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Thread: Nordkapp via Adversity....

  1. #17
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    Day 21 Thursday Mogard to Stavanger.

    What a day. first choice of route was still closed as anticipated but according to the local website the 2nd option, which was R51, was open and sure enough the green road open lights were on as we entered the route so all was good. First few miles it was lovely, sunny, great scenery, very little traffic but enough going in both directions to indicate it was open.

    However as we climbed conditions quickly deteriorated, visibility dropped from miles to metres, blue skies turned dark grey and the lovely dry road surface developed a white carpet of snow. This went on for miles, up and over the top of the pass. Roz sat so very, very, still and the tyres were just outstanding. However we were both painfully aware that the 2 articulated lorries that we had passed earlier would be getting closer and anything coming towards us would see us about as late as we would see them. Once we got back below the snowline the weather remained cold and damp.

    We joined the E16 at Ryfoss, this passes through the Laerdal Tunnel which is the worlds longest road tunnel at 15.25 miles long. We followed the E16 to Vossevangen, over the Hardanger Bridge and along the Hardangerfjord towards a place called Odda. This is a very narrow road often almost down to single track but nevertheless it is the main route that is used by any vehicle including articulated lorries. This was probably the most frustratingly slow stretch of road that we encountered in Norway. We sat in a queue of traffic that had to stop constantly to let big vehicles work out how to get past each other. Matters were made worse by a long stretch of road works that had turned the road into little more than a very muddy farm track.

    Once passed Odda conditions improved and we turned onto the E134 at Skare and stayed on this road to Haugsund with a short ferry across to Stavanger. This region proved to be well worth another visit when we have more time.

    We arrived at Stavanger 11 hrs after leaving the campsite and rode straight into the loading queue for the ferry with 30 minutes to spare. We had a cabin on this overnight crossing and can honestly say neither of us knows what the crossing was like.

    The following images were taken on the R51 to Beitostølen.... there is time difference of about 30 minutes between first and last.....at that point conditions got very bad and we stopped taking pictures and concentrated staying on the road!

    118 by Phil Perks, on Flickr

    120 by Phil Perks, on Flickr

    121 by Phil Perks, on Flickr

    122 by Phil Perks, on Flickr

    123 by Phil Perks, on Flickr

    124 by Phil Perks, on Flickr

    124a by Phil Perks, on Flickr
    Inside the Laerdal Tunnel (Google Image)

    124b by Phil Perks, on Flickr
    Tvindefossen waterfall

    124d by Phil Perks, on Flickr
    Hardanger Bridge (Google Image)

  2. #18
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    Day 22 Hirtshals to Mulhousen

    It was easy riding down through Denmark and all was going ok until we came to the never ending roadworks that start North of Hamburg and go on for miles. Absolutely horrendous, it was just as bad in 2014 and they do not seem to have made any progress. We did still manage to arrive at the Hotel Krauter in the afternoon and had a rest before dinner. Been to this hotel before and we were looking forward to treating ourselves to a meal in the rather nice restaurant they have here.

  3. #19
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    Day 23 Mulhousen to Zuienkerke, Belgium

    Much easier day today, we used the route via Netherlands again, rather than round Essen, it is so much easier. The hotel was ok and we had massive spare ribs and some good Belgian beer.

  4. #20
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    Day 24 Home

    What can you say about the last day of a trip…..we arrived home where we were met by one of our sons and grandson and he even cooked up a lovely Sunday roast for us.

    We had a tremendous trip that we will talk and think and remember for all the years to come…….but….and there is a but. This was our “big trip” when we planned it, through circumstance we did not get to do the trip we had intended to do. Yes we achieved the ultimate goal which was to get to Nordkapp, we saw Northern Lights, Reindeer, Moose, Otters and indescribable scenery, but the race to get home again meant that we had to rush passed a great chunk of Norway including Lofoten, Trollstigen, and Lyseboten. So is there unfinished business in Norway…..we think so.

    We clocked 5233 miles in three weeks - with 2410 of those miles in the last six days, and in total we made 38 fuel stops.

    127 by Phil Perks, on Flickr

    128 by Phil Perks, on Flickr

    129 by Phil Perks, on Flickr

    129b by Phil Perks, on Flickr

  5. #21
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    How did you manage to have so much luggage on the bike? When I first saw the pic of the bike loaded to the gunwhales and beyond, I had assume that it was all camping gear. But you were staying in cabins and hotels. It looked very top heavy

    On reflection, did you feel that you took too much stuff?

