Sorry I was using The Workshops tarty name for delboy's garage whose favorite garage application seems to be Copper Grease
A brake bleeding question - sorry
- Thread starter Pops
- Start date
The application of copper grease has nothing to do with his garage.
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WD 40 causes the seals to swell up..best to use an old toothbrush n some soapy water then brake cleaner to dry then a thin smear of red rubber grease on the pistons n push them back in .. or just use clean brake fluid .. find that over use of brake cleaner causes the pistons to stick in the seals as it cleans off all the lube
Having now complete my brake bleed, here are a few observations:-
* The You Tube videos kindly posted on this thread by Jersey_GS are for the servo assisted ABS bikes (i.e. Prior to mid - late 2007)
If, like me, you take the panels and tank off and you don't have Servo brakes, all you will see is the ABS motor/system which has no bleed nipples.
* If you want to go down the route of using a GS911 to bleed the ABS system, this is quite simple but does require the ABS motor to be in working order - unlike mine which hasn't worked for years
However, if you follow the good old fashioned method of keeping the brake reservoirs topped up and bleeding the brakes at the calliper until the new fluid is forced through, then all should be OK, especially if you tie the brake lever down/back after bleeding for a few days to force any air bubbles out through the reservoir.
Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread, and I hope that someone may find it useful in the future
* The You Tube videos kindly posted on this thread by Jersey_GS are for the servo assisted ABS bikes (i.e. Prior to mid - late 2007)
If, like me, you take the panels and tank off and you don't have Servo brakes, all you will see is the ABS motor/system which has no bleed nipples.
* If you want to go down the route of using a GS911 to bleed the ABS system, this is quite simple but does require the ABS motor to be in working order - unlike mine which hasn't worked for years
However, if you follow the good old fashioned method of keeping the brake reservoirs topped up and bleeding the brakes at the calliper until the new fluid is forced through, then all should be OK, especially if you tie the brake lever down/back after bleeding for a few days to force any air bubbles out through the reservoir.
Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread, and I hope that someone may find it useful in the future
Bendy toy
Registered user
My bike has the Ford Fiesta type ABS unit. Both brakes bleed just fine using normal methods. I suck out the master reservoir with a syringe to remove old fluid, top up with new and pump the fluid through. Job done.
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