Have I got a problem developing

Lord Snooty

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2010 GSA - turned ignition on and nothing on the dash, totally blank. Checked bike not in gear, it was on the main stand. Tried key on and off several times and eventually the dash display came on. Pressed start button and it coughed and then nothing. Normally it will start without any throttle but it was just not firing. I then put on a load of throttle and after the bike had turned over and over for what seemed like ages it fired and was fine. Left it to run for a few minutes then switched off and it started ok like normal.

Is this a sign that something is failing?
 
2010 GSA - turned ignition on and nothing on the dash, totally blank. Checked bike not in gear, it was on the main stand. Tried key on and off several times and eventually the dash display came on. Pressed start button and it coughed and then nothing. Normally it will start without any throttle but it was just not firing. I then put on a load of throttle and after the bike had turned over and over for what seemed like ages it fired and was fine. Left it to run for a few minutes then switched off and it started ok like normal.

Is this a sign that something is failing?

Ignition switch.?
Electrical switch is screwed to bottom of mechanical part,not expensive
 
My 2006 GS has been doing this too, totally blank dash, I've found if I leave it in the on position it comes to life after about 30 secs, or if I turn it off and on it's fine again, Bahnstormer advised to wait till it totally fails before booking it in, funny thing though, I've just come home from a trip abroad it never done it once out there and hasn't since I've been home, no doubt it will soon though.
 
Wiring to the ignition switch can fail on the oil heads. Assuming the switch is still hard wired from the loom on hex heads and secured near the headstock, then I would check there. Switch on, waggle the harness to the switch and see what happens.
 
I had exactly the same on my 2010 TC. After turning the key several times the dash would eventually come to life, it also seemed to be getting progressively worse. A light spray of WD40 into the ign switch barrel seems to have sorted it out, with no reoccurrence for the last couple of months.
 
Ignition switch.?
Electrical switch is screwed to bottom of mechanical part,not expensive

First off, I would check the battery terminals. I had almost the same problem last week on a 650 Dakar and although the battery terminals seemed tight, after I took them off and retightened the problem went away. Had the same on an 1100 many years ago and a change of battery terminal nuts and bolts solved the problem.

Saying that, I think Mike is right and change the ignition switch. I had the same problem on my 1200 in the US a couple of years ago when it would sometimes take ages to get the ignition to come on and was very sporadic. Changed the switch and never an issue since.
 
A light spray of WD40 into the ign switch barrel seems to have sorted it out, with no reoccurrence for the last couple of months.

Do not use that SHIT on or near the Switchgear !!!! The seals on BMW switchgear microswitches seem to be made from some sort of latex which upon meeting WD40 it disintegrates! and then you get the flashers staying on syndrome etc etc

Get a product by Fuchs Silkolene called "SilkOpen" its a graphited penetrating aerosol and is excellent at freeing locks and the graphite leaves them lubricated rather than WD which dries out

This problem is becoming more regular, especially on F series twins, I understand that there is now a Micro switch in the base of ignition switches and this has a habit of sticking open and worse still it sticks closed (i.e. as a made contact) and you cannot switch off the bikes
 
I am a complete numpty on these things but, I have noticed when the kill switch is 'on' when the key is turned none of the usual start up processes occur including ABS lights and dash info, so it has to be in that region doesn't it?
 
Mine did exactly the same yesterday :blast my first thought is the switch as Mikeyboy said :thumb2
 
Thanks for the info guys. I will start with the basics and check the battery terminals and do some waggling of the ignition switch to see if it a loose connection.

DR F - I have a spray called Electroklene in my garage would it be ok to spray that into the switch?
 
Every day when i turn my key,

I await with anticipation the next warning or problem that will occupy my day :blast
 
Mine did the same, I replaced the switch on the bottom of the barrel and it has been fine ever since, its not the ignition key part that fails so don't squirt anything in there, its the switch that bolts to the bottom that fails. It was about 80 quid from the dealer and is easy to fit yourself.
 
Checked the battery terminals this evening and all nice and tight. Tried ignition and it all came up as normal, tried several times and all ok on each occasion. So what to do next? Do I just ignore it put and it down as a glitch, a gremlin in the system and just carry on regardless? If the ignition module is failing will it show up on a diagnostics check?
 
Checked the battery terminals this evening and all nice and tight. Tried ignition and it all came up as normal, tried several times and all ok on each occasion. So what to do next? Do I just ignore it put and it down as a glitch, a gremlin in the system and just carry on regardless? If the ignition module is failing will it show up on a diagnostics check?

Mine was very intermittent when it was playing around, could be fine for ages then it would take 3-5 turns to get it to engage, don't worry too much until it does it more frequently, mine started doing it more often, so I changed it before a big trip as I didn't want to be stuck in the middle of nowhere.
I have heard of others which have stayed on which could be an even bigger problem, you can't even leave the bike, and I remember one person who didn't realise it had stayed on and it drained the battery.
 


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