Still won't start.......
- Thread starter robsonthejob
- Start date
Can you do EXACTLY what Steptoe says and let us know the results.... it’s not the injectors you are testing, it’s the cable going to them, you crank the starter when testing the injector PLUG.
Also, don’t remove the injectors, you remove the pipe going to them then JUST turn the ignition on, no need to press the starter on this part of the test.
Roger 04 RT
Registered user
I don’t mean to be argumentative but a better fuel flow test is to open the fuel RETURN line at the QD (quick disconnect), push in the check valve on the fuel distributor side of the open QD, and then see if you get fuel flow in the return line when the key is turned on.
If you measure at the injector, there is no pressure built in the line and you will get copious amounts of fuel even if an in-tank hose is split. By measuring at the RETURN QD you can tell that there’s fuel flow under pressure.
And if you need to, you can measure the return fuel flow at idle, which should be about 2 liters per minute. That will confirm enough fuel flow at wide open throttle.
If you measure at the injector, there is no pressure built in the line and you will get copious amounts of fuel even if an in-tank hose is split. By measuring at the RETURN QD you can tell that there’s fuel flow under pressure.
And if you need to, you can measure the return fuel flow at idle, which should be about 2 liters per minute. That will confirm enough fuel flow at wide open throttle.
Bendy toy
Registered user
Just do Stepper’s fuel test without a catch bottle and add a lighted match.
Sorted.
PS can I have your starter motor before it’s all too crispy.
Sorted.
PS can I have your starter motor before it’s all too crispy.
He has an electrical problem. That was the point of the test. Not to measure the quantity of fuel..
We now have a line in the sand where we can work from. Could be more than one problem, but one thing at a time..
Roger 04 RT
Registered user
I agree, and usually one debugging set of instructions at a time is best too. I’ll grab some popcorn and head for the easy chair.
robsonthejob
Registered user
Ok here goes...........
Lest keep it simple
Injectors removed - ignition on & starter pressed do you get fuel comming out from the injectors Y / N- tiny small amount barely perceptible amount for a fraction of a second and not again despite trying 5 times on both sides.
Disconnect power to injectors - with ignition on & starter pressed do you get a 12V pulse on the power feed Y /N - no multimeter sees nothing.......
from what i can work out, all youve proved is your getting fuel via fule pump to the injector - but the injectors arnt working
You still need to finish the injector diagnosis -- whats next?
Lest keep it simple
Injectors removed - ignition on & starter pressed do you get fuel comming out from the injectors Y / N- tiny small amount barely perceptible amount for a fraction of a second and not again despite trying 5 times on both sides.
Disconnect power to injectors - with ignition on & starter pressed do you get a 12V pulse on the power feed Y /N - no multimeter sees nothing.......
from what i can work out, all youve proved is your getting fuel via fule pump to the injector - but the injectors arnt working
You still need to finish the injector diagnosis -- whats next?
Where does the injector get its electrical input/signal from ....
robsonthejob
Registered user
Motronic ??
Can you recommend anyone to source a replacement ?
Anyone recondition them ??
Can you recommend anyone to source a replacement ?
Anyone recondition them ??
robsonthejob
Registered user
Looks like a simple swapout - why take to a mechanic........
Just need a recommendation of supplier.....
Just need a recommendation of supplier.....
robsonthejob
Registered user
Thats been swapped / checked with an LED and appears to be working, I cant see what else it may be - but happy to keep checking just need pointers.
Fuel pump primes up/spins ok , side stand switch looks OK on the multimeter, display lights/goes out with the Kill switch, Battery and starter motor have been swapped, 4 new spark plugs checked all 4 no sparks before of after swapping the HES.
Relays swapped around to confirm working (Horn and Motronic are the same) all the fuses are OK.
Where next apart from motronic.
Fuel pump primes up/spins ok , side stand switch looks OK on the multimeter, display lights/goes out with the Kill switch, Battery and starter motor have been swapped, 4 new spark plugs checked all 4 no sparks before of after swapping the HES.
Relays swapped around to confirm working (Horn and Motronic are the same) all the fuses are OK.
Where next apart from motronic.
robsonthejob
Registered user
Complete assembled unit.
robsonthejob
Registered user
Sorry meant to say bought a complete unit, no soldering......
robsonthejob
Registered user
So that's it ....... Teddy firmly out the pram ???
Why not just give all the steps and ill work through them instead of this drawn out method.
Ive changed tested most things so please just share the knowledge - thanks !
Why not just give all the steps and ill work through them instead of this drawn out method.
Ive changed tested most things so please just share the knowledge - thanks !
From what I can see you have been given a set of simple instructions by people who work on these machines daily in order to rule out more likely causes, before moving on to the ones less likely. Its not a "drawn out method", it is simple common sense, and an age-old diagnostic procedure. Instead you are jumping from one thing to another, ignoring good advice, and now acting affronted when those people who are trying to help you (for free) get bored of repeating themselves.
You have no electrical signal to your injectors (if your testing can be trusted), which suggests the HES, a rather common failure. Dont just assume that because its new(ish) that its working. Focus your testing here and make damn sure its working before you suspect the motronic, these are not very prone to failure.
You have no electrical signal to your injectors (if your testing can be trusted), which suggests the HES, a rather common failure. Dont just assume that because its new(ish) that its working. Focus your testing here and make damn sure its working before you suspect the motronic, these are not very prone to failure.
robsonthejob
Registered user
I've had the led connected and it goes on / off as per test procedure - so in isolation looks ok. Injectors were tried with a digital meter and the led no voltage/light seen.
Went over all connections for the wiring no corrosion seen and could not see any pinched or broken wires visually. What other tests would be recommended next - thanks.
Ps For info this bikes only done 10015 miles as a sunny Sunday ride. Only water seen is from a bucket.
Went over all connections for the wiring no corrosion seen and could not see any pinched or broken wires visually. What other tests would be recommended next - thanks.
Ps For info this bikes only done 10015 miles as a sunny Sunday ride. Only water seen is from a bucket.
http://users.rcn.com/dehager/service/oilhead_hall_sensors.pdf
have you tested both upper and lower sensors of the HES?
you say injectors were tried with a meter and an led, were you testing the loom side of the connector whilst unplugged from injector?
have you tested both upper and lower sensors of the HES?
you say injectors were tried with a meter and an led, were you testing the loom side of the connector whilst unplugged from injector?
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