afternoon was spent riding the Avenue of the Giants in the sunshine before heading north and back towards the coast to Eureka, which didn’t fail to live up to its reputation as one of the coldest towns in California.

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Having stayed in Eureka on the last trip, we knew we could warm up at the great Lost Coast Brewery, just up the road from the hotel.

There are some great murals on the the buildings in downtown Eureka, including this one which is apparently the largest mural in Northern California! There are lots more that we didn't see though http://redwoods.info/showrecord.asp?id=3523

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I thought the Oregon coast was a bit disappointing, but the Avenue of the Redwoods was quite impressive

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Eureka was a bit of a toilet IMHO, but Bandon the following night was quite nice
 
Trip Day 2 – Monday 15th August

As we left the Brewery last night, we’d seen some signs point to ‘historic downtown’ and having visited Eureka before, and not having a particularly high opinion of the place as anything special…a fishing port, shrouded in fog, a bit cold and damp (not unlike Grimsby actually…), Amanda & I decided to petition Chris to see if we could take an alternative route out of town, and drive through ‘historic downtown’, and although a bit foggy, and a dodgy start, it was worth the effort.

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Apparently Eureka is historically important for its Victorian architecture.

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We came across this place which looked straight out of the Addams Family….but apparently it's a private members club!

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Having now looked up the Ingomar Club, it has quite a history and is well worth a 5 min diversion from this report. http://www.ingomar.org/

We weren’t the only ones enjoying a motorcycle tour of downtown Eureka. These two girls pulled up alongside us at the lights.

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So, we carried on up the gloomy Pacific coast highway for a few more miles before turning off inland towards the sunshine,eventually finding fuel & breakfast at Willow Creek. We bumped into a few local GS riders at the fuel station who handed out their BMW Club of America stickers to all of us – well, all except Pete (a man who likes a sticker or two…) who was so disappointed that they’d run out of stickers, one of the guys rode all the way home and fetched him one! Stickers were duely swiftly stuck to panniers…

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Now I didn’t realise this at the time, but this is Bigfoot country & Willowcreek is home to the Bigfoot museum, complete with 'Bigfoot footprint' casts and the Bigfoot study centre, where all the sightings are recorded!:eek: http://bigfootcountry.net/bigfoot-exhibit

I just thought it was a good name for a diner…

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Then we came across this guy further down the road…

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Our route took us along the deserted Highway 96 following the Trinity and Klamath rivers. The temperature continued to climb into the mid 30’s as we rode along and, it’s fair to say, the heat took some getting used to after the cold start to the day!

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We crossed a few bridges...

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We passed through Happy Camp and brokered Scouse/Manc relations....

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Everyone was happy...:bounce1

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Finally, we rode into Klamath Falls and ended the day with the famous Sgt.Bilco BBQ - he certainly knows how to cook a good steak!:clap

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And John knows how to make best use of his panniers...:beerjug:

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Thanks for posting the story up to now and also thanks for taking time out of your trip to be taking the pictures for "our" enjoyment :thumby::thumby:
 
Trip Day 3 – Tuesday 16th August

So today we are to re-visit Crater Lake… We were supposed to see it on our previous trip in 2014 but due to rain of biblical proportions, the first for 3 months, we didn’t even attempt to visit it and so we were hoping for better things today. We were not disappointed….
The road up around the crater gave stunning views far into the distance

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The first stop at the Phantom Ship overlook gave us our first views of the lake.

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The lake was so still, a perfect mirror pool, it was difficult to tell where the land ended and the water began.

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There was a downside to the lack of wind though…. the mosquitoes soon sussed our arrival, and it was time to beat a hasty retreat and climb higher up the cater to see the lake in its’ entirety.

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Apparently it’s quite unusual to see Crater Lake ripple free, in windless conditions.

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It wasn’t long before someone had to go and spoil it with a boat trip across the lake.

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We then headed back down through the park, grabbing breakfast (and stickers) at Mazama Village before heading south back into California to Burney, our overnight destination.
It was difficult to cope with the Oregon traffic at times….

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The minor highways were a bit dusty

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Mount Shasta loomed in the distance.

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Stopped for a quick rest in the shade (which was minimal) – the temperature was in the mid 30s again.

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The traffic in California was worse than Oregon.

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Then, with 25 miles or so to go, we hit a massive thunderstorm, the newly surfaced highway turned white and started foaming...my pilot was not happy with this at all :( The temperature then plummeted by 20 degrees to rise again 10 minutes later to a scorching 40+ as we entered Burney. Time for ice cream!:clap
 
Aha! So that's what Crater Lake looks like. I did wonder.

Great pics again.
 
Aha! So that's what Crater Lake looks like. I did wonder.

Great pics again.

I've seen Crater lake 6 or 7 times but had never seen it so still as on this trip. Absolutely stunning and a very moving place to be early on the morning. There is something about Crater Lake.......!!
 


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