Fuel Strip to float conversion

simonsGSA

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Hi All, ages since i posted here, so much so i lost my origional details.. anyhow...

I have fitted a float from a late GSA to my 08 GSA and bought one of those magic devices which performs the conversion. Unfortunately something isn't right........

I know my float has the correct resistance at full and empty tank, as checked off the bike and on with a multimeter. (3.8 to 88.5Ohm) I know it is not binding in the tank as I tied some fishing line round it and can move it up and down.

Before I return the unit as faulty, what should the voltages be on the connector coming from the bike to the fuel tank flange for the heater element, I assume this should be 12V but I can only see 90mV across pins 1 and 4. Maybe I have a wiring issue on the bike? When I reconnect the old fuel sense strip I can perform a calibration OK and see on my GS911
Fuel strip heater current = 3.11mA
Fuel Strip heater voltage = 0.09V
Fuel sense voltage = 0V

Any help on which way to go would be appreciated - return the unit or chase a wiring fault?

Cheers
 
Not sure but I think a new tank sensor needs calibrating so ECU can make sense of the readings its getting. Been a while but my 09 had a new unit fitted back in 2011 and I recall the tech saying it was all done and calibrated when I went to collect it. Maybe someone with a GS911 can tell you. Or maybe its all bollocks.
Try and PM Steptoe he should give you a definitive answer.
 
simonsGSA said:
Hi All, ages since i posted here, so much so i lost my origional details.. anyhow...

I have fitted a float from a late GSA to my 08 GSA and bought one of those magic devices which performs the conversion. Unfortunately something isn't right........

I know my float has the correct resistance at full and empty tank, as checked off the bike and on with a multimeter. (3.8 to 88.5Ohm) I know it is not binding in the tank as I tied some fishing line round it and can move it up and down.

Before I return the unit as faulty, what should the voltages be on the connector coming from the bike to the fuel tank flange for the heater element, I assume this should be 12V but I can only see 90mV across pins 1 and 4. Maybe I have a wiring issue on the bike? When I reconnect the old fuel sense strip I can perform a calibration OK and see on my GS911
Fuel strip heater current = 3.11mA
Fuel Strip heater voltage = 0.09V
Fuel sense voltage = 0V

Any help on which way to go would be appreciated - return the unit or chase a wiring fault?

Cheers
Click to expand...

Taking readings from the bike side connector is pretty unhelpful as it’s controlled by the ECU.
The heater circuit should be around 35 to 40 ohm. Yours is indicating a current flow so that’s probably ok.
The sensing circuit is around 2 Meg Ohm at cold (full tank). Yours is open circuit so looks like there’s the fault.

Fuel strips fail open circuit on the sensor side (middle pins).

You should be able to test your float emulator.
 
I suspect the float emulator is faulty. I put some resistors across the bike side plug to spoof it into thinking it had half a tank and that worked. I reconnected my failed fuel strip and that showed half a tank when in free air. I have emailed probeemer and will see what they respond with.
 
simonsGSA said:
I suspect the float emulator is faulty. I put some resistors across the bike side plug to spoof it into thinking it had half a tank and that worked. I reconnected my failed fuel strip and that showed half a tank when in free air. I have emailed probeemer and will see what they respond with.
Click to expand...

What resistance did you use to get 1/2 tank on display?
 
Sorry, cant remember the values, they were similar to those you suggested in another post but i didn't have the exact values so made do.

Interestingly it seems to take a few minutes for any changes to take effect, is this normal behavior?
 
It samples at a slow rate so changes take a while.
I’ve made a test box with 38 ohm “heater” resistor and variable sensor via potentiometer but the bar steward isn’t working. The slow sample rate and need to have it rolling is a pain in the bits for fault finding.
2K should be the full tank value. So far I’ve not found the empty tank value.
 
Just to round this out, I now have my float control unit working (I think).

Here was the issue and some observations. Bert suggested I connect a diode and 1K ballast resistor between pins 1 and 4. When I did this I saw nothing on the diode. I then checked on my 911 and saw a fault on the fuel system, i think it was "implausible value on fuel level voltage", I cleared this but still no diode.

