G/S project... sort of

As you say,it will easily be fitted.
It really depends on the riding you intend to use the bike for.
I’ve ridden loads of converted GS’s with upside down forks,
The lack of lock has me out.(unless done properly)
It’s that one off manoeuvre that will catch you out,with potentially painfull results.
It’s hard to explain how weird it is to attempt a uturn with a shit steering lock,the bikes running wide and ,,you fall over.:comfort

My XR650R was running CRF forks so I'm not too unfamiliar with the situation. The only time I really had an issue with it was riding down a dry stream bed in a narrow ravine here in Cyprus - nearly every corner I had to run the front wheel up the wall to make it round. Having said that the bike liked to be steered using the rear wheel and, with a high comp piston it was pretty easy. Not sure the g/s has the same kind of immediate grunt on tap.
 
KTM 640 WP triple clamps available now here http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showth...ite-Power-triple-clamps?p=5275733#post5275733

I have not measured the offset accurately but it's about 20mm (from centre of the stem to a line between the centres of the stanchion clamps) so although they're quality parts, I doubt they're going to solve any of the issues highlighted above.

I know I’m sounding like a broken record,
But as stated above the offset on a ktm yokeset is @20/22/24 mm.
The offset on a Gs iirc is 39mm,, massive difference:thumb
 
So it looks like the project may be moving slowly forward.

After a search it looks like my first priority is actually having the rear wheel rebuilt to an 18" rim. There appears to be only 2 or 3 tyres that actually fit on the 17" rim that are narrow enough to clear the mono-lever. The closest to a dirt tyre is an MT60 which doesn't really cut it for me. No point in having dirt capable suspension if you can't fit half decent tyres.

I have also just had a cash injection thanks to the insurance being settled on my accident. This means that my dearest has suggested that she buys me a shock for my birthday. Better than that though, the insurance company left me with the wrecked gasgas because they thought it was worthless - I just sold it for €500 which should pay for a wheel rebuild and leave a bit extra.

To finish the plot I have also ordered set of yokes and USD Showa forks off a Husqvarna from eBay for the grand sum of £75 delivered. I'm not sure exactly what bike they are from but my best guess the they date from around 1995. I know the stem will fit but might need a spacer that can be bought from Offroad Basis. Other than the price, the real attraction is the offset on the yokes which the seller measured at 30mm. This, coupled with the smaller diameter compared to current USD forks means that I shouldn't lose too much lock. My spare gasgas wheel will also fit the axle with new bearings. This leaves me to sort wheel spacers and a calliper bracket once I also buy a calliper and SM disc.

Give it a month for everything to arrive here and I can get started.
 
Mitas E-09 is a better than half decent off road tyre and available as a 17 x 120. There are other tyres such as the TKC 80 or MT 21 that may also be suitable.
 
I would be perfectly happy with an E-09 but I can only just fit a 110 MT60 on there. 120 will not fit - The smaller diameter means that the tyre does not sit by the 'dent' in the mono-lever and the wider rim makes the tyre wider.
 
I have a Mitas C-02 71 N 110/100 18 on my Mono. Catches a little bit, but not so you'd notice.

Saying that, the TKC 80s will be going on again soon for longer term road and off road use.
 
I don't think that tyre is available in a 17" to fit my GS wheels.
 
I use the 17” x 120 E-09 on my R100GS and clearance isn’t an issue. I would have thought the paralever housing is larger than the monolever but who knows. In my opinion an E-09 is as good a tyre as you’ll need on a big bike like a G/S. I use a MT 21 on the front but you could use something more enduro orientated at the expense of grip on the tarmac.
 
Metzler Enduro 3 Saharas come in a 4" which fits and suits my bike the best of all I have tried, and I have tried the lot

They are 50/50 but the road grip seems as good as most 80/20s and the off road grip much better.
Dont last me long, 4/5000 km on the back 6/7000 on the front. And the local importer never seems to have stock!

If cost is important Dunlop 604s are a bit cheaper and the 120 fits with plenty to spare. As good as any 80/20 I have tried and better than most.

If mileage is important Mitas E07s last 2/3 times as long as anything else and suit the bike quite well, but just don't have that last little bite offroad that the Saharas have. And like any long lasting tire they end up pretty square -----.

I tried a set of Knobbies once, but shredded them in 900 km, I think it is the off road riding that does it!
 
I have found the GS 650 x triples fit (although the stem needs moving down as the stem has a narrow part) but there is enough "fat" to allow this

They will then take "old" WPs

I have yet to do this, but food for thought

I was following you on ADVRIDER, as I bought an ST, but sold it as too pristine, so bought the "interesting R 80 g/s" discussed under airheads that was on ebay
- interesting in the wiring, but it runs beautifully & has the original parts
Currently running a non shortened DRZ fork - pushed up through the clamps





So it looks like the project may be moving slowly forward.

