Any ideas with this rear Wilbers?
- Thread starter shready
- Start date
Ah yes ...
The bottom pin through he eye is in two parts, going in from each side. Gently squeeze together in a vive (protected with cloth, leather or wood, to be sure the two pieces are pressed fully together.
If this doesn't do it then it might be a tad wider than the one you took out ...
See the bush on the left 'entry hole' you might have to push that outwards a tad ... to do this you have to make a socket, bolt, nut, washers arrangement to gently push it outwards from in the middle, where the bottom eye sits between ... if you get my drift (drift, ha ... pun intended)
The bottom pin through he eye is in two parts, going in from each side. Gently squeeze together in a vive (protected with cloth, leather or wood, to be sure the two pieces are pressed fully together.
If this doesn't do it then it might be a tad wider than the one you took out ...
See the bush on the left 'entry hole' you might have to push that outwards a tad ... to do this you have to make a socket, bolt, nut, washers arrangement to gently push it outwards from in the middle, where the bottom eye sits between ... if you get my drift (drift, ha ... pun intended)
Thanks. My mechanical knowledge is limited to taking things off and putting them back on. I don’t have a vice or press and I don’t want to remove the inside collar thing because then there would be a gap when I put the shock back in.
I need about 1mm so I’m going to pop it back to Revs on Monday as I’ll be in the area and ask them to press it for me.
Would a vice do the job?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I need about 1mm so I’m going to pop it back to Revs on Monday as I’ll be in the area and ask them to press it for me.
Would a vice do the job?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes, would only need a gentle press IF the two bottom collars are slightly apart. The compression of grease in there might stop them pushing together fully (hydraulic lock)
Remove the inside collar thing? D'ya mean that spacer (thin line) inside the swing arm outer mounting? You don't remove that, but if fitted with new bottom pin (two Part) and they are fractionally wider than the ones they replaced (it doesn't take much) then that spacer would need gently drifting outwards, to make more space on the inside. Clearly that wouldn't be a job for you (not being funny or sarcastic ... honest)
If you look carefully as you try to get the lower suspension in between ... you'll see that it's the inside of that spacer that will be stopping it, not the alloy of the swing arm!
Good luck
EDIT ... it might be that the two half of the bottom pin aren't lined up exactly, looks from the photo as that could be so, not sure.
A pair of these, with cloth to protect, is all that might be required
Gently does it though ...
Attachments
If you’ve got a G clamp at home that’ll probably do the job. I’ve used them to fit bushes on other bikes but not a GS though I doubt if the practical side of it is any different.
Also remember the clamping sleeve, which fits through the LH side of the swinging arm, is meant to move back or forward to suit any slight difference in eye width - and also means that when the bolt is torqued-up it basically clamps the all parts against the drive shaft side of the swing arm and is only "supported" in the LH bore - ie no stress on swing arm casing.
This clamping sleeve invariably seizes-up, so you need to soak it in WD40 and devise some sort of puller with bolt, spacer, washers etc to pull it back slightly in bore.
In your case, since its the same shock going back, it's probably just the eye needing fully fitted as already metioned, but failing that, the above would sort you out.
When i swop back between my Ohlins and my OEM shock ( for Ohlins servicing) I've got to move the sleeve due to a slight difference in eye width on the two shocks.
Cheers.............................Grizzly
This clamping sleeve invariably seizes-up, so you need to soak it in WD40 and devise some sort of puller with bolt, spacer, washers etc to pull it back slightly in bore.
In your case, since its the same shock going back, it's probably just the eye needing fully fitted as already metioned, but failing that, the above would sort you out.
When i swop back between my Ohlins and my OEM shock ( for Ohlins servicing) I've got to move the sleeve due to a slight difference in eye width on the two shocks.
Cheers.............................Grizzly
Deleted account 211025001
Registered user
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2005
- Messages
- 11
- Reaction score
- -1
..........................
This clamping sleeve invariably seizes-up, so you need to soak it in WD40 and devise some sort of puller with bolt, spacer, washers etc to pull it back slightly in bore.
In your case, since its the same shock going back, it's probably just the eye needing fully fitted as already metioned, but failing that, the above would sort you out.
When i swop back between my Ohlins and my OEM shock ( for Ohlins servicing) I've got to move the sleeve due to a slight difference in eye width on the two shocks.
Cheers.............................Grizzly
^^^^^This^^^^^
IME the new bush in the shock only needs to be slightly longer and or off centre and coupled with a seized sleeve in the swing arm you will struggle..........I'd be freeing off the sleeve first and take it from there. With this a sliding fit there should be plenty of tolerance to allow the shock's bush to slide in easily.
Andres
Instead of devising a puller, you could just use an appropriately sized socket as a drift and knock the sleeve out from the outside. Looks to be enough space for it to drop out the space where the shock pivot goes before it hits the other side. Then just drift it back in from the outside again, just not as far, to gain your 1mm. Decent penetrating oil will help.
I spoke to the guy at Revs and he said the same as most of you here. The sleeve needs to be moving not seized as mine appears to be so I need to work on that and then try again. I've nipped up the bottom of the shock in a vice just a little to hopefully ease the refit.
It possibly would drift through? BUT - any time I've had to move mine it was VERY tight - and I didn't fancy the hammering force on the swing arm casting - it's not easy to support it solidly so that the hammer force does it's job?
A puller is fairly easy to devise - some sort of cup or socket on the outside (to allow clearance for sleeve) and a screw and heavy washer through socket and sleeve from outside then a washer and nut on the inside. Tighten screw and nut together and hopefully sleeve will move slightly - enough to fit shock?
Cheers....................Grizzly
roamer
Registered user
You may find after using wd 40 0r similar, it may start to move,
using a long bolt or threaded rod place a nut in the gap and screw the bolt or rod through it and continue into the threads on the swing arm keeping the nut in the gap free,
once you have the rod/ bolt well into the swingarm threads , wind the nut back against the sliding bush and it will push it back easily, no damage,
using a long bolt or threaded rod place a nut in the gap and screw the bolt or rod through it and continue into the threads on the swing arm keeping the nut in the gap free,
once you have the rod/ bolt well into the swingarm threads , wind the nut back against the sliding bush and it will push it back easily, no damage,
point taken Geo - assumed it wouldn’t be *that* tight. hope your holidays were good and that the tenere worked out well
Studding, washers and a couple of nuts, that'll sort it out
All sorted, pulled the collar across and lubed it then pulled it straight back flush with the swing arm. Shock back in and installed. Perfect, thanks everyone.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Copper grease is your friend when you reassemble it. 
Copper grease is your friend when you reassemble it.
I used Castrol LM grease.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Similar threads
