LED bulbs

I have no experience of the sort of heat this type of LED bulb generates, so I'm considering running the dip beam bulb without the back cover on so i can feel the heatsink after the bulb has been on for while and then decide whether to fit the cover.
I'm gonna leave the other cover on the main beam though, as that won't be left on for extended periods.
I've found some nice H7 'extension' leads on ebay for a couple of quid. Male one end and female the other. Planning on cutting and threading them through the hole I made in the covers and then soldering them back together so I can get the power out to the LED drivers.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322232503223?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
Mine got pretty warm on dip beam. Nothing like a normal bulb but heat and electronics don't mix.
The headlight can't be stripped down so no way I wanted to risk crap getting inside. A few dry days to check it out but nothing more for me.
The perfect power fix would be an inline 3 pin connector to fit the loom headlight plug. I solder spliced into the loom and tucked the OEM H7 connectors inside the light casing.
Be sure there's enough beam angle adjustment. Mine definitely set the beam a bit high. I'm on lowest angle adjustment and dip beam is only just about ok.

Sent somehow.
 
Just a thought,

Did you apply any thermal compound between the LED unit & the heatsink?

Dont know what temps your generating on your heatsink, but anything that brings it down would be good.

Bendy, can you send me a pic of you solder / splice setup please, i'd like to understand what youve done

Mart :)
 
I have thermal compound ready to apply when the heatsinks are fitted for the last time after I've sorted out the power connectors.

Bendy, hadn't considered that way of powering the bulbs, do you know what those 3 pin connectors are called and if they're easily available?

Oneplus 2 = my phone
 
I didn't use heat sink compound as there's already a large threaded contact area. But sounds sensible.
The wiring was to simply pare back insulation and solder on a branch. Insulated with self amalgamation tape. There is not enough wire length for heat shrink sleeves.

The earth was awkward with two H7 connectors to go to the one loom earth wire.
A proper compatible inline connector would be ideal.


Sent somehow.
 
I wanted to use a connection block but the wire length to the OEM headlight connector is just too short. The other option would be to unwind more of the loom tape but that was more stripping down than I wanted to do.


Sent somehow.
 
Don't need to with that link I posted, it's a male connector that will fit the loom... just make to length with 2 female H7 connectors on other end and plug into the drivers....let there be light!

Oneplus 2 = my phone
 
That's just the thing I was looking for.
Plug straight into the OEM loom connector and the job's a biscuit.
I tried some google searches but had no idea what to ask it for.
White = main beam
Yellow = dip beam
Brown = earth.​
Very literal those Germans. :)

Sent somehow.
 
Could you post piccys of the wiring splices etc,

I'm ham fisted as is lol,

If i've got something to refer too at they say


Mart
 
Santa-2512 said:
Could you post piccys of the wiring splices etc,

I'm ham fisted as is lol,

If i've got something to refer too at they say


Mart
Click to expand...
Yeah, wiring/soldering isn't my strong point either.
I'll take some pics when the connectors arrive.
I also need to decide where I'm gonna mount the drivers.
And I've also got some cheap Chinese U7 spots to fit on the crash bars and need to find a place for 2 four pin relays too.
Gonna be a bit crowded behind the headlight

Oneplus 2 = my phone
 
LED just plug into existing connections for Head lamp and main beam.


Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 
lawvar said:
LED just plug into existing connections for Head lamp and main beam.


Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Yes, but those connectors are inside the headlight unit so,if you are concerned about keeping the elements out of the unit, you need some way of getting the power out to the LED driver H7 connections. If you use the 3pin male plug I linked you can power the LED's direct from the bikes loom and leave the legacy connectors tucked inside. Much neater job and easy to put back to standard.
 
Sgt.Cupid said:
Yes, but those connectors are inside the headlight unit so,if you are concerned about keeping the elements out of the unit, you need some way of getting the power out to the LED driver H7 connections. If you use the 3pin male plug I linked you can power the LED's direct from the bikes loom and leave the legacy connectors tucked inside. Much neater job and easy to put back to standard.
Click to expand...

That connector is the perfect fix. Shame I didn't manage to find one before I broke out the soldering iron.

My drivers have a plastic loop on each side. I hung them horizontally on the inside of the beak frame with a zip tie to hang it down from the top tube and another to strap it to the bottom tube. They are not pulled too tight to avoid cracking the loops.
 
Looking for 60 mm grommets, something heat resistant that would keep the worst of the elements out of the headlight unit and allow the heat sink to be open to the air and came up with this idea....
a3ee856aa94689f0b1eab64270a6180f.jpg


I cut a disc out of a silicone cake baking tray (don't tell the missus) it can stand high temps and is flexible enough to allow the bulb to move a bit. And I'm gonna put some grease on the lip behind it to help it stay sealed.

Oneplus 2 = my phone
 
I used 60 mm blanking grommets ebay no 291487270270.
Photo on post #48 . They have been on for 16 months without any problems.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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