EWS warning

Santa-2512

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Went to start the bike Friday Morning and there was nothing going on .


I coud see somthing on the display but i didnt have my reading glasses on , but i'm sure it was EWS

anyway turned off and on again, and it started fine ...


Did the same on the way home, but this time in better light i could see EWS on the display

Wiggled the connector and turned off and on again and it went out, and i got home -

I'll order one from the mothership Monday

Looking at the repair CD it says you have to drill the bolt heads off, and remove them with a stud remover

And they need a special tool to replace the bolts

Is there any way to do it without drilling out bolt heads & studs??
 
From memory, no.

You can just connect replacement ews to the loom and then ziptie key too it. Then use a non chipped key in the ignition lock and it will Live (spoken ala Frankenstein)

Some twat had used threadlock too on the R which buggered up my brilliant left hand threaded drill bit idea.

Good luck

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
 
Hi, you just need to drill the heads off the screws, then remove the ring-antenna thing, then unscrew the remaining parts of the screws, plenty to grip with pliers or similar. Replaced with allen-head screws. I think I did remove the top yoke on my 2005 bike to do this, but I think you might manage it without removing anything.
 

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Thanks for snips - looks like i'm going to have to purchase some extra bits then ;)

Would just start to get cold as i need to do this - typical lol
 
I remember there is actually a 4.5mm dia pilot hole in the screw head so all you need is the 8.5mm drill. That will drill the head off the shank. If bit is a bit (!) bigger (9mm), no prob, just stop when head comes loose. Even if you go too far, it is only the ring antenna which you are removing anyhow.
 
Mole grips easily unscrewed my drilled off screws. If they are too tight, they are probably thread locked.

Bad news - that will demand the headstock is removed and heated to >100C to soften the glue.

Good news - the steering bearing is probably getting worn so a handy opportunity to replace it.
 
I'm not convinced it's the antenna,

its given the EWS message a couple of times now, but if i turn off wiggle the cable and turn on, all is ok

I'm using the car at the moment (weather) so may have a look at the weekend
 
Sorry for length of reply, hope it helps.

This is from hexcode on ews problems.

EWS

EWS – Electronic Immobilizer on CAN-based BMW motorcycles


What does "EWS" stand for?

It is German for "Elektronische Wegfahr Sperre"
The most common symptom:

The motorcycle does not start and the “EWS” is intermittently or permanently displayed on the instrument cluster (KOMBI)
The problem

Since the systems inception in 2004, it has been plagued by various problems, the biggest by far being the (un)reliability of the Ring Antenna and Evaluation electronics. This of course is a single point of failure and if it does not work, there is NO chance of authenticating the Key and no chance in hell that your engine will start and run.
The Fault Code diagnosis

According to several dealerships and dealer techs we spoke to, a faulty ring antenna raises a Fault code within the BMS-K(P) only 50% of the time...
General description of the EWS system in CAN-bus based motorcycles

The electronic immobilizer consists of 4 parts:
BMSK_EWS_System_2s.png
1 RF Transponder in the Key
2 The Ring antenna
3 The Evaluation electronics integrated into the Ring antenna module
4 The Engine Control Unit (BMS-K or BMS-KP)

When the ignition is switched on, the Engine Controller initiates communication with the transponder chip in the key. Data is exchanged and if the challenge is authenticated, the BMS-K(P) will unlock the ignition (spark), fuel injection, fuel pump and starter motor.

The Transponder chip

The "chip" in the Key does not contain a battery. In stead it is powered by the magnetic field of the Ring antenna, which also acts as the RF communication medium. In essance the transponder is a wireless read/write EEPROM with a unique serial#.

The Ring antenna and evaluation electronics

The Ring antenna both powers and communicates with the Transponder chip in the Key. The max communication distance between Key transponder and the Ring antenna is just short of an inch (2cm) and that is the reason why there should NEVER be any other Keys with transponders in close proximity, as they would both be powered by the Ring antenna’s magnetic field and both try to communicate, thus essentially corrupting each others signals.

