SteveJ
Registered user
Every so often I like to put myself outside of my European comfort zone. In the autumn of 2016 I decided that Vietnam would fit the bill. Being in my mid-50s, I, like many others of that certain age, were brought-up in an era of American-made Vietnam war movies such as Platoon, Apocolyse Now, Full Metal Jacket and the like; all of which made the US look like the victors. Initially the aim of my trip was to visit some of the iconic place-names which history put on the world map, Khe Sanh, Saigon and Hamburger Hill to name but a few. My itinerary was starting to look more of a battlefield tour than a holiday.
Leaving behind the onset of a UK winter for warmer climes is a pleasant thought which always fills me with joy, so this more than compensated for the 15-hour flight from Cardiff to Hanoi (via Amsterdam and Kuala Lumpur). Within a few days of landing in a sunny, 25.c Hanoi I'd managed to rent an XR400 (with an electric start) from Phung's Motor Cycles. Finding a motor bike to rent in Hanoi, the city of a million mopeds, is a bit like buying veg at your local supermarket, you're spoiled for choice; though most are around the 125/250cc mark. The XR400 is considered a big bike in Vietnam.
Hanoi is a city steeped in history. The base of the Communist-backed North Vietnam government during the American war, it received much attention from B-52 bombers, but still holds some striking architecture from its past, both from its pre and post French colonialism days. Talking of B-52s, there is even the remains of one in a lake near the city centre, part of its fuselage visible above the water. There are a host of museums to browse and parks to stroll through. Without 'wheels' navigating the city is best done on the back of an Xe om (motor bike taxi); Xe om literally means 'bike hug' and can be found on every street corner. Top-tip: agree a price before you hop on the back. It's also a great way to gradually introduce yourself to Vietnamese road users and their habits. Don't be surprised to see whole families, including 'babes in arms' mounted on a C90. There is hardly any car traffic in Hanoi, so you won't see any traffic jams.
Week 1. Hanoi to Sapa
Leaving the chaos of the Hanoi traffic and it's 7 million inhabitants, the roads took me north out to the suburbs and eventually to the countryside. Being Welsh I usually associate mountains and green landscapes with rain and my pre-packed orange survival cape did a good job of keeping me dry. NW Vietnam has spectacular scenery, but there is a price to pay; even in the so-called 'dry season' it is prone to rain and low cloud. My route to Sapa took me via the Khau Pha Pass. I did manage to see the lower area of the Pass near Tu Le, but as the road gained altitude, the cloud base lowered. This only lasted for an hour or so, before I re-entered the land of blue skies. Sapa is a tourist trap, where most people come to see the surrounding terraced paddy fields, waterfalls and high peaks. They take the over-night train to Lao Cai on the Chinese boarder and get 'bused in' to this mountain-top town. By the time I'd reached Sapa, a 3 day ride from Hanoi, I'd been bowled-over by the shear beauty which unfolded itself around me. Something that the sleeper-train tourists could never see. The local Muong people, more-so the women, dress in vivid blue clothes and always have a welcoming smile on their faces.
Sapa sits at 5,000' above sea level, and my over-riding memory of Sapa is of sleeping in a hotel room, inside my sleeping bag, fully clothed...and still feeling cold. Mount Phanxipang, Vietnam's highest peak, is only a few kms away and rises to 10,000' ASL.
With the Chinese boarder only an hour's ride away, I couldn't resist the short ride and enjoyed a spot of people watching at the boarder post for almost an hour. As with most boarder crossings it was a busy place, with much of the commodities arriving into Vietnam stacked 6' high x 6' wide on bicycles with extended handle bars. The massive and mysterious country of China was just a stone's throw away.
Vietnam fact file:
A visa is required for entry into Vietnam. I bought a 3-month visa (<£100>) as I didn't want to rush my trip with only a 1-month visa. There is an option to obtain your visa 'on arrival', but after a 15 hr flight, all I wanted was a hotel room.
Currency is the Vietnam Dong (VND) £1= <30,000> Dong. So lots of maths involved here ! When I travelled (Nov 2016) You could only obtain Dong inside Vietnam, so you'll need to get some cash from an airport ATM before you step outside. ATM charges vary, I found Agribank ATMs offered one of the lowest rates (70p per transaction). Your card provider may also charge; hence I obtained a Caxton FX card in the UK. Great card, no ATM fees, but your exchange rate maybe slightly lower.
Some places in Vietnam, ironically, accept US Dollars in cash.
Rules of the road: In Vietnam there are no rules Most drive on the right. Beware of on-coming lorries and mini buses which have a total and unhealthy dis-regard for whether you have right of way or not. If you adopt the mind-set of 'bikes are the bottom of the food chain', you'll have a good chance of surviving your trip !
Bikes of burden: Throughout my six-week trip it never ceased to amaze me as to what loads the Vietnamese carried on the back of their mopeds. From dead buffalo to fridge-freezers. Like most things you see in Vietnam, it has to be seen to be believed.
City traffic:
In the western world we get use to traffic stopping for pedestrians. In Vietnam, and especially Hanoi, the traffic is continuously moving, bar for an odd traffic light. Crossing a busy city street is a leap of faith. You have to keep your eye on the on-coming traffic, but they will avoid you....most of the time. A bit like jumping into a shoal of fish, they will all go around you. Remember, no sudden movements, the road users, 90% motorbikes, will go around you.
