Fk,fk, fukity ,fk

This might help..

I fancy getting some of those guides made up myself.. might come in handy one day


<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/dJfkCj3FWBs" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
This might help..

I fancy getting some of those guides made up myself.. might come in handy one day

Those guides are a great idea.

I'm not a great fan of screw extractors. Many moons ago I had what I thought was a good quality set, managed to drill a hole dead centre of the offending bolt, started using the screw extractor which sheared of in the hole leaving me in a worse situation than when i started! I got the bolt out in the end, but I can't remember how, I think I ended up drilling many much smaller holes around the broken extractor, and as close to the threads as I dared, the heat from drilling these weakened the hold the bolt had, and tapping it out with a sharp centre punch did it, I think.
 
in my experiance, they break of level with the surface, or just below making these guides useless? it you can use them all well and good, if not you are into ctr punching to try get the brill down the middle of the bolt. also the break will not be flat so you are trying to start the drill on a angle... all great fun LOL.. just don't crt punch it too much or you can end up splaying the bit thats left making it tighter in the hole. Some bolts are softer in the middle making this a tad easier... :)

good luck.
 
Don’t use those and they are as soft as butter, wonder how I know��
Funny how you go onto nippy’s site and you can just the bolts on there own ,
Is that me being cynical or just a coincidence?
Ian, I take it you bought an oem spare bolt from bmw ,rather than buy and use another from the same manufacturer?
 
in my experiance, they break of level with the surface, or just below making these guides useless? it you can use them all well and good, if not you are into ctr punching to try get the brill down the middle of the bolt. also the break will not be flat so you are trying to start the drill on a angle... all great fun LOL.. just don't crt punch it too much or you can end up splaying the bit thats left making it tighter in the hole. Some bolts are softer in the middle making this a tad easier... :)

good luck.

Yeah it’s just below, Doh!:blast
 
After watching the video about extracting bolts earlier and the bit about using copper grease when installing new bolts - Just a word of warning, if the instructions give you a torque setting, but does not mention lubricating the bolt, do not lubricate it. The grease can/will in result in the bolt being overtightened, as I found out to my cost some years ago. Fortunately, I realised the bolt in question was being stretched by my actions so I was able to remove it, clean the threads, and put a new bolt in.
 
Funny how you go onto nippy’s site and you can just the bolts on there own ,
Is that me being cynical or just a coincidence?
Ian, I take it you bought an oem spare bolt from bmw ,rather than buy and use another from the same manufacturer?

No I was talking about the screwfix thread extractors. They are shite and either break or the square end rounds off, and i was using a quality tap bar!!!
 
punch in the ctr.. and look see if its flat or on a angle.. if it angled, position your drill so it's 90 deg to the surface initialy. start the drill 2mm or so deep so you can now turn the drill to drill straight down the axis of the bolt. it will stop you coming off all the time.
I've done this in the past and the heat from the drill etc has allowed me then to hammer a screwdriver in the hole and pull the thing out... if not and it's central, you can drill it out as much as you can and then it should move even if you have to break bits off at a time.
as said before, watch out for stud removal bits that are not what they should be.. snap one off in the studd, it becomes a much bigger issue :)
 
Funny how you go onto nippy’s site and you can just the bolts on there own ,
Is that me being cynical or just a coincidence?
Ian, I take it you bought an oem spare bolt from bmw ,rather than buy and use another from the same manufacturer?

The newer bolts from machine art are not the same as the BMW oem bolts, as I have already said, so I reckon the Nippy bolts that are sold separately are the new ones from Machine art, copy of email I got from machine art below, I waited and got the 12.9 grade.

The reason we provide 3.5mm longer bolts is to compensate for the addition thickness of the X-Head. We can send you the latest 12.9 grade steel bolts in about 10 days since we're waiting to receive them from our manufacturer. We have 8.8 grade steel bolts we can send now, but you must be careful to limit tightening torque to 9 Nm. You can use your OEM bolts for the time being, but because they are shorter you must be particularly careful not to over tighten them. Let me know what you prefer us to do.
 
Cheers smogbob
That mail seems to be like admitting the bolts they are supplying are shit quality initially.
Not even going into that conversation.
 
Cheers smogbob
That mail seems to be like admitting the bolts they are supplying are shit quality initially.
Not even going into that conversation.

Exactly that, and unfortunately has many have found out, but I think the real problem is the bolts where to short in the beginning, , hence the 3.5mm extension, as to not unintentionally over torque, 9nm is not a lot......
 
Looks like it’s off to toolstation for some left hand drill bits:thumb
She is still looking good Nutty,:thumb
 

Attachments

  • FFF78E4C-1440-4C0E-9EE8-4AD5929279DF.jpg
    FFF78E4C-1440-4C0E-9EE8-4AD5929279DF.jpg
    244.5 KB · Views: 306
b2796d4b8d837d955cccf8362b8b371a.png


https://www.screwfix.com/p/screw-ex...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CN38qe_wg94CFQbE3gody1ACGQ

It’s not too difficult to do it your self.
Depending on where you take it between £15-40 I’d say


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking at the photo of the part that snapped & where, you may not be totally at fault? Given they are aware of an issue (warning text) The part should have been re-designed with a slight radius running inti the shoulder at its weak point - this is common engineering practice & makes the fail much less likely as the 'weak point' is strengthened
 
yes, as Smog says, make sure you cover everything, protect the chain etc and just have the bit showing you are working on before you start drilling... don't want any of that finding its way into the internals!
 
Well that’s me calling it a day,
I purchased the various bits.
Couldn’t find any left hand drill bits from either tool station or screwfix ,so bought a drill bit and the guide thing so I couldn’t go off center while drilling.
Covered the area as advised incase of metal fillings etc.
Got a hole drilled and had evidence of filings etc, then tried to get the extractor to bite but all it seems to have done it burred the end of the extractor bit,

So before I feel like I could do more damage , I’m leaving it to somebody who knows what they are doing,
Fkity fk
:mad::blast
Cheers for the advice lads.:bow
 

Attachments

  • 47087E7A-F676-4E42-88F9-0DE20B105C95.jpg
    47087E7A-F676-4E42-88F9-0DE20B105C95.jpg
    259.2 KB · Views: 282
  • 0CEA1893-D116-434C-9549-01A87EA1883A.jpg
    0CEA1893-D116-434C-9549-01A87EA1883A.jpg
    237.7 KB · Views: 286
I don't think you've drilled deep enough.. put some tape on the drill (try it in the other side) and drill through the bolt...
When you put the extractor in, you obviously need to turn it anti-clockwise.
Looks like you've got the hole in the middle... I'd drill it out to 0.5mm less than the tapping drill size or even closer... is it M6?... do you have a 4.5mm?
Come on.. you've done the hard bit getting it central...
 
Well you've fooked the job up :bash however its pretty to look at and Carbon dip looks great compared to the boring plastics.
 


Back
Top Bottom