The Evaluation electronics

This is integrated in the Antenna ring unit and conditions both the RF and data signals to the BMS-K(P) in order to communicate with each other (read: rf <-> digital conversion). The Evaluation electronics is powered by Ignition (Terminal 15), and has the following pin-outs:

pin1 : Terminal 15 (ignition)

pin2 : Terminal 31 (ground)

pin3 : data

pin4 : data

The BMS-K(P) ECU

A certain portion of the BMS-K(P) software is dedicated to the EWS. This block of software integrates the data from the Key (by means of the Evaluations electronics, to the rest of the engine management functions of the ECU. It's primary tasks are:

To retrieve the identification data from the Transponder in the key and validate its authenticity
To release the rest of the engine management functions, if the they key is authenticated
It manages up to a total of 10 keys
It manages the keys that have been blocked (typically if you've lost a key, you can have it blocked)

The EWS procedure at start-up is as follows:

When the ignition is switched on, it powers the Evaluation electronics and in turn the Transponder chip in the Key
The BMS-K(P) authenticates the key data against its corresponding data within the BMS-K(P)
Based on a secret algorithm, a random number is manipulated by both the Transponder as well as the BMS-K(P). The Key's answer is transmitted back to the BMS-K(P), and if they are a match, the rest of the engine management functions are released.


The dreaded "EWS issue" has a silver lining?

What to do when things go wrong

Unlike, loosing your key (quite probable) or an electronic failure within the BMS-K(P) (highly unlikely – cars have been using these modules for years!), the unreliability of the Ring antenna and Evaluation electronics, does have a silver lining… Anyone can replace it! (no special matching by the BMW diagnostic computer required) – unlike the learning of a new key or the replacement of a BMS-K(P) control unit!

That’s why you should have at least ONE spare unit amongst your riding party… AND ALWAYS carry your spare key… The spare key is essential as it is required when your loose (misplace, of course) your current key, however also required for the emergency Ring Antenna replacement procedure (the original ring antenna is difficult to replace, hence you will only be unplugging the wires from the original connector and plugging them into your replacement unit. However your replacement unit will not reach your key in your ignition switch – hence you require two keys… one in the ignition switch (to turn the ignition) and the other taped or cable-tied into the replacement ring antenna, to authenticate and enable your engine controller…)
What you require…

A spare ring antenna (New part#: 61 35 7 705 247 ) released 06 2008
Your spare ignition key!
Some cable ties and/or tape (to fasten the spare key to the replacement ring antenna)

Is the ring antenna always at fault!

NO! in some occasions the symptoms of the motor not starting and “EWS” displayed intermittently or permanently on the instrument cluster are NOT the result of a faulty Ring antenna!

If the Low beam comes on and “EWS” is displayed, when the ignition is switched on the first time after the battery has been removed, the Ring antenna is NOT faulty!

This happens when the BMS-K(P) boots up incorrectly… A good booted BMS-K(P) always shows the gear indicator in the instrument panel, provided the gear selector potentiometer is NOT faulty (GS-911 will tell you this).

Once the ignition is switched on a second time, the EWS should function normally!
What to check before replacing the Ring antenna?

Cycle the ignition again, and if the problem persists, then
Check the wiring and wiring connector to the Ring antenna for:
Any damage (possibly caused by chaffing etc. or rodent damage)
Over tightened cable ties that might have cut into the wiring or are preventing good contact at the connector (due to lack of slack in the wiring)
Poor connection at the connector to the ring antenna
Read the fault codes with GS-911. The ring antenna might not be the problem that is preventing your motor from starting!

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
 
Sorry for length of reply, hope it helps.

This is from hexcode on ews problems.

EWS

EWS – Electronic Immobilizer on CAN-based BMW motorcycles


What does "EWS" stand for?

It is German for "Elektronische Wegfahr Sperre"
The most common symptom:

The motorcycle does not start and the “EWS” is intermittently or permanently displayed on the instrument cluster (KOMBI)
The problem

Since the systems inception in 2004, it has been plagued by various problems, the biggest by far being the (un)reliability of the Ring Antenna and Evaluation electronics. This of course is a single point of failure and if it does not work, there is NO chance of authenticating the Key and no chance in hell that your engine will start and run.
The Fault Code diagnosis

According to several dealerships and dealer techs we spoke to, a faulty ring antenna raises a Fault code within the BMS-K(P) only 50% of the time...
General description of the EWS system in CAN-bus based motorcycles

The electronic immobilizer consists of 4 parts:
BMSK_EWS_System_2s.png
1 RF Transponder in the Key
2 The Ring antenna
3 The Evaluation electronics integrated into the Ring antenna module
4 The Engine Control Unit (BMS-K or BMS-KP)

When the ignition is switched on, the Engine Controller initiates communication with the transponder chip in the key. Data is exchanged and if the challenge is authenticated, the BMS-K(P) will unlock the ignition (spark), fuel injection, fuel pump and starter motor.

