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Beer mat drawings
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yamonda1
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Enjoying watching these builds take shape 
Weekday Rider
Registered user
When I win the Lotto, you will be building the bike of my dreams. I'm going to start buying Lotto tickets............... Maybe. You are a genius, coming from someone can't nail two bits of wood together let alone weld . Can't wait to see it finished, I recon bar risers might be required if it were mine. 
. Can't wait to see it finished, I recon bar risers might be required if it were mine. 
When I win the Lotto, you will be building the bike of my dreams. I'm going to start buying Lotto tickets............... Maybe. You are a genius, coming from someone can't nail two bits of wood together let alone weld
Mikeyboy will be building me this when i win the lotto
well i can dream
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I saw something like that in Aberdeen today. Verrrrrry nice!
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Looking good.
Is the r/h shock mount and swinging arm/bevel box spacer all one piece?
It looks like its in 2 pieces with a little blob of weld just visible in front of the oil filler?
Is the r/h shock mount and swinging arm/bevel box spacer all one piece?
It looks like its in 2 pieces with a little blob of weld just visible in front of the oil filler?
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2peices of machined billet welded together
Hi MikeWe have modded swinging arms
Cooler than a cool thing
Mistacat magic
How are you going to extend the drive shaft,I’ve extended mine by 75mm,but I’m a bit nervous of it failing.
I’ve used an unbrako 16 mm socket head bolt,using the plain shank as a 75 mm make up piece, I turned a spigot on each end then pressed it into the 2 halves, I machined a weld prep on both joins and then welded the both up.
I’m interested to see your method.
I extended the drive dogs that the taper on the drive shaft fits in to.
Machined some 50 mm o/d 6 mm wall CDS. parted the drive dog in half and pressed them into the CDS ( Shrink interference fit) then tig welded them keeping them cool enough not to damage the heat treatment.
Mike will hopefully post some photos for you.
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I’ll post some pics tomorrow
Worth noting though ,
I did source 3x earlier type drive shafts ,the taper type without the shock absorber made the job of extending them a lot simpler .
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Some photos ,
To make things a lot simpler,rather than try to extend the shafts,with the associated worry of a breakage,I sourced some early type shafts and Chris has extended the drive spline,as this type just bolts together on a taper we are not hampered with the depth of the fixing as we would be with the spline and snap ring,also because this part sits inside the alloy extension we have no clearance issues.
Hope this makes sense
To make things a lot simpler,rather than try to extend the shafts,with the associated worry of a breakage,I sourced some early type shafts and Chris has extended the drive spline,as this type just bolts together on a taper we are not hampered with the depth of the fixing as we would be with the spline and snap ring,also because this part sits inside the alloy extension we have no clearance issues.
Hope this makes sense
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Whilst I fully appreciate we have added a fair bit of unsprung weight,if this was a massive concern we would not be messing with shaft drive motorbikes
I know it's close to the bolt hole Mike , but I would " v" the ends of that out and return the weld right round so there is no open end to start a fracture , to close for mig , but easy to do with TIG
2 ps worth ( ps spent my work life fabricating ,and also alloy boats) 
Ps need to get the parrafin pony down as its running a bit rough now
2 ps worth ( ps spent my work life fabricating ,and also alloy boats
) Ps need to get the parrafin pony down as its running a bit rough now
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Not heavy duty enough thenI know it's close to the bolt hole Mike , but I would " v" the ends of that out and return the weld right round so there is no open end to start a fracture , to close for mig , but easy to do with TIG
2 ps worth ( ps spent my work life fabricating ,and also alloy boats
Ps need to get the parrafin pony down as its running a bit rough now
Impressive engineering skills lads. Imagine what you chaps could achieve in the service sector! 
I would agree if the joint was under tension, but as it is under compression I see no problem with the weld considering the stock fixture is a stud.
Main reason for not welding the ends are that I would have to weld one end then machine that face true to the original then carry out the process on the other end.
No point when there is already sufficient strength.
Main reason for not welding the ends are that I would have to weld one end then machine that face true to the original then carry out the process on the other end.
No point when there is already sufficient strength.
I know it's close to the bolt hole Mike , but I would " v" the ends of that out and return the weld right round so there is no open end to start a fracture , to close for mig , but easy to do with TIG
2 ps worth ( ps spent my work life fabricating ,and also alloy boats
Ps need to get the parrafin pony down as its running a bit rough now
I would agree if the joint was under tension, but as it is under compression I see no problem with the weld considering the stock fixture is a stud.
Main reason for not welding the ends are that I would have to weld one end then machine that face true to the original then carry out the process on the other end.
No point when there is already sufficient strength.
