Fuel Strip Emulator from HP Oskam engineering in the Netherlands

flo3flo said:
Sadly my ZFE doesn't seem to 'see' the unit I bought from Henk.
I'll just have to live with warnings flashing.
Ill put the unit on eBay at a knock down price, then hopefully sometime soon Bendy will come up with the ultimate solution.

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Click to expand...

I can't post a picture as I'm not on a hosting service and deleted Tapatalk ( too distracting). However its simple stuff with (almost the same circuit as shown in the AdvRider image. Total cost including Vero board (striped printed circuit board) and minimum order levels for resistors was just over £5. A bit more if you need solder and wires.

I soldered the 39K and 1 Meg resistors and potentiometer to the Veroboard giving a circuit as described by AdvRider except the 2K resistor is replaced by the the 5K potentiometer.

A full tank is all very well but a used fuel pump will struggle to fully empty the GSA tank when FPC is running in normal mode. When trip has covered about 75% of the range, you can turn up the pot. This will spoof a low fuel level and cause the pump to run at full power and fully empty the tank.

That's my hope. It's dark now so testing stopped.
 
Some time ago I mentioned that I was building a float convertor for the GS(A)'s, it's ready now!
Today I made a started with my website but it's still under construction although it will be ready in the next two weeks.

So, with ordering it, manuals etc. Then the site also be available in the English language. You now can take a look at my website at www.proebeemer.nl .
Klik on "Produkten" then you'll see the Float Control. In the past weekt Float Control is heavy tested on several bikes.
After the website is finnished I'll start with some embedded software for placing a float in the tank of a R1200RT just like the Polish PDF. Because you can't click a original float on the pumpunit in thCe tank of a R1200RT. For that purpose I use a (car) float of the brand "Bugiad". German brand and also same quality as VDO float's.

With my Float Control for GS(A) you should use floater type number for the GSA: 16148554065 and for the GS: 16148554064

Bert Proeme
Netherlands
 
My test adaptor is ready to try. I'll be running it tomorrow.

The 1 amp resistor wires fit perfectly into the 4 pin fuel strip plug. I pushed 10mm pins of wire not the stranded wire end and dabbed on some solder. Tape around keeps it in place. I'm yet to run the bike.

The 40 ohm (1 amp) and 1 MegOhm (250mA) are normal resistors. The 2K is provided by a 5K potentiometer. I'm hoping the float in series with the 2K can give enough variable resistance to allow the ZFE to see it as a fuel strip. It's probably a hope too far and I expect to need a logic circuit to convert the float gauge output to suit the ZFE input values. The good news however would be an easy way to use any float sender. Some have a 100 ohm range, some are 180 ohm.
 
The 5K pot was set at about 2K no faffing about with test meters and I now have a full fuel tank on the gauge and no more yellow triangle. the bike has to be ridden before the ZFE registers the fuel level.

I now need to get it boxed into a case and then have a fiddle about with the potentiometer setting to see how it affects the tank level reading. It has to be done with engine running and ideally bike moving so detail testing is awkward.
 
Bendy toy said:
The 5K pot was set at about 2K no faffing about with test meters and I now have a full fuel tank on the gauge and no more yellow triangle. the bike has to be ridden before the ZFE registers the fuel level.

I now need to get it boxed into a case and then have a fiddle about with the potentiometer setting to see how it affects the tank level reading. It has to be done with engine running and ideally bike moving so detail testing is awkward.
Click to expand...
Good work.


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Thanks.
I can get it to register full tank or empty tank. So far not found the part empty sweet spot.
When it’s “empty” a little blob appears at the bottom right of the level graph. The heater resistor is still connected so I don’t know if this means the ZFE thinks the strip is totally shot or just the sensing 2K.

Work in progress


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Bendy toy said:
Thanks.
I can get it to register full tank or empty tank. So far not found the part empty sweet spot.
When it’s “empty” a little blob appears at the bottom right of the level graph. The heater resistor is still connected so I don’t know if this means the ZFE thinks the strip is totally shot or just the sensing 2K.

Work in progress


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Click to expand...
I managed to get the 1 meg and 2 k ohm, half watt resistors from Maplins.
However they only have 2 watt, 39 & 43 ohm resistors. I need 1 watt versions as I understand it.

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flo3flo said:
I managed to get the 1 meg and 2 k ohm, half watt resistors from Maplins.
However they only have 2 watt, 39 & 43 ohm resistors. I need 1 watt versions as I understand it.

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Click to expand...

The power rating for resistors is the maximum they can cope with. Using 2 watt resistors instead of 1 watt will make no difference to the operation of the circuitry. It will cost you a few pence more for the higher-rated components, which will likely be physically bigger, but it will work just fine.
 
Bear said:
The power rating for resistors is the maximum they can cope with. Using 2 watt resistors instead of 1 watt will make no difference to the operation of the circuitry. It will cost you a few pence more for the higher-rated components, which will likely be physically bigger, but it will work just fine.
Click to expand...
Thanks for this.

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The wires for a 37 ohn 1 watt are the perfect size for the connector socket. Mine has no trouble coping with the load though doing a quick calc it should be seeing about 4 watts. Oops.

Presumably its not seeing a full 12V otherwise I'll need to get a 5 watt resistor.

The higher resistances pull less power anyway but will still need those 1 W sized pins to fit the connector.

I've managed to solder wires to my old mangled fuel strip. There is infinite resistance between the heater and the sensor tracks. I suspect the 1 megohm bias resistor is not needed. Not had time to prove it.
 
I’ve found a point of empty fuel tank. It looks like being about 3.3K ohm. I got it to show half full but didn’t get an ohm reading (too dark at the time) I need to find the true value of full tank. It’s always been said to be 2K but that 1300 ohm resistance range is not appropriate for a gently heated resistor.


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Resurrecting this thread.
I finally came round to have all the parts (float, emulator, etc.)... anyone still has the original instructions from Hank?

It should be fairly straightforward: remove pump, remove strip, click in float, connect all, fill tank... etc. but wanted to double check in case.

cheers.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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