The Transponder chip

The "chip" in the Key does not contain a battery. In stead it is powered by the magnetic field of the Ring antenna, which also acts as the RF communication medium. In essance the transponder is a wireless read/write EEPROM with a unique serial#.

The Ring antenna and evaluation electronics

The Ring antenna both powers and communicates with the Transponder chip in the Key. The max communication distance between Key transponder and the Ring antenna is just short of an inch (2cm) and that is the reason why there should NEVER be any other Keys with transponders in close proximity, as they would both be powered by the Ring antenna’s magnetic field and both try to communicate, thus essentially corrupting each others signals.

The Evaluation electronics

This is integrated in the Antenna ring unit and conditions both the RF and data signals to the BMS-K(P) in order to communicate with each other (read: rf <-> digital conversion). The Evaluation electronics is powered by Ignition (Terminal 15), and has the following pin-outs:

pin1 : Terminal 15 (ignition)

pin2 : Terminal 31 (ground)

pin3 : data

pin4 : data

The BMS-K(P) ECU

A certain portion of the BMS-K(P) software is dedicated to the EWS. This block of software integrates the data from the Key (by means of the Evaluations electronics, to the rest of the engine management functions of the ECU. It's primary tasks are:

To retrieve the identification data from the Transponder in the key and validate its authenticity
To release the rest of the engine management functions, if the they key is authenticated
It manages up to a total of 10 keys
It manages the keys that have been blocked (typically if you've lost a key, you can have it blocked)

The EWS procedure at start-up is as follows:

When the ignition is switched on, it powers the Evaluation electronics and in turn the Transponder chip in the Key
The BMS-K(P) authenticates the key data against its corresponding data within the BMS-K(P)
Based on a secret algorithm, a random number is manipulated by both the Transponder as well as the BMS-K(P). The Key's answer is transmitted back to the BMS-K(P), and if they are a match, the rest of the engine management functions are released.


The dreaded "EWS issue" has a silver lining?

What to do when things go wrong

Unlike, loosing your key (quite probable) or an electronic failure within the BMS-K(P) (highly unlikely – cars have been using these modules for years!), the unreliability of the Ring antenna and Evaluation electronics, does have a silver lining… Anyone can replace it! (no special matching by the BMW diagnostic computer required) – unlike the learning of a new key or the replacement of a BMS-K(P) control unit!

That’s why you should have at least ONE spare unit amongst your riding party… AND ALWAYS carry your spare key… The spare key is essential as it is required when your loose (misplace, of course) your current key, however also required for the emergency Ring Antenna replacement procedure (the original ring antenna is difficult to replace, hence you will only be unplugging the wires from the original connector and plugging them into your replacement unit. However your replacement unit will not reach your key in your ignition switch – hence you require two keys… one in the ignition switch (to turn the ignition) and the other taped or cable-tied into the replacement ring antenna, to authenticate and enable your engine controller…)
What you require…

A spare ring antenna (New part#: 61 35 7 705 247 ) released 06 2008
Your spare ignition key!
Some cable ties and/or tape (to fasten the spare key to the replacement ring antenna)

Is the ring antenna always at fault!

NO! in some occasions the symptoms of the motor not starting and “EWS” displayed intermittently or permanently on the instrument cluster are NOT the result of a faulty Ring antenna!

If the Low beam comes on and “EWS” is displayed, when the ignition is switched on the first time after the battery has been removed, the Ring antenna is NOT faulty!

This happens when the BMS-K(P) boots up incorrectly… A good booted BMS-K(P) always shows the gear indicator in the instrument panel, provided the gear selector potentiometer is NOT faulty (GS-911 will tell you this).

Once the ignition is switched on a second time, the EWS should function normally!
What to check before replacing the Ring antenna?

