Here's my set up with the 'E' marked spacers and fitted as per their instructions. I found the pin will release ok with a shove on the wheel. Locks into a brake disc hole cleanly. I can't see how the smaller spacer could be used as the lock body wouldn't clear the caliper. With this set up it's easy to clean the caliper, change pads etc.
Here the small unmarked spacer supplied with the single set of bolts in a bag.
Check you've got enough thread in the caliper. I used the smallest spacers and that worked perfectly. The bigger spacers reduced the amount of thread in the caliper mount by too much. It's covered in the instructions.
Thanks, yes plenty of thread, as said, I followed there instructions to the letter.
Guys, I don't know if I've got this horribly wrong, but I came across this today while I fitted my Roadlok to my GSA.
Firstly, I ordered the BMW Kit, as the caliper bolts are a specific thread type to BMW. Which is why Roadlok ask you to specify
BMW when ordering the Roadlok kit. Don't go fitting any old bolts, as the thread type may cause thread damage in your forks.
The Roadlok Owner Ian McCarthy said this to me in an email "BMW bikes use coarse thread mounting bolts (1.5mm), whereas all other bikes use a finer thread (1.25mm). Attempting to use the wrong mounting hardware will strip out your fork, so please be sure the kit contains the right type."
So... I also got the two spacers in with the two BMW bolts. Separate from the extra pack of spacers.
I too, wondered why the extra two spacers... these ones...
Well I think I know why.
The procedure was to unbolt the original caliper bolts and rest them loosely (in situ) against the start of the thread. Then measure the thread gap you would need as a minimum (mine measured 16.8mm with a vernier gauge).
Once I'd fitted my spacer for the pin alignment, the bolt gap was way more than 16.8mm that I needed. So those two spacers are for the head of the bolts, to ensure you have the RIGHT AMOUNT OF GAP...
If you don't use them, (depending how big the spacers were that you used) the bolt could be driven too far into the caliper and the top bolt will not tighten correctly as it hits the thread stop. So you may get a false torque reading.
Look at the picture below. The top bolt protrudes out more than the bottom bolt. That's because the top bolt may have hit the end of its available thread and might actually not be sited correctly.
The two spacers allow the correct room for the bolts to be seated with proper torque grip.
I measured mine, and although my bolts don't sit flush with the Roadlock body, they are inserted to the correct depth of thread (17mm) and torqued up correctly.
When I tried it without the spacers, both bolts torqued correctly, but as in the picture above, they were not at the same level. So I unbolted the bottom bolt, and the top bolt was loose. It was hitting it's thread stop (too deep).
Anyways.... this is how mine looks, and all the bolts torqued up properly and with those spacers in place, the gap was correct as originally measured