What Optemiser Battery Maintenance Thingy do I Want?

MEDICMAN

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Hi all,

When I bought my (then new) 1200GSA last year it came with a connector for a battery maintenance socket.

Has anybody else got one of these and if so can you please recommend the right make of Optemiser/Battery Maintenance thingy I should get to look after my hibernating p&j.

Many thanks,

MM
 
I picked a second hand BMW canbus charger up off this forum highly recommended great piece of kit however I also had an optimate 4 with the canbus lead before that and had zero issues.
 
I use a Canbus compatable charger bought from Nippy Normans which just plugs into the gsa auxiliary socket. You can just buy some leads to fix to the battery terminal points under the side cover and use pretty much any motorbike battery conditioner you like such as the Optimates or something like the Kree3 intelligent charger.
 
The Wundelich one from nippy normans is a rebranded optimate which does the job perfectly for a tenner less. Still canbus and dies a great job.
 
I’d buy this one the CTEK XS 0.8
https://www.amazon.co.uk/CTEK-Autom...2?ie=UTF8&qid=1542135078&sr=8-2&keywords=ctek
It comes with a detachable fly lead that you attach directly to your battery. £36.99 at the moment on Amazon, but I bet they’ll be under £30 on 'Black Friday’ which is the 23rd November.

I believe with the NON canbus aware chargers if you do connect directly to the battery you must disconnect then battery from the bike as the newer systems on the bike do not like it and you risk refusal for repairs if there is an issue.
Before everyone jumps down my throat with the “I’ve been doing this for years with no problems” so have I. It is I believe partly to do with the way some of the electronics don’t fully go to sleep. I blame keyless and trump.
 
I believe with the NON canbus aware chargers if you do connect directly to the battery you must disconnect then battery from the bike as the newer systems on the bike do not like it and you risk refusal for repairs if there is an issue.
Before everyone jumps down my throat with the “I’ve been doing this for years with no problems” so have I. It is I believe partly to do with the way some of the electronics don’t fully go to sleep. I blame keyless and trump.

Confusing one this as I checked with BMW and they said that any modern bike specific battery conditioner was fine as long as it uses latest IUoU charging technology (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IUoU_battery_charging) if connected directly to the battery. Battery doesn't have to be disconnected to charge. Plenty of other bikes using keyless (as well as cars) can use any "intelligent" conditioner. Can't help but feel there's an element of marketing at play with any other claim.
 
I believe with the NON canbus aware chargers if you do connect directly to the battery you must disconnect then battery from the bike as the newer systems on the bike do not like it and you risk refusal for repairs if there is an issue.
Before everyone jumps down my throat with the “I’ve been doing this for years with no problems” so have I. It is I believe partly to do with the way some of the electronics don’t fully go to sleep. I blame keyless and trump.

Just get an Optimate 4 canbus, that way you can use it for everything.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Optimate-4...=1542145484&sr=8-2&keywords=optimate+4+canbus
 
Just ride the fucking thing once a week or so. Much easier. :blast

I get so p*ssed off when people make statements like this. Like there's some big 'hero club' for the year-round riders or that anyone who does less than 20,000 miles a year has sexual identity issues.

Don't forget, some of us work abroad for months at a time, and others of us (maybe the same people) spent years commuting from Oxford to Central London in all weathers and would now rather go in the car if it's sub zero.
 
The OP asks "What Optimizer Maintenance Thingy do I want"?


There are several products out there, but to make life easier I would like to narrow down the choices to three.


- Optimate 4 CAN bus edition
- CTEK XS 0.8
- BMWs own CAN bus charger.

CTEK:
This is the cheapest of the lot. According to descriptions it does a fine job bringing a low battery back to life. Limited desulfatoring abilities and it is made to be connected for a long periode of time with a sleep mode and 10 days between checking the battery. Does not handle the BMW aux outlet, a direct to battery cable is required.

Optime 4:
This is the most advanced charger of the lot. In addition to the regular charging cycles it has a recondition desulfator program. You may use the AUX outlet. For the desulfator procedure, the battery must be disconnected and direct connection to the battery is required, as the desulfator voltage is too high for the bikes electronics. A built in check prevents the procedure to be performed while the bike is connected.


BMWs CAN charger.
Does pretty much the same as the CTEK, but may be used through the AUX port and has a LCD display that shows status in plain language.


CTEK is the cheaper, BMWs charger is the most expensive.

