Clutch lever - suddenly reaching handlebar

Slipperyeel said:
Parts from MW due in tomorrow. But looking at photos on the web - as i do a little prep before i get in there - i can see there is a seal in the gearbox itself that the push rod runs through.

Should i replace this as well, while i'm in there? And presumably that means draining the gearbox (not a big deal at all).

I mean one of these:

View attachment 351086


EDIT: Just seen this says 5 speed gearboxes... I thought all the gearboxes were 6 speed on the 1150?
Click to expand...

There is a seal in there, maybe not that one though! I got mine with the clutch parts from Motorworks. If I remember correctly the new seal had to be fitted to a specified depth (it was a few years ago so my memory might be playing tricks)

Makes no sense to go that far and not fit all new parts.

John
 
Slipperyeel said:
Parts from MW due in tomorrow. But looking at photos on the web - as i do a little prep before i get in there - i can see there is a seal in the gearbox itself that the push rod runs through.

Should i replace this as well, while i'm in there? And presumably that means draining the gearbox (not a big deal at all).

I mean one of these:

View attachment 351086


EDIT: Just seen this says 5 speed gearboxes... I thought all the gearboxes were 6 speed on the 1150?
Click to expand...

The one you're after is listed as GEA56019 - Input shaft rear seal all 6 speed on Motorworks. Bit of a pain to get out though when I tried, I ended up giving it to Steptoe. :augie
 
mattgirv said:
The one you're after is listed as GEA56019 - Input shaft rear seal all 6 speed on Motorworks. Bit of a pain to get out though when I tried, I ended up giving it to Steptoe. :augie
Click to expand...

I made a tool to hook the thing out. A bit like a crochet hook - google them if by some strange chance you don't do crochet work!. Worked a treat
 
Thanks gents. Very useful feedback. I'll get back onto the MW site.

But it seems replacing this is a good idea. I have a set off seal pullers, little ones, but I'm sure I can make something if they don't work. Wish me luck
 
Slipperyeel said:
And presumably that means draining the gearbox (not a big deal at all).


EDIT: Just seen this says 5 speed gearboxes... I thought all the gearboxes were 6 speed on the 1150?
Click to expand...

No need to drain gearbox oil if just replacing the seal.

I don't understand your confusion ? The page says for 5 speed gearboxes, NOT the 1150.
 
Steptoe said:
No need to drain gearbox oil if just replacing the seal.

I don't understand your confusion ? The page says for 5 speed gearboxes, NOT the 1150.
Click to expand...
Thanks Steptoe. Will save me doing something I don't need to do.

Yea, my mistake. Sifting through stuff when I was tired. But all clear now. I'll get the seal as a tenner to have it done while I'm in they're makes sense.
 
Today I'm fitting the new clutch slave. It was most definitely the issue. Do well done those that suspected that from the start. It's a mess.

20170909_110449.jpg

But I'm also replacing the oil seal and getting that out is proving a PITA. I'm about to grind a screwdriver into a favourable shape. But any tips on getting this bugger out?

Cheers
 
This is what I'm ring to get out (you can see it needs replacing if you look closely).

Am I right to think there I'd no 'stop' for this seal? And if that's a yes, how many mm behind it is the bearing? Just trying to work out the shape for my reappropriated screwdriver!

20170909_112927.jpg
 
It's out. Reappropriated a screwdriver. Worked first time . Now just need to reassemble before it bloody pours with rain!

20170909_134554.jpg
20170909_135217.jpg
20170909_135256.jpg
20170909_135251.jpg
 
Well done......:clap

For future reference. You might find a couple of long self tapping screws would save you knackering a screwdriver.

But improvisation is good for the brain. It makes you work the problem.

Ian
:D
 
It is a little awkward to remove for sure.
I cut a little slot in the bottom of the paper mounting gasket, the theory being it will drip oil from this if the seal or slave fail in the future. Im pretty sure someone has also drilled a weep hole for this purpose also.
Normally I would agree with self tappers, but in this case it would be a PITA to do in this location. A gearbox bearing is pretty close behind the seal.
Nice job :)
 
Thanks gents. I did actually try with screws, but erred on the side of caution as I wasn't 100% sure how close everything was behind the seal.

