690 Enduro rear wheel nut

WindyChuffer

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Whats the reason for KTM making the rear wheel axle nut from alloy as opposed to steel? Have fooked the threads on mine, and now the bike is unusable until I replace the nut.

Also, any reason why its a dome nut? Could I swap it for a flat (steel) nut?
 
No not over tightened.

The axle didnt want to budge, so I put the nut back on a few turns and gently tapped it to break the friction lock on the axle. Standard stuff. Except the alloy nut couldn't take it as it is made of cheese.

If this had happened on the trails, i'd have been fooked...
 
Friction lock :D

Plastic hammer on the spindle at worst, properly maintained it should push out easily :)

Use a steel nut and you run the risk of wrecking the threads on the axle.
 
How would steel nut ruin threads? According to ktm mechanic alloy nut is for weight only. I will take weight over cheese any day. Will source a steel one.

Maintaining a spindle? Whats that?
 
How would steel nut ruin threads? According to ktm mechanic alloy nut is for weight only. I will take weight over cheese any day. Will source a steel one.

Maintaining a spindle? Whats that?

Assuming they're serious questions.......:D

If you managed to wreck the thread on the nut, better that than the spindle because that's what will happen if you start hammering that since it's a fine thread. The nuts aren't cheese.
Maintenance, clean, smooth and lightly greased so it slides through the spacers which are also 'maintained' :nenau
All mechanics have an opinion :D
:beerjug:

Anyway, you asked for advise ...... go get a steel nut :beerjug:
 
Push fit spindles are happy spindles, then a coating of moly-slip on assembly and you should be able to push it out next time the wheel needs removing.
Alloy nuts are fine, I used the KTM part on my X-Challenge, no problem.
 
Serious questions from someone who hasn't done much spannering since car tinkering as a teen... However am well used to changing tyres / brake pads on a GS; thats super easy compared to a tubed bike. I struggle not to nip tubes with the levers but thats a different problem. Hence why I much prefer tubeless or mousses. Taking wheels off a GS an putting them back on again is childs play compared to "proper" trail bikes. The rear on the 690 is a bitch to get back on, especially compared to a 300EXC.

As for nuts and bolts - Steel on steel seems like a much better proposition to me; more robust on the trails and less prone to ham fisted nobs like me.

Now to Moly Slip - they sell loads of stuff....http://www.molyslip.co.uk/ - what in particular? Or shall I just use some waterproof grease?
 


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