Use of the horn:
Vietnamese like using their horns, but do so in a friendly way. While us 'westerners' use it mostly as a form of aggression, the Vietnamese 'beep' is more of a friendly 'I'm here, be careful' gesture.
.........to be continued
Leaving behind the onset of a UK winter for warmer climes is a pleasant thought which always fills me with joy, so this more than compensated for the 15-hour flight from Cardiff to Hanoi (via Amsterdam and Kuala Lumpur). Within a few days of landing in a sunny, 25.c Hanoi I'd managed to rent an XR400 (with an electric start) from Phung's Motor Cycles. Finding a motor bike to rent in Hanoi, the city of a million mopeds, is a bit like buying veg at your local supermarket, you're spoiled for choice; though most are around the 125/250cc mark. The XR400 is considered a big bike in Vietnam.
Hanoi is a city steeped in history. The base of the Communist-backed North Vietnam government during the American war, it received much attention from B-52 bombers, but still holds some striking architecture from its past, both from its pre and post French colonialism days. Talking of B-52s, there is even the remains of one in a lake near the city centre, part of its fuselage visible above the water. There are a host of museums to browse and parks to stroll through. Without 'wheels' navigating the city is best done on the back of an Xe om (motor bike taxi); Xe om literally means 'bike hug' and can be found on every street corner. Top-tip: agree a price before you hop on the back. It's also a great way to gradually introduce yourself to Vietnamese road users and their habits. Don't be surprised to see whole families, including 'babes in arms' mounted on a C90. There is hardly any car traffic in Hanoi, so you won't see any traffic jams.
Week 1. Hanoi to Sapa
Leaving the chaos of the Hanoi traffic and it's 7 million inhabitants, the roads took me north out to the suburbs and eventually to the countryside. Being Welsh I usually associate mountains and green landscapes with rain and my pre-packed orange survival cape did a good job of keeping me dry. NW Vietnam has spectacular scenery, but there is a price to pay; even in the so-called 'dry season' it is prone to rain and low cloud. My route to Sapa took me via the Khau Pha Pass. I did manage to see the lower area of the Pass near Tu Le, but as the road gained altitude, the cloud base lowered. This only lasted for an hour or so, before I re-entered the land of blue skies. Sapa is a tourist trap, where most people come to see the surrounding terraced paddy fields, waterfalls and high peaks. They take the over-night train to Lao Cai on the Chinese boarder and get 'bused in' to this mountain-top town. By the time I'd reached Sapa, a 3 day ride from Hanoi, I'd been bowled-over by the shear beauty which unfolded itself around me. Something that the sleeper-train tourists could never see. The local Muong people, more-so the women, dress in vivid blue clothes and always have a welcoming smile on their faces.
Sapa sits at 5,000' above sea level, and my over-riding memory of Sapa is of sleeping in a hotel room, inside my sleeping bag, fully clothed...and still feeling cold. Mount Phanxipang, Vietnam's highest peak, is only a few kms away and rises to 10,000' ASL.
With the Chinese boarder only an hour's ride away, I couldn't resist the short ride and enjoyed a spot of people watching at the boarder post for almost an hour. As with most boarder crossings it was a busy place, with much of the commodities arriving into Vietnam stacked 6' high x 6' wide on bicycles with extended handle bars. The massive and mysterious country of China was just a stone's throw away.
Vietnam fact file:
A visa is required for entry into Vietnam. I bought a 3-month visa (<£100>) as I didn't want to rush my trip with only a 1-month visa. There is an option to obtain your visa 'on arrival', but after a 15 hr flight, all I wanted was a hotel room.
Currency is the Vietnam Dong (VND) £1= <30,000> Dong. So lots of maths involved here ! When I travelled (Nov 2016) You could only obtain Dong inside Vietnam, so you'll need to get some cash from an airport ATM before you step outside. ATM charges vary, I found Agribank ATMs offered one of the lowest rates (70p per transaction). Your card provider may also charge; hence I obtained a Caxton FX card in the UK. Great card, no ATM fees, but your exchange rate maybe slightly lower.
Some places in Vietnam, ironically, accept US Dollars in cash.
Rules of the road: In Vietnam there are no rules Most drive on the right. Beware of on-coming lorries and mini buses which have a total and unhealthy dis-regard for whether you have right of way or not. If you adopt the mind-set of 'bikes are the bottom of the food chain', you'll have a good chance of surviving your trip !
Bikes of burden: Throughout my six-week trip it never ceased to amaze me as to what loads the Vietnamese carried on the back of their mopeds. From dead buffalo to fridge-freezers. Like most things you see in Vietnam, it has to be seen to be believed.
City traffic:
In the western world we get use to traffic stopping for pedestrians. In Vietnam, and especially Hanoi, the traffic is continuously moving, bar for an odd traffic light. Crossing a busy city street is a leap of faith. You have to keep your eye on the on-coming traffic, but they will avoid you....most of the time. A bit like jumping into a shoal of fish, they will all go around you. Remember, no sudden movements, the road users, 90% motorbikes, will go around you.
Use of the horn:
Vietnamese like using their horns, but do so in a friendly way. While us 'westerners' use it mostly as a form of aggression, the Vietnamese 'beep' is more of a friendly 'I'm here, be careful' gesture.
.........to be continued