Final Drive Ratio

Dunblane56

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Oct 1, 2015
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Location
Oxford, England
2012 R1200GSA TU

I recently purchased a final drive from a fellow of this community, it has some slight damage on the main body that I would like to rectify
However I can not determine if it is the correct ration for my machine

Stamped on the arm near the pivot bearing is 32/11

Question is, is this the correct FD for my machine and is there any way I can check without literately taking it to bits

Useful comments greatly appreciated
 
When mine was rebuilt (an excellent job by Mikey), I had my local powder coaters refinish the casing. After two winters, all the old areas of corrosion have returned. So, you might as well file it down, fill, etch prime and paint as the corrosion will probably be back and at least paint can be touched-up.
 
When mine was rebuilt (an excellent job by Mikey), I had my local powder coaters refinish the casing. After two winters, all the old areas of corrosion have returned. So, you might as well file it down, fill, etch prime and paint as the corrosion will probably be back and at least paint can be touched-up.

I think it depends on the powder coaters, some use primer , some use two pack etch primer.My coater uses 2k etch and it doesnt come off or corrode... ever.I threw my 1150 down the road in Dublin after leaving Mides house, and gouged seven bells out of the panniers.gouges everywhere. 25k later it didnt bleed thru or come off.
 
I think it depends on the powder coaters, some use primer , some use two pack etch primer.My coater uses 2k etch and it doesnt come off or corrode... ever.I threw my 1150 down the road in Dublin after leaving Mides house, and gouged seven bells out of the panniers.gouges everywhere. 25k later it didnt bleed thru or come off.

Powder coating (and enamelling) done by Chris Ward of Burton on Trent has always been very good, but the guys down here also primed the prepared metal. However the job done down here has not lasted as well. Another issue is that powder coat wont work with normal fillers. it has to be electric conductive like "Lab Metal" - very costly stuff with a short shelf life.

Next time, I would have the BMW paint professionally stripped, then I'd prep and paint it myself. Any future damage or corrosion carry-through is more easily dealt with when paint is used.
 


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