Project XChallenge

All the parts for powder coating sorted and dropped off .....

25837014028_e2174e319a_b.jpg


39677875392_6a0710c253_b.jpg


25837016708_6d25e40ae5_b.jpg


Bags of parts all cleaned , refurbished , labelled up and ready for re-assembly

38999844684_a719fff72c_b.jpg
 
It's certainly in bits now.. :D
But I spose there are far less parts than most bikes, with it being a rather basic design.. ;)
 
Got a few little jobs done today - Sprocket carrier bearings removed and front and rear brake calipers stripped , cleaned and rebuilt with new seals

38849264625_f28e2dabd5_b.jpg


Replacement wheel bearings (Front & Rear) are:

20X42X12 so SKF explorer 6004-2RSH/C3

Sprocket carrier/cush drive are incorrectly listed on BMW fiche , they list 20X42X12 and they are in fact 25X47X12 so SKF explorer 6005-2RSH/C3

27968680569_a34ae20af3_b.jpg


[
39715899052_107ab5ea9b_b.jpg
 
Enjoying the strip & rebuild......:thumb
 
Ready for my XC..
Progressive springs.
Once it warns up, sadly busted bones & cold garages ain't fun.. :(
 

Attachments

  • FB_IMG_1516382624181.jpg
    FB_IMG_1516382624181.jpg
    41.6 KB · Views: 375
  • FB_IMG_1516382628217.jpg
    FB_IMG_1516382628217.jpg
    54 KB · Views: 394
Ready for my XC..
Progressive springs.
Once it warns up, sadly busted bones & cold garages ain't fun.. :(

You need a thin spanner to hold the locknut under the top cap as it needs to fit between the spring coils . Also loosen the top cap whilst the forks are in the fork bridge on the bike unless you have a spare bridge to use on the bench to clamp the fork leg

24912916107_bd0f9c45c6_b.jpg
 
You need a thin spanner to hold the locknut under the top cap as it needs to fit between the spring coils . Also loosen the top cap whilst the forks are in the fork bridge on the bike unless you have a spare bridge to use on the bench to clamp the fork leg

24912916107_bd0f9c45c6_b.jpg

Great help thanks sire..
Must admit I haven't looked into fitting them yet.
I do have a workshop disc, but haven't loaded it into puter yet as all the jobs I have done I did on my last one.
( that I should of kept ) :blast

:thumb
 
Great help thanks sire..
Must admit I haven't looked into fitting them yet.
I do have a workshop disc, but haven't loaded it into puter yet as all the jobs I have done I did on my last one.
( that I should of kept ) :blast

:thumb

19mm spanner btw - I used a spare pedal bike cone spanner and filed it to correct size..

25911004608_c7c058e685_b.jpg
 
Well - I'm glad that's done : re-wrapped the wiring loom with cloth loom tape and dielectric greased all of the connectors . All ready to go back on now - just need the frame back from the powder coaters and re-assembley can begin......

25943340448_49dd2914cf_b.jpg
 
Well - I'm glad that's done : re-wrapped the wiring loom with cloth loom tape and dielectric greased all of the connectors . All ready to go back on now - just need the frame back from the powder coaters and re-assembley can begin......

25943340448_49dd2914cf_b.jpg

Proper job. ( in a West Country accent ) ;)
 
Sprocket carrier bearings and seal fitted and nice new shiny fork guards fitted . At a halt now until I get the frame back from Powder coating - hopefully Tuesday . Still got the wheels with Roy Thursby being sorted , all the panels at Saragon Custom Painting being treated to a new colour scheme and the seat at Saddlecraft being recovered and a gel insert added

]
24946977637_0791634341_b.jpg


39107365924_a85b96c821_b.jpg


28038577669_9a919d240a_b.jpg
 
We're did sire get the fork guards from, if I may ask..?
 
You need a thin spanner to hold the locknut under the top cap as it needs to fit between the spring coils . Also loosen the top cap whilst the forks are in the fork bridge on the bike unless you have a spare bridge to use on the bench to clamp the fork leg

If I may offer my two penneth .... keep the fork clamped in the lower yoke, but slacken the top clamping bolts off, when you try to undo the alloy top nut! Otherwise the top clamp, if still tight, holds the top nut sufficiently to stop you loosening it, resulting in buggering the nice alloy top nut :eek:

Don't ask me how I know .... :blast

:beerjug:
 
If I may offer my two penneth .... keep the fork clamped in the lower yoke, but slacken the top clamping bolts off, when you try to undo the alloy top nut! Otherwise the top clamp, if still tight, holds the top nut sufficiently to stop you loosening it, resulting in buggering the nice alloy top nut :eek:

Don't ask me how I know .... :blast

:beerjug:

Yup - i agree - on my first G650 XMoto - I did the same and had to replace one very expensive top cover
 
Standard BMW part for the XChallenge , item 3 on the diagram :

39785912632_2e2d426cf3_b.jpg

Cheers me dear...
I spose the X Challenge being more off road biased it would make sense to add protection...
 
If I may offer my two penneth .... keep the fork clamped in the lower yoke, but slacken the top clamping bolts off, when you try to undo the alloy top nut! Otherwise the top clamp, if still tight, holds the top nut sufficiently to stop you loosening it, resulting in buggering the nice alloy top nut :eek:

Don't ask me how I know .... :blast

:beerjug:

Yup - i agree - on my first G650 XMoto - I did the same and had to replace one very expensive top cover


Good point gents..
Thankee kindly..
 
Just got the parts from Powder coating back - very pleased with them . Just need to remove the masking tape , blanking plugs etc and tap out all of the holes , clean up bores then I can start on re-assembley.....

39858023491_699edd471f_b.jpg


39825811522_4bbf72cda6_b.jpg


24987104747_19f6a63719_b.jpg


24987104707_22d947fcce_b.jpg


24987104617_8146845050_b.jpg


39825811152_4cf5a23d5f_b.jpg


25984700088_6ffd90cefc_b.jpg


39858022881_f3bd85959e_b.jpg
 


Back
Top Bottom