Buying a used RT? what to look out for?

Santa-2512

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May be going to look at a couple of RT's over the next couple of weeks ,

What problem areas should i be aware of, and how can i check for them?

I know there were a couple of recalls rear hub etc, so that's a start.

How can you check for wear in the rear hub, and whats is considered ok / acceptable?

Iv seen a couple of example at a dealers, but obviously they carry a dealer premium.

One is low mileage high spec, with a high price, the other has a higher mileage but the same price.

Is it worth paying over the top, or are dealer prices accurate?


Mart
 
I believe BMW dealers now offer a 2 year warranty on their second hand bikes, which goes some way to justify their higher prices. However I think haggling with them is always worth doing. You are in a strong position as you hold the cash and what have you got to lose.

As for faults, I believe the 2010 on, Camheads, were pretty much sorted. The pre 2010 bikes have fuel strips which fail so you end up with no fuel gauge. I would personally avoid pre 2007 bikes as they will have the problematic servo ABS.

Corrosion on the front engine casing, forks, wheels and final drive is worth looking out for. Otherwise they are great all round bikes, reasonably easy to handle with decent performance and fuel economy...
 
avoid the pre 2007 models. they have servo assisted brakes. ie no brakes unless the engine is running, expensive to fix when they fail.

how about these?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-R1200RT-/152281558211

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2008-08-BMW-R1200RT-ABS-/152176333430

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-R-1200-RT-SE-2008-24-MTH-WARRANTY-/322292591246

lots of ex-police ones around, they are cheaper, but the panniers are smaller, no rear seat, electrics sometimes different and they may have been worked hard
 
I was looking to pay £3,000-£40,00k for one back in july, but i upped my budget to £5,000 (to avoid servo models) and I got a 2007 model with 2 year BMW warranty for £5,300, 30,000 miles.
 
go for the silver one. it has cruise control, which is bloody brilliant

and the silver one has heated grips, the £400 BMW top box and engine bars
 
TBH,

Thats all i want at this stage, the other would be nice but carrys almost another 2k premium.

Any ideas how to check the rear wheel bearings for play? is it the same as a car, rock at 12/6 - 3/9 and feel for play? whats acceptable ??

mart
 
I bought one with 8,000 miles on it,

a 2005 model and 18 months old when I bought it.
It now has over 50,000 on it, and the only thing done to it was to replace the fuel pump controller at around 2 years ownership.
In that time, other than annual oil and filter changes, it has had nothing done to it.
It hits the rev limiter regularly.
No servo failures, no brake fluid changes, no rear hub oil changes, nothing. Not even a good cleaning. It gets hit every November with a powerhose before oil change and layup.
For those who tell you of all the early models faults and foibles, this is the alternative viewpoint, but what would I know?
Myke
 
This should be the time of year to get a deal. Trade is slow as a lot of people won't be riding when it gets cold and wet. Good luck with your search.
I bought a 2011 RT SE bike with highish mileage 38000 last year. Now coming up for 53000, I have had the final drive rebuilt by Overland & Classic, more as a precaution as I could just about feel play. For me the higher spec bike was worth the money.
 
This should be the time of year to get a deal. Trade is slow as a lot of people won't be riding when it gets cold and wet. Good luck with your search.
I bought a 2011 RT SE bike with highish mileage 38000 last year. Now coming up for 53000, I have had the final drive rebuilt by Overland & Classic, more as a precaution as I could just about feel play. For me the higher spec bike was worth the money.

How did you detect / feel play...
The last thing i want to do is stump up for a bike, and then have to get the final drive refurbed

Mart
 
How did you detect / feel play...
The last thing i want to do is stump up for a bike, and then have to get the final drive refurbed

Mart

Grab the rear wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock and check for any play. If there is any get someone to apply the rear brake.....if the play disappears it's the bevel box bearing....if the plays still there then it's the paralever bearings.
To my mind there should be no play whatsoever in the final drive assembly.
 
There will be an element of play as there is a tolerance I can not remember what it is


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
I bought a 2007 ex police dirt cheap with 40k on it, I knew it needed a new clutch so that cost me £60 and final drive needed doing so got a new one, now done 80k and still going strong so don't worry about ex police bikes as yes there used but if they need anything they get it.
 
I bought a 2007 ex police dirt cheap with 40k on it, I knew it needed a new clutch so that cost me £60 and final drive needed doing so got a new one, now done 80k and still going strong so don't worry about ex police bikes as yes there used but if they need anything they get it.

How much was it to do the clutch & final drive?

mart
 
Clutch cost £60 as I did it all myself and the final drive was the expensive bit as I knew I was going to do a lot of miles so i bought a new one which was the best part of £1000 so someone will get a good deal when I sell it.

If you need a clutch doing Im sure that we can come to some arrangement.
 

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I believe BMW dealers now offer a 2 year warranty on their second hand bikes, which goes some way to justify their higher prices. However I think haggling with them is always worth doing. You are in a strong position as you hold the cash and what have you got to lose.

As for faults, I believe the 2010 on, Camheads, were pretty much sorted. The pre 2010 bikes have fuel strips which fail so you end up with no fuel gauge. I would personally avoid pre 2007 bikes as they will have the problematic servo ABS.

Corrosion on the front engine casing, forks, wheels and final drive is worth looking out for. Otherwise they are great all round bikes, reasonably easy to handle with decent performance and fuel economy...


2010 bike have fuel strips, or in the case of mine 'several' because of them failing consistently.

Yet another (4th) to be fitted at service time next spring. :rolleyes:
 


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