It's a fiddly bloody job. I'd have had it done in about 2.5 hrs of it wasn't for that seal and a cup of tea to ponder my options.

Interestingly all the posts I found on this job, across lots of forums, they all quoted their bikes as being around the 60k miles mark, which matches the 59k of mine.

I also found posts with Steptoe helping people as far back as 2008 with the same job

Clutch feels great now. Here's hoping I fitted that seal properly (glad I took photos as I went) otherwise it'll be a new clutch before I know it!

Oh. I read about making a cut in the gasket and planned to do it. But by the time I'd sussed out the Chinese puzzle of getting the slave back in with attached hoses, I couldn't be bothered. I consoled myself that it should at least last another 60k miles!
 
Clutch Lever 0 suddenly reaching handlebar

As I revive this thread a year or so onwards, I'm awaiting the arrival here in Spain of the new 'viton' orange- or brown-coloured seal before I can fit the new Clutch Slave Cylinder.
It's on its way from MW in Yokk-shurr along with another one for Motorcycling Mo's giant GSA year 04; same vintage as my Rockster.

And I'm also awaiting the arrival from Madrid of the set of seal picks that most people seem to think is the best way to get the old contaminated seal out. They should be here mid-week.

So...

I was very glad of 'slipperyeel's fotos in this year-old thread, of the shagged seal. Mine's still in there of course, awaiting the picks, so it's very informative seeing what the original seal looks like. Many thanks to you, sir.

On the other forum that i find is a mine of useful info on maintaining these bikes, ADVRider, there's a guy in Sunshine Coast, British Columbia, Canada, called GSAddict, "Reto", who has sent me his method of seal removal using the pick with the right-angle :-

"The brown seals are the updated ones. METHOD: Gently drive one side of the seal slightly inwards and cock it.
Hook the other side and pull. Not an easy task. Use a steady even pull instead of jerking and yanking.
It's extremely important to be VERY careful not to gouge the bore or scratch the shaft as your struggle.
A driver tool for the new seal can be made from a PVC plumbing fitting from your local hardware store."

Wise words indeed, ¿ don't you agree ?

And he sends a dimensions-drawing in the old "inches" which the colonials still apparently use :

Gearbox_input_-_new_output_seal_insertion_driver_dimensions.jpg


And here's Reto's foto of the finished article :-

Gearbox_input_-_new_output_seal_insertion_tool_-_plastic_pipe.jpg



Hope all that is of help for other Weekend Warriors like myself. It certainly is for me.

Of course "Steptoe" will say he has the seal out whilst watching the 'Previously' preamble for 'Bodyguard' with a cup of tea in his hand whilst answering the phone and combing his hair. But he's a professional.
AL in s.e. Spain.
 
Well done with the driver for the seal :thumb2

I also have a set of picks and duly got them out for this job. But as Steppers said, they need to be strong, which is why I ended up with that modified screwdriver - which is also much longer and the handle gave a little more control and sensitivity.

The picks are useful for many many things. But on this job I found them a tad short.

Keep us posted!


Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
 
As I said, 3 - 6mm below flush, or copy Steptoe and send them fully home..your choice.
 
When you say "below flush" I think you mean below the leading edge of the tube that the pushrod slides into...please correct me if I'm wrong.

But the annoying thing about this whole issue on my Rockster ( now painstakingly matriculated into Spanish after no less than 6 weeks from the date of its Spanish MOT pass and at a total cost of €600 ) is that there's only 24K in miles on the clock ! The general condition of the bike makes me think that's a genuine figure.

My local barman commented on the ridiculous complexity of Spanish bureaucracy when I told him the new plate number - 6891 KPF
"Ah", he said. "Kah-Pay-Effay". (KPF pronounced in Spanish consonants )
"Que proceso fatal".
What a deadly process.
 
Spot-on, Neil - I don't think you ever did say that.
I'm hoping that if I can get the crapped-one out, using your strong-pick method, that when I push in the new one, the face that's facing me will be just level with the leading edge of the central tube for the pushrod.
¿ Correct ?
 
It's really no big deal pushing in the new one. Your tool will make it a breeze.

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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