Potential r1200gs owner needs advice...please!

GSGRIFF

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Hi everyone. I,m thinking of getting a GS and my budget is going to be around the £6k mark.
Please can you help me with advice on what to look out for and what I could expect to get for this money. I have been told to go for the post 2010 dohc model if possible, what do you all reckon?
Cheers, Griff.
 
The twincam is the one to go for.

Condition is more important than mileage.

Try and get hard luggage as part of the deal, the cases are expensive.

Check everything works, nothing feels worn out, and that there is no play in the rear wheel bearing (final drive).
 
Check the for sale section. There have been a couple lovely looking twin cams in your budget recently
 
Thanks for your replies. ..going to be a month or so before I will have the funds available (1050 speed triple and xt 225 to be sold yet).
 
GSGRIFF said:
Hi everyone. I,m thinking of getting a GS and my budget is going to be around the £6k mark.
Please can you help me with advice on what to look out for and what I could expect to get for this money. I have been told to go for the post 2010 dohc model if possible, what do you all reckon?
Cheers, Griff.
Click to expand...

£260 for the remap without rolling road. Timing is more flexible. Same results, just not a graph showing the before and after.
PM me to book.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Got a 2010 twin cam with only 6.5k miles on it in the end..lovely bike. £260 for a new map sounds a good plan..
 
GSGRIFF said:
Got a 2010 twin cam with only 6.5k miles on it in the end..lovely bike. £260 for a new map sounds a good plan..
Click to expand...

It might be worth getting a service by CW in Dorchester to get it running at its best if needed, these bikes respond well to an experienced bike technician when serviced. Conversely, a grease monkey can get them running like shit.

For the remap, join the Hilltop group buy gang and get it properly optimised on a dyno for just £40 more, its the bespoke dyno run tweaks that will pay dividends to your bikes fuelling. These bikes run very lean as standard (too lean IMO ).
 
I had the bike serviced at CW when I got it and it's now booked for Hilltop in September, including the dyno run. Looking forward to seeing the results!
 
GSGRIFF said:
I had the bike serviced at CW when I got it and it's now booked for Hilltop in September, including the dyno run. Looking forward to seeing the results!
Click to expand...

I think you're gonna like it. ;)
 
They don't really bed the rings in until 10k+, don't be aftaid to give it some beans as riding them too gently doesn't help. Keep a watchful eye on the oil level and learn the routine way to check it properly (as it will appear to vary unless you consistently follow the routine.)
 
Giving it plenty of beans.. Doesn't appear to be using oil so far, I've been checking it whilst on the centre stand 5 minutes after a run, that's OK from what I've read?!
 
I have had my 2012 TC from new (2012) and it uses about 0.5 litre between 6000 mile oil changes. That's how I check the oil level as well, works for me!!
Still makes me smile :beerjug:
 
GSGRIFF said:
Giving it plenty of beans.. Doesn't appear to be using oil so far, I've been checking it whilst on the centre stand 5 minutes after a run, that's OK from what I've read?!
Click to expand...

Spot on. Thats the best way, so long as the beak oil cooler is hot it means oil is fully circulating so will drain back to the sump within five minutes of stopping and give a true level.

Have you also read the bit about NEVER leaving the engine idling on the stand whilst you answer the phone, go to the bog, have a brew etc etc.....?

It's air cooled and relies on air flow to cool it. Sounds obvious but sadly there has been more than one occasion where owners have started their bikes and walked away then got side tracked. Half an hour later the exhausts are glowing cherry red and the sump oil sightglass has melted followed by the oil being pumped out everywhere until the engine is wrecked from oil loss.

On a GS, only start the engine when you are ready to ride off and you'll be fine.
 
That's interesting, I was told by a friend that b.m.w.'s have a cut out if they get too hot when stationary. Don't think I'll test it though...
 
I heard they had a cut out that killed the engine if they got too hot (trip mechanism! )
 
I think that whoever told you that is misinformed. There is an engine warning in the RID (instrument display) that may come on in the event of excess engine temperature, but I don't believe the engines are prevented from running when excessively hot although I'm no expert.

I have been caught out in heavy traffic in hot weather and my engine was noisy with full bars showing in the temperature display, so hot that I used my kill switch when stopped at lights or gridlock. I wouldn't fancy needing my engine only to find BMW thought otherwise and prevented it running.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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