CTECK is a fairly simple charger, but in order to keep the battery alive during the winter it will probably do a fine job. Hook it up and leave it on until the spring comes

The Optimate is the one with most advanced options. In order to use all of them, the "Extra" requires the battery to be disconnected.

As long as the battery is connected all the mentioned charger does the same job, more or less.

CTEK has a very basic display, but easy to understand.
Optimate have several LEDs, but may be confusing to understand. You really need to keep the manual available in order to understand it. (Or you can trust that it works and drop the manual)


BMW charger does not do more or less to the battery than the others but has a two line display that says what it's doing in plain language. It may be used either through the AUX port or direct to battery cable. It does not handle the AUX plug better or worse than the Optimate.
Usually, if there are issues by using the AUX port for charging the problem is on the bike side of the plug.


The CAN-bus ability is merely that a charger usually does a test of the battery prior to charging. If connected to the CANbus, the port is closed and as the charger senses nothing, it will not start a charge.
The CAN bus connect procedure starts by applying 12V to the plug. This will signal to the ZFE that there is a charger on line, and ZFE opens up allowing the charge to begin.

However, some of the charge cycle consists of pulsing the battery, and this may be done to a certain extent. But if the low-voltage of the cycle is too long, the ZFE close the port.


As for using the Aux plug or a direct connect cable, my choice would be a direct connect cable. Aux plug sounds tempting, but it limits the charger the ability to properly monitor the battery as the current is routed through the ZFE in the bike. If the internal GPS plug is used, the AUX port may not open up for the charger. All in all, do your self a favour and forget about the AUXport (yes I know, it is possible to make it work, but there is always the chance for it to screw up.) Also, with a direct to battery cable you may use it to hook up equipment that requires more than 5A, e.g an air pump.
 
Thanks KNUTK for that.
I’m guessing it’s the desulphate or deep discharge modes are the modes that could mess up the bike electronics and canbus aware prevents them from engaging?
 
I get so p*ssed off when people make statements like this. Like there's some big 'hero club' for the year-round riders or that anyone who does less than 20,000 miles a year has sexual identity issues.

Don't forget, some of us work abroad for months at a time, and others of us (maybe the same people) spent years commuting from Oxford to Central London in all weathers and would now rather go in the car if it's sub zero.

Calm down, calm down. It's a bike forum, FFS! I don't do much more than 12K miles/year but have so far managed to avoid any gender identity issues - I think.... I ride solely for leisure. As long as it's not freezing I'll go out for a ride, usually with chums and mostly at week-ends, as I still have my nose to the grindstone. The concept of not riding in England all year round just doesn't occur to me. FWIW, I own an Aldi £10 trickle charger which has never been anywhere near my GS, though it has been deployed on a couple of old clunkers I keep in the garage. Continue to be as pissed off as you want. It's your blood pressure. :p
 
Calm down, calm down. It's a bike forum, FFS! I don't do much more than 12K miles/year but have so far managed to avoid any gender identity issues - I think.... I ride solely for leisure. As long as it's not freezing I'll go out for a ride, usually with chums and mostly at week-ends, as I still have my nose to the grindstone. The concept of not riding in England all year round just doesn't occur to me. FWIW, I own an Aldi £10 trickle charger which has never been anywhere near my GS, though it has been deployed on a couple of old clunkers I keep in the garage. Continue to be as pissed off as you want. It's your blood pressure. :p

Fair enough but some of us just don't have that leisure time (I wish that I did!). 12K miles annually with just weekend riding? I get a couple of 1 to 2K tours plus an afternoon here or there per week, ride often but honestly probably don't get more than 6K annually and as I don't commute nor have time or the luxury of time, have no choice but to stick the bike on maintenance charge between rides to keep the battery in tip-top condition. That was the point I think of the thread. Once or twice weekly short rides do sweet fanny all to keep a battery in condition so some of us have no choice but to use a conditioner. Not a point of argument, but a point of fact.
 
Thanks KNUTK for that.
I’m guessing it’s the desulphate or deep discharge modes are the modes that could mess up the bike electronics and canbus aware prevents them from engaging?

I don't know if the ZFE has a built in protection for high/low voltage, but I think it will shut off the port if the charger starts draining the battery. Anyway, the Optimate does it's own check and will not start the high voltage pulses as well as discharge the battery if it senses that the battery is connected.
 


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