I then reconnected my half working fuel strip and ran the calibration, the diode lights up during calibration.
I then reconnected my float control unit and it showed half a tank, about right as I have done 190 miles.
Then I removed the float control unit and started playing with some resistor values out of curiosity, I managed to trigger the "implausible value" fault again and the diode went out and the float control no longer worked. Clearing the fault made everything happy again.

On my bike the diode was on for 30s then off for 65s. Voltage across the diode was about 5v but GS911 never seemed to show this value.

So I think anyone who has issues getting either the diodes to work to show a permanent full tank or the float control unit to work would do well to clear all fuel sensor related faults and if that doesn't work try and connect a fuel strip and calibrate it.

Next stage is to ride it till its almost empty to see when the low fuel warning comes on then see how far it goes until it runs out...
 
The values for permanent full tank are 2K between pins 2 and three with a 1Meg ohm between pins 3 and 4. I believe empty tank is only around 2.2K but have not been able to confirm. I have no idea why it (supposedly) needs that 1 Meg bias. Maybe some GS911 values will help work it out.

I've now found the fault in my resistance test box so heading the right way to get the correct values for empty tank and the tolerance for a full tank.
 
Does anyone know where to find the correct connectors to fit the fuel gauge wiring loom and fuel pump ends?
 
Hello Gents !
I’ve manage to fit float conversion box to my friend GSA I have PCB that can be calibrated ...
I’m still in the process of testing this thing but this was straight forward without adaptation !
main thing no yellow triangle !
I’ve lifted the float manually to simulate and is showing full tank and later this week I will try to calibrate the PCB and adopt as new fuel strip
61163644b8da768a5529df4d59108f08.jpg

e70f026bcd173d89aa3da59afe7856fa.jpg


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Quick update
After a week of riding GSA was finally completely dry with two bars left on the dash...
I’ve empty the tank and pour 5.5l of fuel as per instruction.
Float reading 80ohms
Turn on “adjusting”mode on PCB and set 1V as instructed on the float side with the adjuster screw of a blue potentiometer

Now we have one bar left on the dash and yellow triangle appear.
All this was done without adaptation.
I will do the adaptation only if this will fail...
more details next week
5631162a5bb7efa77b0391004cbfbac0.jpg
81146423b751733fed185e46de86a9b2.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
47a54040cc298e4885dbe28e7748d958.jpg
835963faeab50a57a40a76d459a39f26.jpg
After 9 miles goes another 32 l of fuel in to the tank range was showing 26 miles with 4 l of fuel before refuelling ...


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Bendy toy said:
Has anyone managed to find the Polish made emulator? I cant even find their website.
Click to expand...

In Poland they have there ways not every things need to end up on line.
I’m going there next week and I have the gentlemen’s phone number if you need one let me know I will get it for you cost around £30
And not sure if he makes them to order only so if there is more people interested just let me know I will ask ...


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Denz0 said:
In Poland they have there ways not every things need to end up on line.
I’m going there next week and I have the gentlemen’s phone number if you need one let me know I will get it for you cost around £30
And not sure if he makes them to order only so if there is more people interested just let me know I will ask ...
Click to expand...

I would be very interested (assuming they work of course) but at £30 it's worth a punt. Can you also ask where gets the wiring connectors male/female to make a properly neat job of it.
 
Bendy toy said:
I would be very interested (assuming they work of course) but at £30 it's worth a punt. Can you also ask where gets the wiring connectors male/female to make a properly neat job of it.
Click to expand...

Works 100% he must have done 50 of them so far and if you can’t get the gs float Seat float works as well all this is supply with very clear installation instruction (in Polish ) and you use your own connector but you need to cut the loom and add the PCB in that place
PM me if you need more info...


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Hi Den I wont be able to PM you as you're not a paid up member.

Put me down for one. If I remember correctly it will adjust for a range of float sensors. Text me on zero77I2I86zerozeroI

Dave
 
I have one of Bert Prems devices, it works really well. The only issue being the float itself. Because of the shape of the tank it only seems to work on the top half of the tank. Mine shows as empty after about 200 miles on my GSA. I tried all sorts of bending and reshaping of the float arm but it just wont measure the last bit of fuel. I can live with this but if anyone has a cure I would be very grateful.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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