Need some advice - from italy...

I need some thoughts from the collective. Got myself down to the in-laws in Italy via the Black Forest (accommodation very good by the way ). It was a great ride all in all even if i did hit some biblical rain and hail storms in the Ardennes.

The weather was too hot from the start if i'm honest - wearing all that gear. But it's even hotter down here!

Anyway, I now have some niggles...


1. When I arrived at Eurotunnel on the UK side, I got a feint waft of an oil smell. Closer inspection then and after 1200 miles, shows not obvious sign of a leak.

Right now, i think the oil filter needs torquing up as i only did it by hand with rubber gloves on - so i have the idea oil is misting from there? I'm buying a filter wrench this afternoon to eliminate that one. There is a very feint oil residue on the liege side of the wall around the filter helping my view on this.



2. I have lost auxiliary power to the socket on the front fairing. SO can't charge anything. This could have been the rain, though i am not sure why. I believe there is no fuses for this? It COULD be my plug and cable arrangement. Still need to check this.


3. This one could be because I spent two 10hr days in the saddle and now know the bikes noises a little better - or i should trust my gut?

Basically, fully loaded, i'm finding that from about 85-90 mph it seems to be a little more buzzy than i remembered (without luggage) - or is this the famous flat spot people talk about? I seem to also hear a noise - to me it resembles a feint bearing noise thats past its best - there's the exhaust sound and then theres the motor and it seems to be crank speed related. Right now i'm thinking alternator because thats where it seems to come from? It could also be it's normal noise. I'm new to the bike...

Meanwhile, it starts and stops fine. Is doing approx 49-50 mpg when sitting at 85-95. Pulls well and generally is behaving really well. It's a really great ride . Interestingly, i felt the FD casing when i arrived here after doing 90mph in 37 degrees for a good couple of hours and it was only hand warm/hot. I think that hollow axel must be responsible as the 1150 FD after that was HOT!

I know it's nigh impossible to determine noises from a description! And it might be my paranoia after my last couple of trips down here on the 1150, but I wonder if anyone sees a connection between these points or apart from the oil filter torquing - i should shut up and ride

The bearing rumble noise you describe could be the tyres if you have Anakee 3s

DO NOT tighten the oil filter more than hand tight or you'll never move it when changing time comes around.

Alternator belts can hum. Could also be the alternator bearings.

Buzziness could be throttle balance, or shite ethanol in euro petrol. Use 98 octane fuel whenever possible.

Oil can mist out at engine casing joints, mine weeps from engine front timing cover and cylinder to block base gaskets. I just wash off as necessary, it helps stop corrosion anyway.

Oil filter is normally roughly hand tight plus a quarter turn.

I would just ride and enjoy.

redrick said:

The bearing rumble noise you describe could be the tyres if you have Anakee 3s

Click to expand...

Thanks for that. It's not really a rumble, much lighter sound. Right now my memory is if the alternator bearing had gone, so it's a lightweight sound of something spinning. Is only apparent above about 50-60mph. Which is why it could also be the bike's normal sound. Lots of possible sources at that speed.

Everything else is behaving, which is why I'm a little puzzled.

I have however now heard the tyre rumble, which only comes in as you lean a little. It's running on the original Tourance's - China made versions.


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davegs said:

DO NOT tighten the oil filter more than hand tight or you'll never move it when changing time comes around.

Click to expand...

To be honest, I agree, which is why I wasn't too worried about tightening it with a dry rubber glove on. But I am wondering if a 1/4 turn out so might just close it up and get it off my list.

Pukmeister said:

Alternator belts can hum. Could also be the alternator bearings.

Buzziness could be throttle balance, or shite ethanol in euro petrol. Use 98 octane fuel whenever possible.

Oil can mist out at engine casing joints, mine weeps from engine front timing cover and cylinder to block base gaskets. I just wash off as necessary, it helps stop corrosion anyway.

Oil filter is normally roughly hand tight plus a quarter turn.

I would just ride and enjoy.

Click to expand...

Interesting. The belt did cross my mind. It's that sort of noise. It's not a rumble/knocking/or deep engine sound.

I'm not overly concerned. But if I can avert being dumped on the roadside is always helpful

I'm just not sure if any of these points are connected.

