Norway in August

Deptford Dean

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Hi all
Quick report on my recent solo trip to Norway on my old Honda Africa Twin 750. a bit of verbal and some piccies.

I left home on 29th of July at about 1pm and just over 1 hour later I was in Folkstone waiting..in the rain..to board the 3.20pm Eurotunnel.
I hoped the weather would get better on the other side of the channel. I had lots of time to hope because there were 2x 20 minute delays whilst queueing in the rain. There is a small shelter at the front of the queue and it turns out to be a great place to meet fellow bikers sheltering from the rain ....all having a story to tell. A group of Harley riding Dutch bikers on their way home from a Scottish tour, a lone biker on his way to Paris, a group of English lads on a 4 day pocket rocket trip to the Black Forest, and a young Argentinian I.T expert called Fernando riding his brand new R nine T Urban GS to Eindhoven to start a 7 month work contract.
It was good to finally get on board and out of the rain. Me and Fernando decided to ride together until we reached Eindhoven.
We rode the 200+ miles in torrential rain. Bidding each other good luck i carried on for another 30 miles before finally finding a hotel. No camping in this weather.

Fernando drying out.
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Up and out early next morning for the long ride to Hirstals for a ferry to Larvik. I had friends in Tonsberg and Bergen. Tonsberg would be my base. I had about 3 weeks and my plan was to get to the Artic Circle and to try to see some of the more well known sites en route.
Missing my late ferry by minutes and still not having got my camping head on because of the rain I booked into the very expensive...got you over a barrel type of thingy...Montra Skaga Hotel. They wanted £150 for a room...I pleaded poverty and they found a conference room... a 3 bed dorm type room with shared toilet and shower for £90...all to myself.

Next morning up and out early...that was a theme to this trip..and the 200 yard ride down to the port put me first in line...where I met Mick the Oz touring on his Moto Guzzi 1200..btw he's based in the UK. We had a chat and enjoyed a sunny morning standing around waiting to board.

Mike the Oz
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Arriving in Larvik about 2pm after the 4 hour crossing i made my way to Tonsberg...about 1 hours ride away.
I spent a few days chilling out and seeing some sights.

Sunset over Tjome.
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Bikes and Lighthouse in Verdens End.
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Viking Ship in Tonsberg.
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After a couple of days I was up early and heading north.
Utoya Island north west of Oslo on the E16. Site of the 2011 Norwegian massacre.
I stopped and said a few quiet words.

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On up past Lilliehammer on the E6...the road that takes you all the way to Nordcapp. Nice ride so far and a good introduction to riding in Norway. Never fast and usually single carriageway.

Randon on the road.
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By the time I decided to stop in a hostal (could'nt be arsed camping) near Dovre at about 7pm I had ridden about 250 slowish miles.
Parked next to an Italian on his way solo to Nordcapp.
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Up and out early again...towards Trondeim and the road to Hell. That's a small town a few miles east of Trondheim. It's not as bad as they say :)
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Hell train station...it really is the end of the line.
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It was here i made a split decision to go west as the forecast was for rain all the way to the Circle...turns out it was rain in the west too.
I made my way back past Trondheim..in the rain.. onto the E39 to Orkanger and turned off onto the Fv462. Turning right onto the RV65 to catch the ferry to Frykkem from Kvanne i met a group of 13 Harley bikers and followed them for the 60 dry miles to the ferry on a beautiful twisty road.

Buying tickets on board.
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Ferry from Kvanne. All the ferries I took cost about £6 for the short crossings. Pay on board with card or cash.
Card is used every where. Some petrol stations are unmanned and only allow card at the pumps.
Athough these 3 beauties were not in use.
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Quick break...KitKat
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I carried on alone still smiling after that great ride with the Harley riders. After about 60 wettish miles on otherwise lovely roads I eventually got to a place called Vistdal, a proper one horse town, and found a camp site...my first camp. Very basic and hot water was not working...but I was tired and thought it was time I actually done some camping. It was shite to be honest as no sooner had I set the tent up it rained until 10am next morning...I was a prisoner in my one man tent for hours.
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Up and out...when the rain finally stopped about 10am next morning, but only managed about 50 miles as it started again as soon as i had packed up.... and this time there was heavy mist with the rain. Slow wet ride before i finally gave up and stopped after 50 miles.

Tovika
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Made it to Andalsnes Camping by late afternoon.
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It had just stopped raining but i was wet and tired so camped here until 6am following morning when I left to ride up the Trollstigen and on to Geiranger.

View from my tent at Andalsnes camping. Hot showers, cafe and free wifi.
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Early start again on wet roads but clear skies.
Pictures of Trollstigen ride.
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Cold ride to the ferry for Geiranger.
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A twisty climb up then a twisty descent to Geiranger.
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On leaving Geiranger I climbed to over 1000 metres and really felt the cold.
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Near Loen
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One of the shorter tunnels. I lost count of the tunnels I went through. One was 11kms...bloody amazing engineering...
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Found a great Hostal in Forde. Forde Hostal was a life saver as I'd had a tough day in the rain. £75 including brekkie. They offered to dry my clothes out in the boiler room. Perfect start with bone dry riding kit for early next morning...but as I set off the heavens opened again.

