R1200 RT - Wheel Bearing Removal

chopper_harris

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I picked up a cheap, high mileage R1200RT a few years ago, and have started to strip it down for an overhaul.

There was a lot of corrosion on the subframe, and the wheels were badly chipped and corroded.

Despite best efforts with a gas torch and sharp chisel, I couldn't pick up an edge on either front wheel bearing, so time for the trusty Rawlbolt method.
The older readers may have seen this before, but it may be helpful for our younger members :


Take one Rawlbolt - in this case it's an M16 bolt, 25mm O/D and shaft length 35mm - it needed lightly dressing with an angle grinder to fit the 25mm I/D wheel bearing.

Mark a line at 20mm, this is the working depth to ensure a firm bite on the wheel bearing.
Crank up the Rawlbolt as tight as you can.

Apply a generous amount of heat from a gas torch (An electric paint stripping gun will work, but takes forever)
Take an old 11/16 socket on 6" extension, and tap the Rawlbolt until the bearing is free - It doesn't take brute force.
It is likely the spacer will come away at the same time, else remove by hand..

You can then invert the wheel, heat as before, and use a 32mm socket to drive out the other bearing.

In this case you can see the corrosion on the bearing faces.

The method should be applicable to the later K bikes, which also use a 25mm wheel spindle.


01_Wheel.jpg


02_RBolt.jpg


03_RBoltg.jpg


04_RBoltp.jpg


05_RBolt.jpg


06_RBolt.jpg


07_Tighten.jpg


08_Drift.jpg


09_Drift.jpg


10_Drift.jpg


11_Drift.jpg


12_Drift.jpg


13_Drift.jpg


14_Done.jpg


I have a several spare M16/25mm Rawlbolts if anyone wishes to try this at home !
 
Can you clarify please ,

What was the purpose of the rawlbolt if you attacked it from behind?

I get the use of rawlbolt if you were going to use a slide hammer to pull in the same direction as the bolt?

But unless ive missed somthing, couldnt you have just used a stubby extension and a bolt pushed

through from the other side and drifted against that?
 
The spacer tube is the same diameter as the bearing inner so you won't be able to do it like that.
 
On most Jap or classic bikes, the spacer can be moved a few mm to enable you to strike the inner race of the lower bearing with a fine chisel or tommy bar.

As I stated in the original post, the spacer is such a tight tolerance within the hub centre that it was impossible to get a nip on the inner race.
 


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