Rear Drive Flange Puller
- Thread starter Squigles
- Start date
Is this the one on the left side?
If it's the same as the hexhead you ease away the black plastic trim, remove the circlip, drill a small hole in the oil seal - just deep enough to penetrate the seal, screw in a self tapper and pull the seal out. Replacement is to line it up and tap in to place, refitting the circlip and outer cover.
From memory the above is how I did my hexhead in 2012 - may not be the same on LC's so best check first.
If it's the same as the hexhead you ease away the black plastic trim, remove the circlip, drill a small hole in the oil seal - just deep enough to penetrate the seal, screw in a self tapper and pull the seal out. Replacement is to line it up and tap in to place, refitting the circlip and outer cover.
From memory the above is how I did my hexhead in 2012 - may not be the same on LC's so best check first.
Are you talking about the outer oil seal?
pop off the outer cover and remove the seal -
If you search you tube you can see how -
its two small self tappers and then lever the seal out. If i recall
BTW i'm not responsable if you cock it up
its down to you !
pop off the outer cover and remove the seal -
If you search you tube you can see how -
its two small self tappers and then lever the seal out. If i recall
BTW i'm not responsable if you cock it up
its down to you !
If its the other side -
Mikeyboy is your man
Mikeyboy is your man
When looking at the design of the BMW tools neede for the removal of the flange, the design of the tools suggest that there are some heavy forces needed.
If the OP wants to keep the costs down, I would like to suggest that the OP removes the drive unit from the bike and brings it to the dealer, and let the dealer do the removal and installment of a new seal.
If such strong equipment is needed, trying to do the job with inferior equipment may end up costing way more than paying the dealer for the required 1 - 2 hrs. of Labour.
If the OP wants to keep the costs down, I would like to suggest that the OP removes the drive unit from the bike and brings it to the dealer, and let the dealer do the removal and installment of a new seal.
If such strong equipment is needed, trying to do the job with inferior equipment may end up costing way more than paying the dealer for the required 1 - 2 hrs. of Labour.
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We don’t see many lc bikes,If its the other side -
Mikeyboy is your man
Most are probably still covered with extended warranties and being maintained by the dealer network,
But I guess some of the early bikes are coming into 2nd and 3rd owners now.
I’d be happy to take a looksee at the fd with a view to making the tooling to enable us to be confident in rebuilding the units as we do for all earlier Bmw models.
Mike
Why is this posted in the watercooled section- just asking
Dear oh dear.......Watercooled bikes also have flanges that need pulling.
Of course, dear, but its on the other side. The parts must be different deary?
More to the point, WTF are you doing in here, What do you know about LC's
Feck off back to your old tractors
Why is this posted in the watercooled section
Because he possibly has an LC?
Read post #3
Honestly, I don't think you will see too many of them.
The drive is redesigned, back to the old way. That is, both bearings soaking in oil, and no conical bearing that needs shiming, as opposed to the pre-13 1200 where the oilseal was positioned between the main bearing and the drives internals, leaving the bearing seal to withstand any crap that may be sent it's way.
Current drives share design features with the drives in -/6 and /7 models, and these where almost indestructable.
Or because it's the seal on the right side?
Blowzorn
Registered user
roamer
Registered user
Is there definateley no play rocking the wheel,
Seals rarely leak without some movement,
It may be worth getting it to mikeyboy for a look over,,
The earlier pre wc ones are being removed with home made spacer /puller,
Check u tube,
Seals rarely leak without some movement,
It may be worth getting it to mikeyboy for a look over,,
The earlier pre wc ones are being removed with home made spacer /puller,
Check u tube,
While it seems to be the same job, there is a major difference.
The flange used to be made of aluminum, and warming the flange made removal an easy task.
After there where discovered cracks in the boltholes, BMW changed the flange into a steel flange. This means that the flange is being pressed off with no heat, and this requires a lot more force, hence the importance of the plug in the hole to stabilize the puller. I'm not saying it can't be done diy. But unless you have access to a machineshop, trying to pull the flange off with inferior equipment may cause permanent damage to the shaft , and you can kiss any potential savings goodbye with a hefty margin.
Bendy toy
Registered user
You could get a 1/2” plate laser cut to the wheel bolt PCD plus a centre hole. Also get a disc cut to fit over the spindle tube.
Some HT bolts and nuts will give you a hefty puller.
Get the flange to 150C and stuff some gel freezer packs (well chilled) down the tunnel.
Saying all that mine came off without a puller. Mikey thinks it might be bolloxed by a previous strip down. If so it’s unfortunate as the bike had only done 12K when the owner bought it and this is his first wheel bearing at 40K.
Some HT bolts and nuts will give you a hefty puller.
Get the flange to 150C and stuff some gel freezer packs (well chilled) down the tunnel.
Saying all that mine came off without a puller. Mikey thinks it might be bolloxed by a previous strip down. If so it’s unfortunate as the bike had only done 12K when the owner bought it and this is his first wheel bearing at 40K.
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