Fuel strip spoof resistor question

Bendy toy said:

I just bought ordinary resistors from eBay. They worked.
35 ohm is the value of the fuel strip heater. Yours should measure out as ok.
2K ohm is the value of full tank. A broken strip measures infinity.
An empty tank is a higher value but to get the reading the engine has to be running so it’s a pain to collect accurate data.
I have no idea why it needs the 2 meg bias value.

Push the 35 Ohm resistor tails into the 1 and 4 contact pins. They happen to be a good fit. 40 ohm should also work.

Cut the wires off another 35 and push them into pins 2 and 3

Solder the 2K resistor between pins 2 and 3

Solder the 1meg between pins 3 and 4.

Wrap in self amalgamating tape.

http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/fuel-strip-fix.844902/page-12

If the 35 ohm can’t handle the current it will fail but mine was ok.

I’ve been making an adjustable circuit to work out the tank full and empty values across pins 2 & 3 but got sidelined by other stuff.

Click to expand...

flo3flo said:

So, 4 resistors in total. The link to the other forum shows 3.
Cheers

Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk

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flo3flo said:

I went to Maplins before they closed down and bought some resistors required to do the well known spoof.
My 2008 GS has the annoying 'no fuel' warning and yellow triangle problem.
Unfortunately Maplins dont do 39 or 43 ohm resistors in 1 or 2 watts. They only had half watt ones.
I have read on another forum that the heater element requires 1 or 2 watt resistors. They did have the other half watt 1meg and 2k ones so I bought them.

I did try them anyway, but nothing happened....started the bike, ran until hot. Not even the bottom 'heater element' chunk on the bottom of the fuel indicator display.

I can only assume that the 39 or 43 ohm resistor must have to be more than half a watt for the ECU to 'see' the (spoofed) heater element before sending some current.

I have ordered some higher wattage resistors to try. If I simply connect one to terminal 1 and 4 on the fuel strip connector (on its own), should the bottom chunk on the display appear?

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Denz0 said:

Hi
I have just find out that one bloke in Poland developed small pcb that can convert fuel strip back to float/resistor type
Friend of mine ordered that week ago and we are waiting...
also he bought fuel pump from 2012 model with the float type sensor
This could be permanent fix for fuel strip
apparently this little device translates the signal and must be calibrated like a normal strip...
Soon as I get my hands on that I will crate nice report !

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Bendy toy said:

It's probably an Arduino circuit.

https://quasarelectronics.co.uk/Category/arduino-project-board-kits-modules

The issue is knowing what outputs the OEM controller expects to see from the fuel strip. Mine has an open circuit sensing track so getting reliable full and empty values is not possible. We know that 2000 ohms = full but we don't know if 2,200 or 1800 will do the same job and no clue what will give an empty reading. Ive knocked together a variable resistor setup to try and find the values but (it seems anyway) the fuel level sensing only works when the bike is moving so not easy to tweak accurately.

Click to expand...

Tractors are go said:

Could you not get "The" engineer to run alongside you taking samplings as you ride along ? I'd pay the fuel bill !

On a less serious note;

What about doing it on a rolling road, would that be able to give qualitative readings ?

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

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Tractors are go said:

Could you not get "The" engineer to run alongside you taking samplings as you ride along ? I'd pay the fuel bill !

On a less serious note;

What about doing it on a rolling road, would that be able to give qualitative readings ?

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

Bendy toy said:

Absolutely but my pocket dynamometer needs a hardware upgrade so its offline for the time being.

Click to expand...

Bendy toy said:

I just bought ordinary resistors from eBay. They worked.
35 ohm is the value of the fuel strip heater. Yours should measure out as ok.
2K ohm is the value of full tank. A broken strip measures infinity.
An empty tank is a higher value but to get the reading the engine has to be running so it’s a pain to collect accurate data.
I have no idea why it needs the 2 meg bias value.

Push the 35 Ohm resistor tails into the 1 and 4 contact pins. They happen to be a good fit. 40 ohm should also work.

Cut the wires off another 35 and push them into pins 2 and 3

Solder the 2K resistor between pins 2 and 3

Solder the 1meg between pins 3 and 4.

Wrap in self amalgamating tape.

http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/fuel-strip-fix.844902/page-12

If the 35 ohm can’t handle the current it will fail but mine was ok.

I’ve been making an adjustable circuit to work out the tank full and empty values across pins 2 & 3 but got sidelined by other stuff.

Click to expand...

Bendy toy said:

It’s up there with pocket power shower and portable 13A socket.

The variable tank spoofer just needs a bypass resistor (to reduce sensitivity) and a longer connecting lead. Then I’ll blutak it to the petrol cap and take it for a spin.

Click to expand...