R1100GS Final Drive Bearing

West coast gser · Sep 9, 2017

Howdo folks ..got the final drive bearing off and the rivets were all intact but it sounded rough as you turn it ..so replacing it..the taper bearing on the end seems to be ok ..should I replace it too ? I can remove it from the crown wheel but the race in the hub might pose a problem as I cant seem to get a puller in behind the race to get it out .. :confused:

just to confirm the fd is still connected to the bike

fatnfast · Sep 9, 2017

Leave it be. By all means check the condition of it, but I bet it's just fine. I was in the same situation years ago. No problem since.

Slipperyeel · Sep 9, 2017

Don't bother. If the races look clean and score free, I reckon it's fine.

That's my penneth. But others might advise differently.

fizzer · Sep 10, 2017

this what i had to use to get the race out of my old rockster
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00L4AZYLK

and if you do change that bearing take care that washer at the top needs to go the correct way round.
but as said ,if its ok leave it

Slipperyeel · Sep 10, 2017

Another detail to consider is that if you did decide to change the taper bearing, you'll almost definitely need to re-shim the assembly.

If you leave it in there's much less of a requirement (though in an ideal world you'd probably re-shim it anyway, even just for the big bearing!)

West coast gser · Sep 10, 2017

Hmm..whats this re shim ? I just thought you would take off bearing and put on new one ..and just re use the 2 big shims ??

Slipperyeel · Sep 10, 2017

West coast gser said:
Hmm..whats this re shim ? I just thought you would take off bearing and put on new one ..and just re use the 2 big shims ??

Yes. If you just replace the big bearing, re-use the existing shims already in there

The bearings should be made to a sufficient tolerance to not need a re-shimming exercise.

BUT, if you replace the taper bearing as well, then it would be wise to go through the re-shimming process as between the two sets of bearings there could easily be enough difference to mess up the existing assembly.

Saying all this, if you were out on your adventure and had to do this, you'd just stuff that and get it back together

. But if you're at home, with access to the right gear, then I think that would be the proper thing to do.

West coast gser · Sep 10, 2017

Slipperyeel said:
Yes. If you just replace the big bearing, re-use the existing shims already in there The bearings should be made to a sufficient tolerance to not need a re-shimming exercise.

BUT, if you replace the taper bearing as well, then it would be wise to go through the re-shimming process as between the two sets of bearings there could easily be enough difference to mess up the existing assembly.

Saying all this, if you were out on your adventure and had to do this, you'd just stuff that and get it back together . But if you're at home, with access to the right gear, then I think that would be the proper thing to do.

So do you just get 2 new shims from say Motorworks and use them ?

fizzer · Sep 10, 2017

West coast gser said:
So do you just get 2 new shims from say Motorworks and use them ?

no mate it needs to be measured then the correct shims ordered.have a search there is a way to do the measuring if you have the correct gear
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sn5zs8RslF4

West coast gser · Sep 10, 2017

fizzer said:
no mate it needs to be measured then the correct shims ordered.have a search there is a way to do the measuring if you have the correct gear
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sn5zs8RslF4

Hmm..now I'm confused ..?? The video's on youtube n posts on various sites about replacing the bearings I've watched n read don't mention reshimming only if you replace the front input bearing to get the correct backlash/mesh of the crown wheel n pinion ! Hmm think I'll jus replace the big bearing for now as the taper one is good

fizzer · Sep 10, 2017

thats what most would do

Slipperyeel · Sep 10, 2017

West coast gser said:
Hmm..now I'm confused ..?? The video's on youtube n posts on various sites about replacing the bearings I've watched n read don't mention reshimming only if you replace the front input bearing to get the correct backlash/mesh of the crown wheel n pinion ! Hmm think I'll jus replace the big bearing for now as the taper one is good

If you do that (I mean just replace the big bearing - which sounds like all you need), then use the shims that are in there already ***note: some might have no shims, including yours***. If the taper bearing looks clean, I'd leave it alone.