After a search it looks like my first priority is actually having the rear wheel rebuilt to an 18" rim. There appears to be only 2 or 3 tyres that actually fit on the 17" rim that are narrow enough to clear the mono-lever. The closest to a dirt tyre is an MT60 which doesn't really cut it for me. No point in having dirt capable suspension if you can't fit half decent tyres.

I have also just had a cash injection thanks to the insurance being settled on my accident. This means that my dearest has suggested that she buys me a shock for my birthday. Better than that though, the insurance company left me with the wrecked gasgas because they thought it was worthless - I just sold it for €500 which should pay for a wheel rebuild and leave a bit extra.

To finish the plot I have also ordered set of yokes and USD Showa forks off a Husqvarna from eBay for the grand sum of £75 delivered. I'm not sure exactly what bike they are from but my best guess the they date from around 1995. I know the stem will fit but might need a spacer that can be bought from Offroad Basis. Other than the price, the real attraction is the offset on the yokes which the seller measured at 30mm. This, coupled with the smaller diameter compared to current USD forks means that I shouldn't lose too much lock. My spare gasgas wheel will also fit the axle with new bearings. This leaves me to sort wheel spacers and a calliper bracket once I also buy a calliper and SM disc.

Give it a month for everything to arrive here and I can get started.
 
I've been doing a bit of riding, fettling and pondering over the last few months.

I spent a couple of rides tweaking the rear shock adjusters and have it pretty well dialled in, which is good but it does show up the limitations in the front. On road it is good enough that I have ran out of rubber on both tyres so it can't be too bad. Off road however, the front end is a bit harsh, but currently the biggest limitation is the tyres.

I have also been thinking about how I want to use the bike: The g/s is never going to perform like a modern bike or be a full on dirt bike. If that is what I want I would be better go out and buy one. The aim was for a bike that I can potter around on, some road, some dirt track, maybe a bit of an adventure touring. More importantly, after my accident I decided that I had to slow down a bit, but I have never been much of one for self control when it comes to the throttle. Spending a load of cash replacing the forks, probably the wheels, then maybe bracing the frame etc would no doubt make the bike nicer to ride, but I would most likely end up riding it faster which is not what I want.

So I have decided to leave some things alone.

The GS forks suit the bike well enough and, except for those with a sharp eye, look original. Rather than change them I will be fitting a gold valve emulator. It might be a faff to adjust, and not on par with a modern set of forks, but it should still be a significant improvement over the current set-up.

I had got used to the front brakes but have improved them anyway with a new braided line and fresh fluid.

The GS wheels also gave me a dilemma - the rear tyre choice is currently very limited due to the lack of clearance, not helped by the change from an 18" to 17" rear wheel. The widest I can fit on there is a 110 and there are very few tyres of this width. Tubed rims would definitely be lighter but, while Haan can rebuild the rear with an 18" Excel rim, this is not an ideal solution due to the angle of the spokes in the hub to match the tubeless rim and only a limited increase of offset is possible. I am also keen to keep both wheels the same - either both tubed or both tubeless to avoid having to carry 2 different puncture repair kits. After a bit of reading on ADVrider I found that it is possible to offset the rear rim on the GS wheel, with the results proven over a significant number of miles and years. This will need a new set of spokes with different lengths on either side - not free but a lot cheaper than sending a wheel to NL for a new rim. To back this up I also found that Mitas offer their range of tyres in a 120/90-17 which is almost the same diameter as their 18" tyres, and they can be fitted tubeless.

So what else have I done and what is on the cards?

A set of fastway pegs are slightly lower and further back - the angle originally didn't feel quite right as they were tilted slightly to the rear but changing the grub screws that serve as boot cleats, with shorter ones fitted at the front, worked well.

The tank was resprayed alpine white. It looks like new but won't stay that way unless I get some decals on there to protect the paint from being rubbed by my knees while I ride standing up off road. Still debating which decals to fit.

I managed to contact motorworks when they had a rare as unicorn poo g/s tool tray in stock so I will soon be able to go out without my tool roll strapped on the pillion seat.

The silencer has now partly melted 2 pairs of boots. This can't go on and, since I tend to travel light with soft luggage over the seat and no frame, it might be worth fitting a lower silencer (probably a used slip on can) and heat wrapping the link pipe that will be required.
 

Attachments

  • 7AEC725C-6A28-4565-9B87-F5B37B0EFD61.jpg
    7AEC725C-6A28-4565-9B87-F5B37B0EFD61.jpg
    254.5 KB · Views: 413
wise words & good ideas

It seems it is only worth big new USD forks if done properly, which requires expensive bespoke triples.... did you speak to the uk triple clamp firm ?

but i might still try the 650x clamps as i have a set of older WPs - but they are way too long at 93 cms being exc forks
I also have a set of 640 SMC forks (90 cms) & a set of 690 forks (89.5cms) , but they are too fat to go with the 650x clamps....

