Twin cam tension tools for setting timing.. anyone got any?

beaver

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Just wondering if anyone has the tooling for the cam chains,, basically, what they do is replace the existing tensioners but account for the fact that they don't have oil pressure behind them when the engine is stopped.. so add additional pressure for setting the cams...
Don't want to take anything in bits if I can't re-set the thing.... obviously I can mark the existing positions if no one has anything…
 
no one :tumbleweed wow.. anyone found a way to cheat the system... screwing a fixed bolt into a given depth / torque / turns from contact??...

Or are we saying no one except a Dealer has had the heads off of a twin cam yet????? I can't believe that...
 
I did replace a rhd cilinder and piston. Didn't use the tension tool, what I did use was a tool to lock the camshafts. Checked the timing after a few k km and no off timing was measurable nor noticeable.
There is a thread about it on adv rider.
But why do you want to open it? Ain't fix if it ain't broken

http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/1100029/
 
I did replace a rhd cilinder and piston. Didn't use the tension tool, what I did use was a tool to lock the camshafts. Checked the timing after a few k km and no off timing was measurable nor noticeable.
There is a thread about it on adv rider.
But why do you want to open it? Ain't fix if it ain't broken

http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/1100029/

Yes.. thanks for that, when I first checked one side to the other, I tought it was a tad out... but having re-checked and put some weight where the tensioners are, they are actualy knob on.. but goes to show, the oil pressure in the tensioner does move the timing slightly when its gone and just under spring pressure.
 
Yes.. thanks for that, when I first checked one side to the other, I tought it was a tad out... but having re-checked and put some weight where the tensioners are, they are actualy knob on.. but goes to show, the oil pressure in the tensioner does move the timing slightly when its gone and just under spring pressure.
I think that you are right about the tensioner and that it has a marginal impact on the timing. However I set the timing without the tool as I didn't have it. What I didn't like was the way the sprocket is mounted on the camshaft. No unequal bolt pattern or something like that, just one bolt. timing and stay on time is just based on the friction between the sprocket and shaft. Little bit hard to explain but you will notice it if you have worked on camshaft systems on other bikes.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn G3121 met Tapatalk
 
Your right, and most modern cars ar like that now also, just friction to drive the cams. That said, the valves are all 5mm stems also no, so no real mass to drive... its all very cheap and nasty in my mind.. I'd expect at least a tapper drive?
 
How would the tensioner change the timing? The timing depends on the drive-side, the tensioner is on the non-drive side....Set the timing with the sack taken up on the drive side..
If it is like my 2010 TC model, i set it using a straight edge to set and align the cams.
 
I think that you are right about the tensioner and that it has a marginal impact on the timing. However I set the timing without the tool as I didn't have it. What I didn't like was the way the sprocket is mounted on the camshaft. No unequal bolt pattern or something like that, just one bolt. timing and stay on time is just based on the friction between the sprocket and shaft. Little bit hard to explain but you will notice it if you have worked on camshaft systems on other bikes.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn G3121 met Tapatalk

Incorrect timing can make a big difference. Even more when there are two cams. A worn cam chain might put the timing out but it’s likely the tensioning system will be at its limit around the same time.
Even with light valves, the springs have to be compressed. At low speed that can be a heavy load on the chain/belt/gears. At higher revs the loads even out.
 
How would the tensioner change the timing? The timing depends on the drive-side, the tensioner is on the non-drive side....Set the timing with the sack taken up on the drive side..
If it is like my 2010 TC model, i set it using a straight edge to set and align the cams.
Just a guess, but could it be that the tension tool keeps the pressure on the whole chain? By using the tool you guarantee that slack is on the non drive side and not on the drive side. Without the tool it could be that there is slack on both sides, I guess. However I did no use it, and set the timing by using a camshaft tool AND rotating the engine in the right direction, to make sure that the slack is on the non drive side. Now after a year still running.
 
I guess you could have the cams out 1-2 deg and it would not matter... the tools just tensions the system as if oil pressure was in the tensioner so you can get it spot on... I'd guess a bolt in contact the turned another 90 deg or so would do the same job...
 
Cam locking tool (jig) for 2012-2013 hexhead?

Can anyone tell me what the part number is for the cam locking tool otherwise known as a camshaft alignment jig for the hexhead R1200GS years 2010 to 2013?

Thank you.

Matt
 
no one :tumbleweed wow.. anyone found a way to cheat the system... screwing a fixed bolt into a given depth / torque / turns from contact??...

Or are we saying no one except a Dealer has had the heads off of a twin cam yet????? I can't believe that...

Have you ever considered joining Harley Davidson Riders Club of Great Britain (HDRCGB)? They have a huge collection of specialised Harley tools that they lend out to members for free. Just a thought. :nenau www.hdrcgb.org
 


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