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Thread: Slow on the starter and then it's 'click-click-click'

  1. #17
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    Dear Dr.
    Yes, they're in the piece of white latex gloves there in the middle. So I don't lose one.

    Again.

  2. #18
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    Reassembled.
    No joy.
    Next; as it's the ONLY thing left and something i cant do myself ~ get battery properly checked by a perfessional.
    will reply then.
    ... may pray to St. Jude in the meantime.
    appears bright from a distance / dim up close

  3. #19
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    A Positive result?

    Got the batteries checked. By an adult. In a battery shop.
    Battery A. the 'good' one: cranking power = 230 (alleged to be 300 when new.)
    Battery B. the 'spare' (which of course / murphys law* was the one in the Bike when i did all the ahem, diagnosis) .... cranking power = 130!
    obviously this only confused matters.
    Nipped home and put the 'good' one on the Bike, fired Her up and She started first go.
    Starter seemed (?) to turn easier.

    Now, i could
    1./ leave it and hope or
    2./ Buy the shop suggested new all-singing-and-dancing Gel Battery which according to his little book of battery specs is the recommended one for my Bike; 30ah / 230cranking power.

    Questions for the collective;
    I thought that 24ah was the "recommended" one for Guzzis? - i've used 30ah car batteries for years on this Bike on the basis that bigger was better.
    Is this false thinking as, given how much town riding and short distances i use the Bike for it would last longer between the inevitable charges i have to give it as it discharges more than charges (only 3 miles to work each way).
    Is the reverse true - i.e; a 24ah would be more likely to get a chance to charge fully and thus provide more cranking power?

    p.s: i can get a gel battery for about €80
    * murphy was a b*stard!
    appears bright from a distance / dim up close

  4. #20
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    Leave Battery "a" in place and step back from the tools
    Oh Great and Wise Deity, Grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change,

    Courage to change the things I can! And the wisdom to know the difference!

  5. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrFarkoff View Post
    Leave Battery "a" in place and step back from the tools
    This is what i have done.
    All by myself - i didn't even need telling!

    ~~~
    *good boy pats self on head and exits*

    .... but a new battery and perhaps even a starter motor is on the cards.
    appears bright from a distance / dim up close

  6. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ogmios View Post
    Got the batteries checked. By an adult. In a battery shop.
    Battery A. the 'good' one: cranking power = 230 (alleged to be 300 when new.)
    Battery B. the 'spare' (which of course / murphys law* was the one in the Bike when i did all the ahem, diagnosis) .... cranking power = 130!
    obviously this only confused matters.
    Nipped home and put the 'good' one on the Bike, fired Her up and She started first go.
    Starter seemed (?) to turn easier.

    Now, i could
    1./ leave it and hope or
    2./ Buy the shop suggested new all-singing-and-dancing Gel Battery which according to his little book of battery specs is the recommended one for my Bike; 30ah / 230cranking power.

    Questions for the collective;
    I thought that 24ah was the "recommended" one for Guzzis? - i've used 30ah car batteries for years on this Bike on the basis that bigger was better.
    Is this false thinking as, given how much town riding and short distances i use the Bike for it would last longer between the inevitable charges i have to give it as it discharges more than charges (only 3 miles to work each way).
    Is the reverse true - i.e; a 24ah would be more likely to get a chance to charge fully and thus provide more cranking power?

    p.s: i can get a gel battery for about €80
    * murphy was a b*stard!


    Don't bother with a gel battery motobatt battery and charger were rubbish. I had a new replacement under warranty. ...still rubbish
    I still have a one year old motobatt gel battery on my garage shelf off my guzzi plus the charger
    just can't bin it as its my battery for bulb testing

    lead acid was no problem.
    My triumph sprint 955i ST came with a new motobatt battery.

    I took it straight off and bought a Japanese lead acid.....lm taking no prisoners
    I went through all of this with my guzzi.

    strip and clean the solenoid ( they stick ) mine was !

    I sold my motoguzzi sport bike to trade at a huge loss....

    bought a triumph sprint st. .....problem solved
    I've had x7 hinckley triumphs all faultless
    x2 Guzzis. .....I shall not buy another ( same story for rubbish electrics on ducati x2)
    Retired from Riding but making a come back on a triumph sprint st


    2002 triumph sprint st
    2000 porsche boxster
    1967 mobylette moped

  7. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Magwa View Post
    Don't bother with a gel battery motobatt battery and charger were rubbish. ....

    I've had x7 hinckley triumphs all faultless
    x2 Guzzis. .....I shall not buy another ( same story for rubbish electrics on ducati x2)
    Hmm,
    the more i think about a gel replacement the more i think it's pointless.
    The existing 'good' battery put out 300 cranking power when new / as it is, at a year old puts out a tested 260 cranking power.
    The gel replacement would put out 230 cranking power. When it's brand new . That is the precise amount i'm told is needed. So, when it's getting on a bit - what would it put out then?
    Dont think i'll bother so.