Made it to Bergen...it had been raining every day for 70 days. Then carried on to stay with some redneck Norwegian friends just south of Bergen.
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Hatvik....Another ferry...in the rain again
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Gjerdmundshamm ferry crossing.
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Furebergfossen Waterfall
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The lonely road to Odda
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The morning had started nice but soon turned to torrential rain.
Crossing Telemark I had to stop after riding for 60 miles in horrendous conditions with nowhere safe to stop until I reached Amot.
Coming down off the mountain I found a camp site in Amot. Groven Camping...so happy to find they had a hut available...£50 for the night. Hot showers, sauna and a dry room for wet clothes.
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Left early the following morning with the sun shining. It turned out to be the best day's riding i had had. Just north of Amot is the Fv854...a beautiful riding road which I took until it met the N134 at Flatdal. I took all day riding this road ad I was exploring off road into the forests.
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Arrived back late in Tonsberg and spent a few days there
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Then to the 8am ferry from Larvik to Hirstals
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I have a Danish friend who lives about one hour from Hirtsals in Aalborg. I spent the night there before the long ride to Dunkirk for the ferry to Dover. By the time I got home to south London I had ridden about 835 miles in one day. I slept well that night.
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Great trip but very wet. Norway is a beautiful country with some amazing riding...but it is just so expensive....food especially.
Having said that I will go back one day because it's just so beautiful and because the rain messed up any sightseeing I had planned I feel I have unfinished business... I'm lucky because I've got a few friends dotted all over Norway. Maybe Nordcap next year flying up through Sweden and slow ride down the west coast. Hopefully if that trip happens it won't be during the wettest summer in 20 years as this trip was. All good fun though...

Sorry about picture layout... I hope you enjoy.
 
Don't worry about the picture layout .. they were very good ! Nice trip well done.:)
 
Dean , thanks for posting ! Great ideas for 2018 In there !
Glad you liked it.
It's a big country and riding days are governed by the weather, at least mine were. Plenty of time is needed too because there is so much to see. The scenery is spectacular.
Next time I would take cooking equipment to cut down on costs... equivalent of £17 for burger and chips in a truck stop. Almost double that if you add a couple of beers. Crazy. Loads of camping and huts. Cheapish too. The one hut I had was great.
 
Hey Dean,
You mentioned in your PM that it was a wet trip but jeezus mate,you've probably got webbed feet by now!
Thank you for taking the time and trouble to write up this ride report,and considering the awful weather your photos are superb.
Nice one. :beerjug:
 
Great ride report with some stunning pictures - really enjoyed that and thanks for posting. :beerjug:
 
Hey Dean,
You mentioned in your PM that it was a wet trip but jeezus mate,you've probably got webbed feet by now!
Thank you for taking the time and trouble to write up this ride report,and considering the awful weather your photos are superb.
Nice one. :beerjug:

Hello mate
God it was wet. I did have a couple of sunny, hot days tho.
Stunning when the weather is good.
The TKC80's weren't the best choice and I didn't do anywhere near as much off road as I had hoped... kidding myself �� but still a good tyre on the road and in the wet . Lots of slow mph once in Norway so no problem really.
A great trip which I'd do again... possibly Nordcap.
Glad you like the report and pics.
Regards
 
Great write up Dean. shame you had terrible weather. i just returned from a similar trip and had almost pure sun, dont let the rain put you off going again. i basically went from Kristiansand to Trollstigen via the fjords. I don`t feel the need to go further north (unless time is no issue) and split my accommodation between camping and Huts. i also took a lot of camping food/nuts/snacks from the UK so didn`t need to buy much there. have a look at my ride report called No way Norway...not as in depth as yours but places will be familiar to you...
top place and I would recommend it to all bikers
 
A great report, glad the rain didn't dampen your spirits :thumb some great photos too, thanks for sharing
 
Great report and pictures. Inspiring. I keep looking at Norway - I am going to have to get it out of my system!


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Rain for straight 70 days? ...and we complain about some rain in the uk :D

Thanks for sharing and great pics. The Honda in that colour scheme looks Fab against the back drop.

Ride safe.

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Great report and pictures. Inspiring. I keep looking at Norway - I am going to have to get it out of my system!


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Go for it.... I plan a return trip next year. Fantastic place for m/c touring. Can be wet, especially in the west but worth the hassle.
 
Great report. Went to Sw Norway in 2005 when the Kristiansand ferry still ran from Newcastle. Did it in late may early June and it was dry 7 of eight days. But has to approach Geiranger from the north as the southern route was still blocked by snow! :D
 
That was a great report.... I enjoyed the read, and your pics were excellent. I know sometimes if the weather is crap its difficult to get motivated but thanks for making the effort - the results speak for themselves.

Some of those mountain roads look incredible..... definitely a place I'd like to visit.

SP :thumby:
 


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