Thanks for the replies gents. Here on a new to me bike (2011 GSA) and mostly very happy with the change from the 1150. I mean, it's new to me being able to wheel around a fully loaded bike with relative ease and just a push off the stand after a fuel stop are all welcome details


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as a new 1200 owner myself (2012 GS from an 03 1150GS) your point three is reminiscent of what I experienced on my recent spin round Scotland

I found myself riding along listening to the different sounds and thinking one minute it's the tyres and then next it the FD about to eat itself

I think it just sounds different to the 1150 and just needs my ear tuning in to it

IanPorter said:

as a new 1200 owner myself (2012 GS from an 03 1150GS) your point three is reminiscent of what I experienced on my recent spin round Scotland

I found myself riding along listening to the different sounds and thinking one minute it's the tyres and then next it the FD about to eat itself

I think it just sounds different to the 1150 and just needs my ear tuning in to it

Click to expand...

Thanks. It's good to hear from a fellow 1150 owner who's made the same switch - and experienced the same learning curve.


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Thanks. It's good to hear from a fellow 1150 owner who's made the same switch - and experienced the same learning curve.

But ref the oil smell. That's new and I only changed the oil a week or so ago, so following the obvious, it would point to the oil filter - that might appreciate a little tightening



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Right. I've just checked the auxiliary power outlet below the seat on the RH side. That's working.

So only the front dash outlet isn't working. Are these two outlets handled in the same way by the system? It looks like I need to get the tank off and take a Loi at the wiring. But before I do, is they're anything special about that socket? For example, an I right it has no fuse?

Thanks



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davegs said:

DO NOT tighten the oil filter more than hand tight or you'll never move it when changing time comes around.

Click to expand...

As per the instructions >>>

Until you need to apply pressure and then 3 / 4 of a turn

Click to expand...

Also Its good to make sure the old filter seal came out with the old filter

DrFarkoff said:

As per the instructions >>> Until you need to apply pressure and then 3 / 4 of a turn

Also Its good to make sure the old filter seal came out with the old filter

Click to expand...

Thanks. I think we're on the same page .

Actually, the ring stayed in when I removed the old filter. Had to pull it out. A first as I've never had that happen before.

I've bought a filter socket, online. Should be here next Mon. I need it anyway.

Just need to find out why the auxiliary socket isn't behaving...



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Stick your ear plugs in and listen to some tunes - it'll stop you worying

Badboybez said:

Stick your ear plugs in and listen to some tunes - it'll stop you worying

Click to expand...

Very good advice. Its very easy to convince yourself that every noise is something about to fail. Just enjoy the ride.

If the beak power is a genuine BMW fit, my first early 1200 installation from 2004 used a male/female extender cable in parallel with the underseat socket, I presume the later 2007 on bikes are similar. If so it could just be a bad connection.

On my 2008 bike I fitted my own beak power mini DIN socket from a fused battery feed as I was pissed off with the meagre 5 amps of the proper sockets that cant even power a tyre compressor or use without cycling the ignition. A bonus is that I can plug my CTEK battery tender straight in to it as well.

Badboybez said:

Stick your ear plugs in and listen to some tunes - it'll stop you worying

Click to expand...

Yes yes. You're probably right

As mentioned, everything else (bar the dash power outlet) has been great. A very well behaved ride, completely unaware of the panniers and extra weight. In fact once on the downrward side of the Gran San Bernardo pass I had to do a self check and remind myself I had a little extra weight on board! Really, it handles that well. And I'm still new to it.



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Pukmeister said:

If the beak power is a genuine BMW fit, my first early 1200 installation from 2004 used a male/female extender cable in parallel with the underseat socket, I presume the later 2007 on bikes are similar. If so it could just be a bad connection.

On my 2008 bike I fitted my own beak power mini DIN socket from a fused battery feed as I was pissed off with the meagre 5 amps of the proper sockets that cant even power a tyre compressor or use without cycling the ignition. A bonus is that I can plug my CTEK battery tender straight in to it as well.

Click to expand...

Yes. Genuine oem factory fitted socket. This is a 2011, but guessing the wiring would be the same as you describe. I'd like to think it's just a poor connection. So tank off is the only way to take a proper look.

Do you know where the front connector to the main loom is? I'll find it off course, just looking for a pointer.

Oh, these auxiliary sockets are live with key-on? Or is there a delay until the motor is running? The lower, RH side socket was live at key-on. So I'm assuming the same is true for the front?

Thanks again



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I guess starting at the wiring for the underseat power socket is as good a place to start as any.

I believe the sockets should switch on with ignition power up, no need to start the engine.

You could unplug the socket and run temporary wires direct from the battery. Sort the bike’s wiring when back home.

Thanks gents. Temporary wired to the battery is s good idea and an easy thing to do. I'll get the tank off in a couple of days and see what I find, but with your suggestion Bendy, I'll pivot up a little wire in the meantime so I can at least make a tidy job of the temporary job



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