Cycle the ignition again, and if the problem persists, then
Check the wiring and wiring connector to the Ring antenna for:
Any damage (possibly caused by chaffing etc. or rodent damage)
Over tightened cable ties that might have cut into the wiring or are preventing good contact at the connector (due to lack of slack in the wiring)
Poor connection at the connector to the ring antenna
Read the fault codes with GS-911. The ring antenna might not be the problem that is preventing your motor from starting!

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Interesting! :)

My low beam always comes on but extinguishes almost immidiatley.

I didnt know about the gear indicator check will have to look out for that !

When it stops raing, i'll plug the 911 in and have a mosey round.

Not to keen on the second antenna / key hack as a long term solution. i'd rather change the bugger than have a key left on the bike ;)

I did have to glue the cover on the back of the module on again some months back, as it fell off when i was changing the ignition switch pack
 
You’re not having much luck with that bike, Mart! Time for a 1250!:green gri
 
You’re not having much luck with that bike, Mart! Time for a 1250!:green gri

You might now be far wrong ;)

I see the prices are dropping for later models now, dont know about a 1250, but a TC or later hex might become viable at some stage ;)
 
You might now be far wrong ;)

I see the prices are dropping for later models now, dont know about a 1250, but a TC or later hex might become viable at some stage ;)
Is okay, nutty is going to swap his tango for your beautiful steed, and give you cash to smooth the transaction too.

Can't say fairer than that.

Got to go, nurse's are calling again.

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
 
Is okay, nutty is going to swap his tango for your beautiful steed, and give you cash to smooth the transaction too.

Can't say fairer than that.

Got to go, nurse's are calling again.

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

:jes

Nuttys is to big :( it's nice though :)
 
It seem to happen a bit like a failed crank position sensor. When the CPS signal goes down the engine stops, but when the codes are checked there's nothing found. To be fair that's correct because if the ECU does not see the crank turning it "thinks" the engine has stalled so fault is not indicated. When you try to start the engine there's no movement seen so no spark or fuel gets delivered = = no fault. Nothing changes until a new sensor is fitted.

If an EWS fails to authenticate the key it's no different (electronically) to the wrong key being used so no fault gets raised.
 
A problem I faced with an intermittent EWS fault turned out to be a partially broken wire between the ignition and the main ecu The bike would start on full left hand lock but not straight or right either Iirc there are five wires in this part of the loom Hope this helps someone
:beerjug:
 
A problem I faced with an intermittent EWS fault turned out to be a partially broken wire between the ignition and the main ecu The bike would start on full left hand lock but not straight or right either Iirc there are five wires in this part of the loom Hope this helps someone
:beerjug:

Where was your break?

I stripped the front of the bike to investigate this properly.

The new replacement EWS ring made sod all difference - So its not that then :( and to make it more :( :( i broke the little lock lug off the connector grr :(

I stripped the wires back to the nearest branch, but cant see anything obvious hmm.

What i do know is LH lock OK no ews warning and the bike starts

RH lock NOK An EWS warning and the bike wont start

Typically i need rh lock to get my likkle legs over the seat ..

Joking aside looking at the loom, i cant see much difference / movement from going from LH to RH lock.

How did you test for your broken wire ? which one was broken on yours ? the twisted pair or the the outer ones?
 
Where was your break?

I stripped the front of the bike to investigate this properly.

The new replacement EWS ring made sod all difference - So its not that then :( and to make it more :( :( i broke the little lock lug off the connector grr :(

I stripped the wires back to the nearest branch, but cant see anything obvious hmm.

What i do know is LH lock OK no ews warning and the bike starts

RH lock NOK An EWS warning and the bike wont start

Typically i need rh lock to get my likkle legs over the seat ..

Joking aside looking at the loom, i cant see much difference / movement from going from LH to RH lock.

How did you test for your broken wire ? which one was broken on yours ? the twisted pair or the the outer ones?

pmed you :beerjug:
 
Definatly a wiring fault :(

LH lock = ok
Straight ahead = EWS
RH lock = EWS
if i lift the loom slightly it works fine ..

Theres no cable ties at the branch but its right in the V of the frame mount so to speak .. Bugger!!

dont really want to be taking side panels & tank off :(

Looks like i know what i'm doing over the weekend :(
 


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