changing oils

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malcopopolo

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bike MOT today and obviously passed.

Decide to start the 24k service today

Just changed the oil and filter.

Used motul 7100 and hi-flo filter

On draining the oil which i believe is dealer castrol stuff. This oil was like water, i have never known engine oil so piss weak. It was not fully black but almost.

The motul 7100 oil was noticeably thicker, the oil filter when comparing to the original bmw filter were virtually identical and clean inside once the oil was removed.

Took the bike for a quick 2 mile spin without my helmet on to listen to the engine and I am convinced it is quieter with motul 7100.

Going to use motul 7100 from now on.



Also changed the gear oil.

Used motul 75w90 which was also thicker.

Cannot understand why BMW in their design use a hex and a torx to fill and drain. Why not use the same type?

Next weekend is to check clearances, change air filter and plugs. Then off to mikeyboys in Oct to have some tyres fitted. The beast will be good for next year.

What I must do is NOT test ride the new BMW
 
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Is yours a TC or older?.. not a LC? as you've done the gearbox so assume so.. unless you mean the diff / bevel box.. I used Castrol 75-90 Syntrax in mine......
thought that with mine... changed the engine oil and it ran out like water... I too used Motul 7100... it did appear thicker so thought it might reduce the noise... but I'm not sure it has...
 
yes.. very thin.. I've put the same grade (5-40) back in... but was thinking it may be worth going up a tad?... like said before,, it just gushed out ?
 
the 5 w oil flows around the engine on cold start much quicker, than 15 w by a significant margin,
the lc was designed for 5w, to get vital oii flowi to the cams crank etc,
the higher flow also provides better. cooling of high stress components,
its just something to consider for longevity,
please dont think i am ticking you off, it wont affect my. bike,
just sharing some facts,
its worth going on u tube and put in engine oil viscosity test,
there is a flow. cup test of 0 w up to 20 w compared,
 
the 5 w oil flows around the engine on cold start much quicker, than 15 w by a significant margin,
the lc was designed for 5w, to get vital oii flowi to the cams crank etc,
the higher flow also provides better. cooling of high stress components,
its just something to consider for longevity,
please dont think i am ticking you off, it wont affect my. bike,
just sharing some facts,
its worth going on u tube and put in engine oil viscosity test,
there is a flow. cup test of 0 w up to 20 w compared,

Thankyou - got me thinking
 
For 1 change and 6 k miles it may not be a big issue just long term,
The valves are usually in spec,
mine were closer to minimum spec but never changed,
 
For 1 change and 6 k miles it may not be a big issue just long term,
The valves are usually in spec,
mine were closer to minimum spec but never changed,

I am thinking of removing 2 litres and replacing with 5w40 so it becomes 7.5W45 and using the drained two litres next time
 
Only 5w50 and even better 0w60 oils that seem to be available in the UK are not suitable for wet clutches
 
Only 5w50 and even better 0w60 oils that seem to be available in the UK are not suitable for wet clutches

yes.. thats what I was thinking.. pitty tho.... but then are we going OTT on the 5 bit?... how cold does it get in the UK?
 
Yes that my thoughts. I certainly would not ride in minus C

Just ordered motul 10w50 7100 and I replace 2 litres.

Bike will then have
2 litres of motul 15w50 and 2 litres of 10w50



Sent from my Lenovo TAB 2 A10-70F using Tapatalk
 
Yes that my thoughts. I certainly would not ride in minus C

Just ordered motul 10w50 7100 and I replace 2 litres.

Bike will then have
2 litres of motul 15w50 and 2 litres of 10w50



Sent from my Lenovo TAB 2 A10-70F using Tapatalk

Why not just put the 10-50 in... may do that myself....
 
Have been reading lots of info. So many mixed messages and opinions.

Cancelled order and gone with motul 7100 5W40

It's what had been used in tens of thousands lc engines with no real problems. I just wanted to sound less rattly.

Sent from my Lenovo TAB 2 A10-70F using Tapatalk
 
As you are using a good quality synthetic oil, i would leave it in ,
Go back to 5w 40 next time,
Part of the reasoning on modern engines is eficiency and cold start load like stop start, the oil is the bearings, no oil film under load is the reasoning,
Also the secondary oil flick mist gets to the pistons etc quicker,
So if youre old school and let the engine idle a while before setting off it wont be as big an issue for 1 oil change,
Ducati use treacle spec and recommend warm up before riding,,,had one its recommended,,
Long term staying in grade on modern engines especially with hard coated cylinders is good practice,
 
Just put the specified oil in Marcopolo. The thing about a 5w40 multigrade is that it acts like a 5 weight oil when cold and a 40 weight oil when hot. So, whilst you might think it seems thin when it's cold, you're not seeing the proper picture.
 
Thanks. Definitely putting in 5w40 in

For the sake of £40 it's worth it for peace of mind. Especially as I will be keeping for a few more years.

Sent from my Lenovo TAB 2 A10-70F using Tapatalk
 
That is the proper picture. when hot, its like water... when you change the oil you warm the bike up and remove the plug... its like tap water running out... I think where Marco was going before with a 5-50 or even a 10-50 will help keep the noise down...
if your not using the bike in -20 deg, is there any real worl differance in the 5 to the 10?
There must be some published info on this somewhere as to flow rates at given temps... ?
 
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