2009 GSA

Alwaysawayround

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Friend of a friend is selling her GSA for a superb price, it's a good deal and I'm thinking of having it purely for trails with permanent knobblies on, it has part service history and the clutch done, comes complete with panniers and was a "commuting" bike.

Current mileage is 70k which isn't much really as long as it's been serviced at intervals I would presume, so I'm wondering what are the main areas to check with an adventure with that kinda mileage? I.e. What's likely to fail or be on the way out? TPS? ESA? FD/splines? Alternator? The indicators flash quicker but that's usually a fuse issue which I understand wouldn't be that, the rubber boot failed an MOT which has been done and things like basic service and splines I can do myself, any other areas of advice would be helpful..

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Everything you mention plus, final drive , ABS , brake disc warping, shock absorber leaks/problems, it goes on :thumb
 
Have a look at the Fuel Pump Controller. If its silver you might want to change it, carry a spare or carry a work-round cable.
If its a black one - it's good.

You might want to ask if its had the rear wheel flange changed.
 
Everything you mention plus, final drive , ABS , brake disc warping, shock absorber leaks/problems, it goes on :thumb
How do you check for warping on the discs? I suppose a good half hour run changing the ESA, some trails and motorway would tell me more than checking it over frantically I suppose

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Have a look at the Fuel Pump Controller. If its silver you might want to change it, carry a spare or carry a work-round cable.
If its a black one - it's good.

You might want to ask if its had the rear wheel flange changed.
Aghh the dreaded fuel pump, thanks for the reminder. I remember reading that huge feed on the bypass. I'll take mine out and check actually as it's occasionally shutting down from 2nd to 1st, a suggestion is the throttle bodies for this though...

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Aghh the dreaded fuel pump, thanks for the reminder. I remember reading that huge feed on the bypass. I'll take mine out and check actually as it's occasionally shutting down from 2nd to 1st, a suggestion is the throttle bodies for this though...

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TPS is the most likely culprit - you can strip & clean

A new tier 1 pattern part is about £38
 
Friend of a friend is selling her GSA for a superb price, it's a good deal and I'm thinking of having it purely for trails with permanent knobblies on, it has part service history and the clutch done, comes complete with panniers and was a "commuting" bike.

Current mileage is 70k which isn't much really as long as it's been serviced at intervals I would presume, so I'm wondering what are the main areas to check with an adventure with that kinda mileage? I.e. What's likely to fail or be on the way out? TPS? ESA? FD/splines? Alternator? The indicators flash quicker but that's usually a fuse issue which I understand wouldn't be that, the rubber boot failed an MOT which has been done and things like basic service and splines I can do myself, any other areas of advice would be helpful..

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Play in the rear drive and pinion gear would be one to check

if its got play in any direction a rebuild would be in order -

Mikeyboy is your man for that
 
How do you check for warping on the discs? I suppose a good half hour run changing the ESA, some trails and motorway would tell me more than checking it over frantically I suppose

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Other than a dial test indicator on the disc to check run out, a good old fashioned road test as you suggest, is in order.
 
At the end of the day I suppose it depends on how much of a bargain it is? My 2010 twin cam was what I would call a bargain, in so much of I bought it thinking “at this price if/when it goes wrong it was a still bargain to buy!”:thumb
 
Pre-TC? Might need new cam chain tensioner loader on LHS if rattly on start-up.
Check to see if rear brake disc carrier is updated? (Warranty job).
Look for cracks on fuel connectors on both left and right side pumps. (Warranty job).
 
Mine is an 08 - overall a good bike but there are issues.

Final drive is not as solid as the Twin cam version. Used boxes are not silly money so when the wheel bearing goes AWOL consider a newer final drive.

Frame paint on mine was horribly thin. I had it powder coated with conductive zinc undercoat.

Engine front cover corroded around he screw holes. Not unusual on any hexhead.

Fuel pump and controller are flakey. Even the black controller can't be trusted 100%. Mine failed and its now back on the old bare metal controller.

Fuel level strip is a pain in the arse. Get a float conversion.

Suspension will be knackered by 30K miles but it can be rebuilt for reasonable costs. To be fair, Wilbers shocks have to be serviced every 15K miles to maintain the warranty. The BMW units do well to get to 30K.

Wheel hubs corrode on the wire wheels. Get a set of alloys for winter use.

Rear discs are hammered by the linked braking. Expect to be replacing regularly. Do not use OEM organic pads in the rear. Mine lasted under 4000 miles. Top spec Ferrodo organics or sintered are ok.

Front brakes have given me no problems. Rebuild kits for the rear callipers are cheap but £60 a side for the fronts is a bit rich.

Rear master cylinder eventually jams and locks the brake. I fitted a used later model type and all is well again. Front master cylinders are silly money. You cannot buy seal kits.
Heated grips are about £200 a pair.

Headlight is rubbish. Fit LED bulbs.
 


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