Sounds like the end of the road for my GS ownership

mikeyboy said:
I’d be checking ,
Valve clearances ,if excessive .why
Camchain blades,
if the above ok make a decision how far to go
As then the heads and barrels will be coming off.
Click to expand...


I'll have another look tommorow or thursday weather & time depending

I didnt whip the LHS off as the crash bar is bent a bit and its a pig to get the cover off / on lol.

Valve clearances were felt not measured, i'll do that next time -

couldnt see any obviously loose lock nuts but i'll check again -

Camchain blades - not sure how to check but what i saw- the lower one looked ok - (says he who hasnt got a clue lol)

If its heads and barrells off, then its beyond my level ...
 
My 2008 30K miles is very noisy right hand side when hot, not as noisy as this one possibly but tinny clacky noise at similar intervals to this one.

Start from cold and all sounds reasonable but when hot it's slightly embarrassing. My valve adjustment is OK so I was going to go for rocker arm end play next. I don't think there's much more in terms of adjustment to be done in the valve gear/head (stand to be corrected). I was going to try and adjust the noise out before our Picos tour this year but someone said it's the side that's not making noise you have to worry about (with tongue in cheek I assumed) so common sense prevailed and I left it.

I have listened to other 2008 MY and they were quieter than mine. The comforting thing is that it's quiet when cold so metal expansion and oil temperature/viscosity is creating enough of a variable to make the noise louder so you are talking small out of tolerance somewhere :), at least that's what my Kerbside Motors logic tells me.

I had used 10/40 oil for a tour to a cold place (Elefant) and then used 20/50 hoping it might reduce noise a bit but hasn't made any difference. Good luck and it may not be as serious as you think.
 
My gearbox clatters when the engine is hot. Does the noise change when you pull in the clutch lever?
 
Huge Thanks to Pukmeister,

Came over this morning in 30c ! and helped me have a look see at the sick GS :eek:

What did we find, Valve timing and endfloat were reset, Engine sounds very quiet cold and hot :)

Oil - oh dear, i had a suspicion that the last stamp in the book was a bit shall we say, to good to be true.

On draining it it was very thin & watery, and the colour was strange,

We have a suspicion that the oil hasn't been changed since the service before last, or if it has it was cheapyland xx grade.

So we refilled with Castrol 10w/40 and new genuine filter, and will do it again in 1k to flush any remnant of unknown stuff through.

On restarting it was noticeably quieter, and when run up to temperature is still stayed quiet.

Idle motors were parked and T/B's balanced.

They wern't a miilion miles out but have been rebalanced.

So next steps will be run it for a week/ 1k miles and see if the clonking noise returns.?

Once again Thank you Pukmeister :bow
 
Really pleased to tead all potentially is well (I’m sure the interim oil change at 1k is a very good idea!).

Who did the last service?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Mark Hooton said:
Really pleased to tead all potentially is well (I’m sure the interim oil change at 1k is a very good idea!).

Who did the last service?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Just a stamp in the book- with a mobile number -

TBH the oil wasnt good, it ranged from jet black to light black if that makes sense in colour -

although we couldnt see a metal particles which was a good thing.

The 1K change was PK's idea, so i can see what it looks / sounds like by then

If not its into a specialist for more diagnosis



wh
 
My pleasure Martin.

In all my years of engineering that is the strangest looking sump oil I have ever seen, especially that black residue in your rocker covers. My own GS's have ran on everything from Unipart 20W50 mineral through bulk drum Chevron and Fuchs 10W40 semi-synth to Castrol Power 1 Racing 10W50 fully-synth and have never looked anything even remotely like that.

My suspicion is your Hi-Flo oil filter had run out of filtering capacity, was in bypass and the oil had then become exhausted and overloaded with combustion deposits. A good job it had an internal bypass, ISTR a few Mk2 Golfs chewing through cranks due to cheap pattern filters with no internal bypass valves and poor servicing schedules. Luckily there were no obvious wear deposits and now with fresh oil and filter things should clean up and move any remnants into the new filter for removal. I hope your camchain tensioners get a wash out with fresh oil over time.

The next oil and filter change should finish the job of flushing plus going to 20W50 should quieten things further. As for the previous service stamps, I call bullshit, the previous owner was had by somebody (presumably cheap oil change and no filter).

I'd also say you got lucky by doing the sensible thing and not continuing to ride it if it knocked when hot. That watery oil would not have lubricated very well the hotter it got and I'd wager damage would soon follow. Oil is always cheaper than engine work.
 
She lives on... well done indeed Pukmeister :thumby:
 
No metal particles is a good sign. The reason I ask is that I’m convinced an unnamed dealer changed the oil on my bike a while ago. I also remain convinced that, in some cases, any oil will do! Also, I’ve got a friend who’s big end bearings went on his 33k LC recently........


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In hindsight i should have seen the signs,


The first 9 stamps were from new at a well known main dealer, & were only in most cases between 2 & 4k apart.

It then went into indie servicing at 17K or so and then to a stamp in the book with a mobile number at 23k

So if i take the 17k as the last ok service - it's done approx 10k on a filter and oil whcih as we think has run a chequred life.

lets see waht the next 1K brings
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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