2004 R1200 GS with USB gs-911 diagnostic reader Servo Brake Bleed HELP

block now removed, sorry, how do i split it? not sure what thread you are referring to Neil, but it has those funny star drive things with a nipple in the middle. shall i drill them out ?

Use a security torq bit or just hammer in a normal torq bit into the bolt.
 
Had to drill a nipple bolt out in the end? Nothing else worked. And i snapped as star drive wrench.
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So, by a wierd twist, i asked the mrs if she had anything i could use to make a false back to the abs unit so i could keep the section that houses the bracket. She says, would sheet aluminium work? How, what, why followed. Aparantly to make jewellery just in case she got bored once we emigrated.

So, off I set to work....

I had to "dremel" the little humps away so i could make the new back fit flat.

I had to go to the local hardware store and get some nuts and bolts. Yes that's all they had. No spring washers either, so i used locktite. I might go and get some more nuts to double them up for extra safety.

I also used some orange sealant stuff like instant gasket. Seems to do the job. I might have a post mortem in a year to see how it's holding out from a water corrosion perspective. Not that it has rained here in 3 months, but i am meeting friends in Spain and then Portugal next year.

Anyway, hope this helps any other people embarking on this exercise.

Next step is err, the flashing lights and a test.

Probably a brake bleed again.

Also, using different brake pads has been mentioned, but given that this is only the second set of pads i have ever had, i will see. After 120k miles and still on original disks, i dont really want to change anything that i dont need to.
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Ok, not sure Mr Admin whether this should be a new thread or not. I suppose it's dependant on the outcome...
So, I plugged in the abs electronics bit.
Changed the clocks so the lights don't flash.
Put the fuel tank on.
Connected necessary bits.
Started bike and
1. The main headlight bulb blew, which has only happened twice before
2. The orange triangle did not light up, even though it did when i was testing which LEDs to blank out
3. And most worryingly the bike sounds like a plug or coil has gone.

The above seems like a remarkable coincidence.

Again, any help guidance would be greatly appreciated....

Video of bike plugged into 911 and running like an old dog !//cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5b942c48b3546/project1_2018_09_08_1.mp4

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if you look at your head temps, there is a 50 degree difference L/R they should be within a few degrees of each other

I'd take everything off, and recheck all conections , if needs be checking the cycling of the clocks at every step.

You can test for a failed main & secondary coils, just remember there are four of them

The mains are swappable, the lowers are handed
 
The above seems like a remarkable coincidence.

Again, any help guidance would be greatly appreciated....

Check that the cable quadrant on one of the throttles is not being held open by the cable not being seated correctly at the throttle body or at the splitter !!

Do the SIMPLE Stuff first and then look for complications
 
Ok, checked all the cables, and anything else that looked dodgy.
Checked the throttle cables too.
Have also checked the box where the throttle cable ends are, and that looks ok.
There is nothing blocked via the fuel lines either.
When i took the abs controller plug casing thing off to check the plug wires, there we about 10 flies jammed in there !
Anyway, when i plugged it back in,having forgotten to turn the ignition off, the orange triangle came on for about half a second. This used to stay on as there is no fuel tank. The fact that it came on shows i have blocked out only the red LEDs from the dash.
Previously I saw, when playing with the abs brakes, my LED part of the screen had a bit of random graphics going on( like a corruption ) to the left of the flashing fuel symbol. This happened again.
I have taken off my amended abs controller and tried bending the pins by about 1/4 of a mm. Also sprayed wd 40 on it.
I'm not sure im barking up the right tree either.

Also, after i did the video last night, i decided to unplug the coil wire on the rhs (upper) whilst it was running. Made no difference to the sound of the bike, which in turn reflects Santa's (mart) finding about cylinders being a different temp.

I can remember Steptoe telling me how to deduce which coil was knackered a while back, but again, with me doing all this tampering, it seems like a remarkable coincidence that this problem has appeared.

So now, do I plug in the gs-911 and then what. Is there a set of logical steps i can take?



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Do the simple stuff first. Well i did but not thoroughly. Did check the throttle line to the injectors but not both sides at the top.

Looks like i have lost the orange light, but this was the culprit.

Obviously i dislodged it.

Popped the little rascal back in, and it now runs like it did before.

I still get the error on the 911 about lambda sensor no 1 not working.

Once the bike is back together, i can assess this error more closely. (Well see if the bike rides ok)
This might be why the bike goes a bit lumpy from cold when it starts getting warm... Had this issue for a decade, so not too bothered

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Many many, thanks to those of you that helped. I can now take the bike to get an ITV (MOT) tomorrow. That with my certificate of conformity will allow me to get spanish plates.
I know the brake abs exercise is a walk in the park for alot of you, but it is far beyond anything i have done on this bike.

I hope the pictures I posted are of future use...

Thanks again

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