  6. #22
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    What a really nice write up, next trip already planned ?

    Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk

  7. #23
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    Great ride report. Thanks for sharing it. I have to say that is one very scary top box/carrier you have there!

  8. #24
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    Enjoyed that guys thank you.

    I was one of those poor unfortunates who only saw Nordkapp shrouded in cloud and mist on my recent trip.

    Your RR just makes me want to go back again next year.

  9. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by paul08 View Post
    How did you manage to have so much luggage on the bike? When I first saw the pic of the bike loaded to the gunwhales and beyond, I had assume that it was all camping gear. But you were staying in cabins and hotels. It looked very top heavy

    On reflection, did you feel that you took too much stuff?
    The lomo bag on the top box contained just camping gear, two sleeping bags and a small backpacker tent for emergency use. Although we stayed in huttes, you need your own sleeping bags.

    Ironically the only gear we didn't use, was the electric clothing....pretty much just down to how good the weather was. The bike was too top heavy - in hindsight we should have not used the top box and just used the Lomo bag. Something we'll do for future trips.

  10. #26
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    What a great read to start my weekend, well done to you both. The problems, accidents and slip ups are frustrating at the time but always looked back on as a positive when back in our homes. You rightly say you saw and experienced great things due to the delays you had, what a wonderfully optimistic couple you are

    All the best for the future and thanks for taking the time to post.

    JimmyMac

  11. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tractors are go View Post
    What a really nice write up, next trip already planned ?

    Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk
    Thanks for the comments. We're discussing options for next year although nothing of the scale of Nordkapp. Certainly another trip to Norway in the next few years to do the things we had to miss this year.

  12. #28
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    Thanks for taking the time to put together.

    Some really good photo's there.

    Well, that's at least two trips badly affected by final drive failures this year. My trip wasn't as ambitious as yours, but it was the first time we'd been able to do a longish trip together for several years - it's not like we get the chance to do this sort of thing every few months. I assume you had the complete FD replaced; mind if I ask the total cost? Did you experience a different level of BMW dealer customer service than that you're accustomed to with UK dealers? (I certainly did!)

  13. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tricky View Post
    Enjoyed that guys thank you.

    I was one of those poor unfortunates who only saw Nordkapp shrouded in cloud and mist on my recent trip.

    Your RR just makes me want to go back again next year.
    Thanks Tricky...we were thinking of your ride there, and how lucky we were with the weather. The locals reckon September is usually good weather, but it's a bit of a lottery.

  14. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyMac View Post
    What a great read to start my weekend, well done to you both. The problems, accidents and slip ups are frustrating at the time but always looked back on as a positive when back in our homes. You rightly say you saw and experienced great things due to the delays you had, what a wonderfully optimistic couple you are

    All the best for the future and thanks for taking the time to post.

    JimmyMac
    Many thanks for the comments - glad you enjoyed the report.

  15. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Ford View Post
    Thanks for taking the time to put together.

    Some really good photo's there.

    Well, that's at least two trips badly affected by final drive failures this year. My trip wasn't as ambitious as yours, but it was the first time we'd been able to do a longish trip together for several years - it's not like we get the chance to do this sort of thing every few months. I assume you had the complete FD replaced; mind if I ask the total cost? Did you experience a different level of BMW dealer customer service than that you're accustomed to with UK dealers? (I certainly did!)
    Thanks for the comments. As far as I'm concerned the FD is pretty much the only weak point on these bikes, which is why we replaced the bearing and seal just before we left.

    So we were surprised when it went again. I'm going to get it checked out by over the winter to make sure everything is as it should be. The guys at Tromso Motors were first class and couldn't have been more helpful. They are primarily a harley dealership but also sell bmw.

    The new FD was an eye watering £1650 fitted. Silly money but cheaper than the four grand Carole Nash wanted off us.

  16. #32
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    So, may I ask: if you had accident/mechancal breakdown recovery insurance, why did the company involved refuse to recover you? Any pointers we should all take note of regarding checking our cover?

    The breadth of cover offered is one of the reasons I am with the ADAC

    And thanks for your response to my earlier post. Having re-read what I wrote, I should have phrased it better as I did nt want to come across as in your face. I have a long running battle with both myself and SWMBO to pack light and try not to have every possible outcome covered. Two up, the bike is already too top heavy when manouevering etc

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