You could get a 1/2” plate laser cut to the wheel bolt PCD plus a centre hole. Also get a disc cut to fit over the spindle tube.
Some HT bolts and nuts will give you a hefty puller.
Get the flange to 150C and stuff some gel freezer packs (well chilled) down the tunnel.
Saying all that mine came off without a puller. Mikey thinks it might be bolloxed by a previous strip down. If so it’s unfortunate as the bike had only done 12K when the owner bought it and this is his first wheel bearing at 40K.
Hi bendy,
Not saying yours has any issues,
Just surprised that it “”””fell”””” apart.
Up to you with what’s good bad or anything else,I know nothing about your particular rebuild.
Please don’t quote me where a completely different bike is being discussed
Hi bendy,
Not saying yours has any issues,
Just surprised that it “”””fell”””” apart.
Up to you with what’s good bad or anything else,I know nothing about your particular rebuild.
Please don’t quote me where a completely different bike is being discussed
Sorry Mike. A hazard of using the mobile and not properly reading the title.
BTW, I suspect the wheel bearing I worked on had been apart before. I seem to remember you saying the parts can be permanently damaged if removed without enough heat - interference fit is reduced. I think you'll agree this is likely to be the same in any engineered gearbox like these.