Gael Warnings in West Africa.

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Plastic bag with white contents......:eek:

Suspicious
 
Tea without sugar is anathema in W Africa....You are over-thinking this!


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Kedougou where I amnow is a gold mining town and it's Satuynught so unsurprisingly there are some scantily clad local gold diggers (female) at the bar, no doubt on a mercy mission to the local miners!
Time for an early night with a good book... Tomorrow is a long ride into Mali.


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After yesterday's battery incident I decided to check the voltage and it's a paltry 12.24 volts.

Although my online search says voltage is a poor proxy for charging ability (remember electricity is a source of wonder and awe to ignorant me).

Well I have brimmed the petrol tank and put 4 litres in the jerry can in preparation for the 400 kms to Kita although I am told there is fuel onthe way. I can't be doing with fuel anxiety as well as battery anxiety

A contact has given me some hope that I may be able to replace the battery in Bamako...But whether I can get a big GS size battery is anyone's guess! 🤞🏼

I have also done my laundry as it seems have most of the local population judging by what's out to dry by the river
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(Yes that's laundry not litter!)


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So after my 'rest day' in Kedougou complete with 60kms of dirt roads NOT to see the Dindefelo waterfalls (don't ask!) it was time to set off early on Sunday morning for the longish ride into Mali.

I got away to a cool morning at 0800 and had a smooth run to the Mali border (apart from some sandy deviations. There I met this amiable codger/dodger

He assured me that a laissez passer was charged at triple time on a Sunday! I refused to pay so we sat together watching some Guinean dancers on his TV and chatting about monogamy (ie me) and polygamy (him). He did offer me the chance to return the next day when the normal rate would prevail!

Eventually I crumbled and paid the extra 15€ (for which he gave me a full receipt but I remain sceptical especially in an Islamic country!). I was aware I had a lot of road to cover.



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Sorry internet here not allowing me to load photos so you will have to use your imagination.

In any case I did not get a photo of the most extraordinary incident of the day , my hitchhiker hawk.

At one point the road was surrounded on both sides by burning bush (presumably for agricultural preparations). Numerous hawks were standing on the tarmac waiting for their side orders of small singed animals to race out of the fire to them.

They were clearly not expecting me to bowl along and there was much fluttering and some contact.

About a kilometre later I spotted a beautiful wing sticking out from the dash of the bike. I stood up and could see the hawk's head and yellow beak so I slowed down to remove the carcass.

As I slowed down, blow me but a whole live hawk emerged from the space in front of the bars and flew off from my moving bike - I was gobsmacked but glad he had survived.




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Quick technical update from Bamako, Mali which I left this morning.

Although I am failing to get enough internet to post pictures, I did have a minor triumph on the moto technical front.

Readers may remember that I have been havbattery issues of sorts since the extreme heat of the Sahara last October. The WhatsApp post below updates:

'So got to Bamako about 12. Met Zerbo who is a police motorcycle instructor and member of the presidential escort team. Recommended by 2 people here. He took the GS to the police workshop about 2.45 pm and has just returned it at 18h30 after:

Fitting new sealed battery
Engine oil and filter change (semisynthetic) and drive shaft oil change (lost viscosity)
New air filter
Fix headlamps and ignition switch wiring fault, including fitting new insides to the fried ignition barrel to retain the same key.
Inspection of gearbox oil, says it's fine.
Then showed me a video of the service operation which was very thorough!
He loves the 1150 and calls it 'unburstable' and says mine is in good shape. (Although work bike now an FJR, was an 1150 then a 1200).
So the Sahara clearly bashed the bike but now it should be back on form!

And a day later I can say it has run nicely as I head NE from Bamako in 32C temperature - with the old battery sat on the pillion platform in reserve!


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this is the dodgy geezer at the Mali border who charged me triple time for his laborious writing of Customs form ie my laissez passer!




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A few more snaps whilst I have internet
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In Bafing National Park ;above)

Great to see hills, bends and crags after flatness of Senegal
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I tracked the Kayes/Bamako railway (2 services a week is their self-confessed aspiration!)
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Terrible congestion:
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I decided to stop at Kita at about 3pm as it was hot and I was tired. It was only another 180 km to Bamako and the Sleepy Camel but I try to make it a rule to stop as soon as I feel tired. (When next day I rode the last 180 kms, which were horrific as we approached Bamako and with horrific traffic congestion in the big capital city, I realised the wisdom of my rule and decision.

But as a result I stayed in a real dump in Kita (albeit their best, the auberge touristique) .

Breakfast was a piece of bread so about 10 I topped up with a roadside breakfast of noodles lentils and gravy.... Delicious!
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I was delighted to find a DHL package awaiting me in Bamako with my drivers licence in it , that I had carefully forgotten at home! Apparently I was lucky to get it so soon as another person's DHL parcel had gone to Malawi and then another country before getting to the Mali!

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Took a stroll over the Niger bridge



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Some impressive 4*4s although the Estonian owner said they had driven all the way here and beyond to Benin mainly on tarmac...But it looks the part!

This bike was abandoned there in a hurry when the 2012 coup occurred
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All applications to restore it and ride it away, to Phil Paoletta at the Sleepy Camel, Bamako!


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Today was a leisurely day before the next stage of the trip.

A pirogue ride

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Seems like every day is washday:
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These guys are hauling sand from the river bed to fill their pirogue and bring to the bank for house building...Talk about laborious work!

The Hotel de France looks disused but to my surprise they still have rooms available
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For those thinking of travelling in this region, it seems you can buy a new 125 like this for about 550-600 euros with a further 10 euros to register it.
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And I spent an agreeable half-hour watching a series of these bikes and 50 cc bikes being carried onto pirogues to cross the Niger... Something I can't imagine happening with an 1150 GS like mine!


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The ride report that keeps giving.... :clap :clap :clap

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Thanks Ash. WiFi pretty scarce over the next few days but here's yesterday's and today's example of what I mean
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Waiting for a ferry in the Niger delta
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And a rather wet ride to get on or off. On the arrival I was glad the GS airinlet is high...As I got very wet legs!

I was the only big vehicle so they wanted to wait for a car ....Of which there was so little prospect I had to double the fare for an immediate departure!
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Meanwhile these two boatmen just lift the 125s I to their pirogue and off the go
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At least I had time to make a few friends
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And as all GSers know, the 1150 is a real. bird magnet!
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Parked in a quiet courtyard I had time to check the bike:

Battery 12.8 volts
Tyre pressures both spot on (by accident...I have only done the kick test since I started in Banjul)
Oil level good (as it should be after an oil change!)
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