    As for Guzzis rubbish electrics,
    yeah, i'm crap with electrics, should have seen me fitting the Dyna ignition...
    ... actually it was dead easy.
    But the jury is out as to whether i should keep this Bike. I'm still thinking about it...
    ... 18 years after i bought it.

    appears bright from a distance / dim up close

  8. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ogmios View Post
    Hmm,
    the more i think about a gel replacement the more i think it's pointless.
    The existing 'good' battery put out 300 cranking power when new / as it is, at a year old puts out a tested 260 cranking power.
    The gel replacement would put out 230 cranking power. When it's brand new . That is the precise amount i'm told is needed. So, when it's getting on a bit - what would it put out then?
    Dont think i'll bother so.

    As for Guzzis rubbish electrics,
    yeah, i'm crap with electrics, should have seen me fitting the Dyna ignition...
    ... actually it was dead easy.
    But the jury is out as to whether i should keep this Bike. I'm still thinking about it...
    ... 18 years after i bought it.

    I had a beautiful motoguzzi lemans mkIII with spitfire fairing
    I loved it but it's 1980's moped electrics were k**p
    I sold it after three years vowed never to buy another motoguzzi
    then I fell in love with a motoguzzi sports 1200
    it was beautiful. ....but just like yours I kept getting "click no crank ". ...a well known motoguzzi fault.
    I did everything to sort it...? failed and sold it.
    Its called "character " ..........
    I know what I called it...
    The longest I've ever owned a bike is 15yrs
    most are 1 to 3 years.
    good luck
    Retired from Riding but making a come back on a triumph sprint st


    2002 triumph sprint st
    2000 porsche boxster
    1967 mobylette moped

  9. #25
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    Og use a "DECENT" jump lead and run from the negative terminal to a SHINY thing that is connected to the engine close by the starter preferably a bolt (i.e.Something that will provide a good earth )

    Basically you are eliminating if the Earth lead is old and brittle and not conducting as it should

    If the starter springs into life with the extra earth you can braid one up in smaller multi strand cable and attach to the battery and said engine bolt

    If it helps but does not cure it? Get assistance and with another "Good" jump lead from battery positive to the upper terminal on the starter

    You are eliminating old and brittle cables which may have High resistance
    Oh Great and Wise Deity, Grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change,

    Courage to change the things I can! And the wisdom to know the difference!

  10. #26
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    Dr. F,

    done that. Thanks. Though no noticeable difference / good to eliminate that aspect.
    So today i was out and about and
    .... and it started all over again. or rather stopped.

    AAAAARGHHhhhhh!
    I've mailed you.
    where's me meds?
    appears bright from a distance / dim up close

  11. #27
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    Left battery to charge.
    Stripped starter motor totally. (There's two rivets holding the body together that discourage getting right into it - but i was not going to be disFeckinCouraged today. )
    Found some 'oddities' (see pics).
    After cleaning the innards and reassembling, put well charged battery back in and Bike starts up fine. Repeatedly.

    Do i trust it? Like hell.
    I think a new starter motor (any suggestions on where to get one?) and perhaps a battery, to be sure.
    Thoughts and opinions welcome and thanks for the help folks.
    Attached Images Attached Images     
    appears bright from a distance / dim up close

  12. #28
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    Stein Dinse would be my thoughts..

    If you can't get one local or yours rebuilt..
    Attached Images Attached Images    
    Perfekt ist nicht gut genug.

    UKGSER-A place where I've wasted so much time, learned so much, laughed a lot and cried a few times.

    Every bed of roses has pricks in it!

  13. #29
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    Thanks for the research Ash!
    I have done the same - but it's good to have it confirmed by our resident Googlist expert.

    €219
    https://www.stein-dinse.biz/Moto-Guz...ml#prettyPhoto

    £240
    http://www.motomeccaspares.com/produ...php?PerPage=36

    £204.80
    https://www.gutsibits.co.uk/pr/TheSh...&search=SEARCH

    Gutsibits come out best i think (12 month guarantee in writing) - they also do 'pattern' ones, s/hand and reconditioned.
    I'll see what i can find locally as well as postage aint going to be cheap.
    ... i think i'll get original / new. The last one lasted 28 years after all.
    appears bright from a distance / dim up close

  14. #30
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    Og,

    That commutator, although it has no crud between the segments to hold off the brushes, does not look well.

    I/we in the trade used to mount them in a lathe and carefully dress the surface flat and fit new brushes if there was enough meat left so to do. Usually in the "cant afford it/can't get one" scenario as a last resort.

    If you have a local motor rewinder/engineering shop to do it for you it might be worth a punt but its not a cure - all you're doing is putting off the inevitable.

    Fluff.

  15. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fluffy Bridges View Post
    Og,

    That commutator, although it has no crud between the segments to hold off the brushes, does not look well.

    I/we in the trade used to mount them in a lathe and carefully dress the surface flat and fit new brushes if there was enough meat left so to do. Usually in the "cant afford it/can't get one" scenario as a last resort.

    If you have a local motor rewinder/engineering shop to do it for you it might be worth a punt but its not a cure - all you're doing is putting off the inevitable.

    Fluff.
    Ta Fluff,
    that is exactly what i'm doing - it is with a local place, although i asked if they could get a new one they tried to fix the old (thanks.. i think ) not a success as they could only fit a different 'rear end' / brush plate etc on. That fouled the neutral switch and created interesting results . So now am waiting to hear from them when the new motor comes in.

    Very Good to hear from someone that knows the subject - you have confirmed to me what i thought was the case but didn't know enough about to be sure. Much Appreciated!
    appears bright from a distance / dim up close

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