I also have a set of GS forks, as well as the original G/S forks......
Can a G/S wheel be made to fit with GS forks

I am just trying stuff out...

in the meantime i need to ride the bike as is with too long DRZ forks & then decide -
anyone know of anyone who services & shortens WP or DRZ forks?

Thanks all!
 
I spoke to the UK yoke firm - they were happy to help, and were much cheaper than other available options, but needed me to send my yokes - something I wanted to avoid because BFPO to and from Cyprus is not the fastest service. Any of the forks you have should work but all will need some work to get the whole setup to fit.

GS forks and yokes will almost be a straight swap but will most likely need a GS wheel and brake calliper. The GS axle is quite a bit thicker than the g/s and I don't think the g/s wheel can be made to fit easily. I believe the G650X, DRZ and GS all have the same axle diameter.

If you have WP4354 forks they will definitely fit straight into the G650X yokes - I don't know about the offset on the yokes though; from memory it isn't that great. The forks a definitely a big step up from the Marzocchi forks that came on the Xchallenge so will be massively better than the originals.

Shortening forks is not a difficult job so long as you can get hold of a set of internal spacers or have access to a lathe or know a friendly machine shop who can make some. You will also most likely need the tool to hold the cartridge inside the fork while you remove the valve from the bottom. Once you have them stripped down it should be just a case of adding the spacers and reassembling. A standard bike mechanic should be able to do the job but may struggle obtaining the spacers where a suspension specialist should be able to handle the whole job. The process should be pretty similar for both DRZ and WP forks.

Your best bet might be to contact Bas at Hyperpro (Prutser from ADVrider). He will probably be able to send you a set of spacers for the DRZ forks. If not he should know what dimensions you need so you can get the spacers made in advance. This will allow you to give the spacers and forks to a bike shop or suspension specialist who has the cartridge tool and get them to do the job for you.
 
A few months on - a few more jobs done...

A braided hose has sharpened up the front brake a bit.

Gold valve fitted to the forks has really improved the front end. Currently set to the Racetech recommended settings. I also purchased a grabber so I can retrieve the valve from the forks for adjustment without having to remove the fork and tip it upside-down.

The tool tray arrived but is a little small for my tool roll - not to worry as it will hold a puncture kit, mini compressor and a couple of odd bits quite nicely. Instead I cut and folded a small sheet of alloy to make a mini rack behind the seat. This holds my tool roll in a Kriega rally pack. While I was in the cutting and bending mode I also fashioned a heat shield for the silencer so I can fit some soft bags over the pillion seat.

I ordered a custom set of spokes from Central Wheels (5mm longer and shorter than standard) and have re-laced the wheel resulting in an additional 8.2mm offset. When it had been rebuilt by the previous owner the wheel had already been set at maximum offset for the standard spokes so it is probably offset around 11 or 12 mm at the moment, with enough thread on the spokes to add a bit more if necessary. I have read lots of horror stories warning against attempts to work on the GS tubeless wheels - I have built a few wheels before but don't consider myself an expert wheel builder, however I was able to complete the job without any dramas. Time to order a new set of tyres now - still not totally decided but I will probably end up with Mitas E09.

This evening's job was replacing a leaking neutral switch - hopefully my boots will now come back without a fine coating of gearbox oil.

Lot's of progress then, however there always seems to be more to do. The speedo needle recently started to stick, only after the bike has been running for a bit so perhaps something is rubbing and heating up inside. The miles still click over so it is a speedo fault rather than the cable or gearbox drive. Not sure whether I will have the current unit repaired or replace it with a digital unit. I have a 3D printer so one option is to create a spacer ring to fit a smaller speedo in the 100mm hole similar to Siebenrock with the Acewell unit.

Hopefully the jobs will cease because I have a short trip on the cards at Easter. A loop of the TET in Greece looks tempting providing the proposed new Cyprus - Greece ferry is on line by then. I have also been researching trails in southern Turkey on Wickiloc which can be reached via a ferry from the north side.
 

Attachments

  • 84C9C2FE-2322-4FA8-BB65-9BF624F9E7F7.jpg
    84C9C2FE-2322-4FA8-BB65-9BF624F9E7F7.jpg
    241.2 KB · Views: 262
I am also interested in taking my bike over to Turkey but understand that paperwork for the ferry is a problem (as is recrossing North to South) Perhaps your licence plate or employment makes it easier?
 
Another rider in Cyprus? We'll have to meet up.

In 2016 I rode my bike (then an XR650R) to the North, then took the ferry to Turkey before riding all the way to Greece to compete in Serres Rally. I originally had the bike loaded onto a rack behind my Landrover but had to leave that behind as it was registered to my wife rather than in my name. It was ok to drive it north but not onto the ferry. No problems with the bike in either direction, although there are some procedures that need to be followed - too much to go into here but I am happy to share with you. The issue North to South is for importing a vehicle - Cyprus authorities will only allow you to register a vehicle that has been officially imported through Limassol port. Travel through the occupied territory is possible but is not recognised as an official port of entry for importation.
 


Back
Top Bottom