If there are any shims then they'll be between the cover plate and the crown wheel/bearing. They're only about 5mm wide and depending on which thicknesses are in there you'd be forgiven for missing them. Easy to damage, especially the thin ones. Give the cover plate a thorough degreasing and you'll find them, if they're there.

The other shims you mention are completely different, though admittedly they are part of the whole FD assembly.

kennyc · Sep 10, 2017

fizzer said:
this what i had to use to get the race out of my old rockster
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00L4AZYLK

and if you do change that bearing take care that washer at the top needs to go the correct way round.
but as said ,if its ok leave it

this

is what I used to swap mine

Holy shit ! thats a large pic! sorry :jager

West coast gser · Sep 10, 2017

kennyc said:
this

is what I used to swap mine
Holy shit ! thats a large pic! sorry

Hi thanks for all the replies :thumb2

just gonna replace the big bearing as the taper is fine strange thing is the big bearing cage n rivets look ok ..but reading thru posts on here that means nothing as its went a few thou miles later ..

and yeah thats what I used to get the bearing off nice big chisel n worked it round the bearing :thumb2

and used a 3 legged puller for the last few mil as it was very tight to get off ..crown wheel is in the freezer as I type ..

Slipperyeel · Sep 10, 2017

Sounds like you'll be just fine

Unfortunately as I discovered recently, they can go without much warning. But I've come to think of the big bearing as a consumable.

I have also since wondered if my riding around with the topbox all the time shortened the life of mine. The topbox is quite heavy...

West coast gser · Sep 10, 2017

Slipperyeel said:
Sounds like you'll be just fine

Unfortunately as I discovered recently, they can go without much warning. But I've come to think of the big bearing as a consumable.

I have also since wondered if my riding around with the topbox all the time shortened the life of mine. The topbox is quite heavy...

Yeah Ive came to that conclusion re bearing ..was a bit pissed

@ it going but then thought its only about £100 for the parts that last 50,000 miles comparing that to a chain driven bike to do that mileage it would go thru about 3 sets of c+s kits @ £150 a time and the associated faffing about lubing and adjusting ..

kennyc · Sep 10, 2017

West coast gser said:
Yeah Ive came to that conclusion re bearing ..was a bit pissed @ it going but then thought its only about £100 for the parts that last 50,000 miles comparing that to a chain driven bike to do that mileage it would go thru about 3 sets of c+s kits @ £150 a time and the associated faffing about lubing and adjusting ..

that is my thinking as well, I sold mine on a couple of years after the repair, but 4 years on from the repair the bike has just managed a 1400 mile weekend with us into France and not a murmer from the bearing (thank God :beer:

)
PS put the big bearing in the oven for 10 mins before fitting they just drop on !

West coast gser · Sep 11, 2017

Just finished putting it all back together .&#55357;&#56397; soooo smooth now &#55357;&#56397;&#55357;&#56898;

Slipperyeel · Sep 11, 2017

Great! God job

While working on mine this weekend (new clutch slave cylinder) I was turning the rear wheel with the caliper off. I was super impressed how smooth it was (it too has a new bearing as of 26 July!). It's useful to know how it should be. I'm not sure it was that smooth in the weeks before it failed, but in future, I'll won't be accepting anything less than silky smooth

West coast gser · Sep 12, 2017

Slipperyeel said:
Great! God job

While working on mine this weekend (new clutch slave cylinder) I was turning the rear wheel with the caliper off. I was super impressed how smooth it was (it too has a new bearing as of 26 July!). It's useful to know how it should be. I'm not sure it was that smooth in the weeks before it failed, but in future, I'll won't be accepting anything less than silky smooth

Yeah seeing as I've had jap bikes I just thought BMWs were clunky grindy whirry machines it was normal

now I know what it should be like

R1100GS Final Drive Bearing

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