14th March 2017
I sleep poorly - which is hardly surprising having got four hours sleep in the afternoon. In fact I ring home at one stage to have a chat. I eventually doze off around 0330 and wake, feeling surprisingly refreshed, at about 0830.
I look out of the window to see a steady rain falling.
Bollocks.
Never mind - let's get to it. I wash and dress and then load the bike.
I have come to the conclusion that a lot of the problems yesterday were caused by my base layers (black silk long-johns from Cabela's - try to control your racing heartbeats ladies). The wicking effect caused the water to go everywhere - perhaps if I'd not been wearing them then only my left leg and boot would have been wet.
So I decide to press to test. I put my waterproof trousers on without base layers and squeeze my feet into my still-damp boots...
I pull on my heavyweight waterproof gloves and then realise I need to take them off to put my helmet on.
I am not a clever man...
I need to stop for fuel down the road, so don't put my earplugs in and ride off at about 1000. I'm aiming for Westport on the west coast (funnily enough) - it's about three hours or so away.
I get to the petrol pumps and find chaos. There are two cars at the pumps, with two Harley Davidsons and two KTMs queuing to use them. I have rarely seen so much lack of cooperation and bloody-mindedness in one space. I wish my camera hadn't been buried deep in the waterproof sanctuary of my tank-bag, because it would have made a great Youtube clip.
Eventually, once one of the HD owners and the driver of the Range Rover had stopped poking each other in the chest, I managed to get refuelled, but the scene cheered me up no end. I was further cheered when I came across the HD rider about 20 minutes or so later on the Lewis Pass Highway. He was doing 110kph on the straights, but slowing to close to walking pace (this is not an exaggeration) on the bends. I don't think I've ever seen a less confident rider...
So I set off down the Lewis Pass - it's pissing down. The clouds are low on the hills, but visibility isn't bad, so I'm able to get a series of overtakes in (including the HD), which allows me to keep up a reasonable average speed.
As I cross the last series of hills before Junction Springs, the rain stops - it looks like the weather is trapped in that valley. I decide that brunch is in order, so stop at the café at Junction Springs...
...for one of their bratwurst bedecked Alpine Breakfasts and a large flat white - excellent...
After 40 minutes or so, I feel confident enough about the weather...
...to remove the shower cap from the tank bag, change to dry weather gloves and put the camera on my belt...
I take a good, fast ride up towards Reefton...
...and the weather gets clearer by the mile...
I'm soon through Reefton and turned onto Highway 69 towards Inangahua Junction...
The temperature is now a very comfortable 70°F and everything seems to be drying out quite nicely...
I find my speed creeping up time and again and have to rein it in...
It's so nice to be able to ride without feeling bundled up like the Michelin Man...
...even if I still resemble him in silhouette...
This is a cracking bit of road - even a HD could corner fast here...
I follow the Buller River most of the way to Westport...
...and it's clearly fuller, though not in full spate, as a result of the recent weather...
You'd not think it had rained in weeks now...
...and all my kit feels dry - even my left boot (wasn't there a film about that?)...
I am soon entering Westport - I fill up with fuel at a garage on the main street, which boasts a very attractive Art-Deco building, which houses the town's Municipal Chambers...
...and then check in to my room at the Ascot Motor Lodge...
...which is clean, quiet and has good Wi-Fi.
Tomorrow will be my last day on South Island...
I sleep poorly - which is hardly surprising having got four hours sleep in the afternoon. In fact I ring home at one stage to have a chat. I eventually doze off around 0330 and wake, feeling surprisingly refreshed, at about 0830.
I look out of the window to see a steady rain falling.
Bollocks.
Never mind - let's get to it. I wash and dress and then load the bike.
I have come to the conclusion that a lot of the problems yesterday were caused by my base layers (black silk long-johns from Cabela's - try to control your racing heartbeats ladies). The wicking effect caused the water to go everywhere - perhaps if I'd not been wearing them then only my left leg and boot would have been wet.
So I decide to press to test. I put my waterproof trousers on without base layers and squeeze my feet into my still-damp boots...
I pull on my heavyweight waterproof gloves and then realise I need to take them off to put my helmet on.
I am not a clever man...
I need to stop for fuel down the road, so don't put my earplugs in and ride off at about 1000. I'm aiming for Westport on the west coast (funnily enough) - it's about three hours or so away.
I get to the petrol pumps and find chaos. There are two cars at the pumps, with two Harley Davidsons and two KTMs queuing to use them. I have rarely seen so much lack of cooperation and bloody-mindedness in one space. I wish my camera hadn't been buried deep in the waterproof sanctuary of my tank-bag, because it would have made a great Youtube clip.
Eventually, once one of the HD owners and the driver of the Range Rover had stopped poking each other in the chest, I managed to get refuelled, but the scene cheered me up no end. I was further cheered when I came across the HD rider about 20 minutes or so later on the Lewis Pass Highway. He was doing 110kph on the straights, but slowing to close to walking pace (this is not an exaggeration) on the bends. I don't think I've ever seen a less confident rider...
So I set off down the Lewis Pass - it's pissing down. The clouds are low on the hills, but visibility isn't bad, so I'm able to get a series of overtakes in (including the HD), which allows me to keep up a reasonable average speed.
As I cross the last series of hills before Junction Springs, the rain stops - it looks like the weather is trapped in that valley. I decide that brunch is in order, so stop at the café at Junction Springs...
...for one of their bratwurst bedecked Alpine Breakfasts and a large flat white - excellent...
After 40 minutes or so, I feel confident enough about the weather...
...to remove the shower cap from the tank bag, change to dry weather gloves and put the camera on my belt...
I take a good, fast ride up towards Reefton...
...and the weather gets clearer by the mile...
I'm soon through Reefton and turned onto Highway 69 towards Inangahua Junction...
The temperature is now a very comfortable 70°F and everything seems to be drying out quite nicely...
I find my speed creeping up time and again and have to rein it in...
It's so nice to be able to ride without feeling bundled up like the Michelin Man...
...even if I still resemble him in silhouette...
This is a cracking bit of road - even a HD could corner fast here...
I follow the Buller River most of the way to Westport...
...and it's clearly fuller, though not in full spate, as a result of the recent weather...
You'd not think it had rained in weeks now...
...and all my kit feels dry - even my left boot (wasn't there a film about that?)...
I am soon entering Westport - I fill up with fuel at a garage on the main street, which boasts a very attractive Art-Deco building, which houses the town's Municipal Chambers...
...and then check in to my room at the Ascot Motor Lodge...
...which is clean, quiet and has good Wi-Fi.
Tomorrow will be my last day on South Island...