Adjusting switchgear position

Sootyvandriver

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Decided today to adjust the position of the handelbar switch gear. The right hand side always seemed a bit of a reach to cancel the indicator or operate the starter button. This coupled with fingers like Cows T*ts and a crush injury to my hand a few years ago was causing problems for me.
I have rotated the cluster so the cancel lever is lower and now it seems much more natural and accessible. Fueled by my success and my slightly ocd desire for symmetry I decided to do the same with the left hand side.
However it seems this side is pinned through the handlebar by a small bolt and is not adjustable. Can anyone confirm if it is possible to adjust the left side switchgear position?
Also the left side switch cluster does not seem to be as firmly fixed to the handlebar, Slight movement can be felt by applying fairly light rotational pressure. Is this normal?

Thanks for any help
 
My 2005 GS have 2 screws party hidden under the rubber grip, holding the switchgear in a fixed position. On the side of the left switchgear there is a small tab that goes into the mirror clamp gap to hold it fixed with no movement on the grip and swgear. The tab is small and easy to overlook.
 
Thanks Zigo, That confirms what I suspected. I had spotted the tab on the mirror clamp and its correctly located.
I will live with the switch position.
 
It's another annoying tradition. BMW have always used the heated grip to carry the switch casing.

It's even more annoying because the LHS casing looks like it has mouldings to take a bar clamp like the RHS. But BMW like tradition, so we are stuck with one size fits all.

On the upside - The thumb controlled dip-switch becomes even more awkward to use when the switch is lowered more than a few mm. I found that while messing about with Renthal handlebars

I cannot get along with BMW's handlebar sweep. For my liking, the OEM bar puts too much angle towards the rider. Rolled forwards, it strained my thumb joints. Rolled back, it had me sitting bolt upright suffering back ache. Solution was a Renthal FatBar. I chose a low rise McGrath bend with Rox Anti vibe risers but the OEM BMW (GSA) bar rise is pretty typical for Renthals.

Drilling the left handlebar was not an option at least until I'd found the best position for the switchgear. An aluminium sheet bracket trapped under the mirror mount and a self tapper screwed to the switch body solved the problem. I've still not got around to drilling the handlebar.
 
Thanks for the reply, I have only had the bike for a month so its possible that things will improve with more mileage under my belt. Night riding will be fun with my stumpy fat fingers prodding at the main/dip beam switch, that's before we factor in the crap headlights.:toungincheek
 
I really have never gelled with the dip switch but TBH I don’t like thumb switches. IMO, they are ok for indicators but not much else.

BMW fitted a pair of 50 watt aux headlights to the GSA. We call them spots but they have a dipped beam pattern.
Then they are on you know the main beam is on by the blue warning lamp. It’s that bad.

I fitted Les Wassall HiDs. They were very good but when a burner packed up, I fitted LED bulbs. They are just as good.
There is a thread on the subject.
Get the fan cooled type they are easier to close the headlamp casing.
 


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