Quick advice needed!!

Johnnydrama

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Afternoon!

I have a mechanic currently mounting a set of aux spots. They are 12v and have no switch so im looking for them to be hard wired into my 2013 gs lc.

Problem is he is not getting 12 v at the taillight or the power supplies under the beak. (8v i think). I need somewhere for him to wire to that wont upset canbus and thats 12v switched by ignition.

Can anyone advise please before i have to pick it up without working spots???!

Thanks


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What wattage are the lights you have would help but I think you will need them switched via relay and separate switch. Hope this helps.
 
Previous threads indicate the grey/white wire going to the rear light as a power source?

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Is the tail-light on?
If so, its getting voltage.
If the mechanic can't see it, get a new mechanic.

If the tail light is on, but goes off when the spots are connected, then the canbus is seeing a it as a fault, shutting the circuit down, and you'll need a relay.
I would always do it with a relay as a matter of course.....don't forget the fuse.
 
Sorry but no chance of running 10watt spots from the light supply without fault light on dash coming on or lights switching off. Just canbus doing its thing.
 
Double checked and they are actually 3w each.

Change of plans now. Ive ordered a good bar switch and ill then fuze them direct to the battery.

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I trigger the relay from a wire taken from the back of the accessory plug.
The spots will stay on for 12 seconds after you turn off the ignition (1 minute on the RT)
 
I trigger the relay from a wire taken from the back of the accessory plug.
The spots will stay on for 12 seconds after you turn off the ignition (1 minute on the RT)

Won't this cause a problem IF one uses a the BM battery charger connected to the accessory plug?

I connected the trigger for the relay from one of the two wires from the fuse block located underneath the front of the rider seat. (One is always live, one is a switched live).
This does not interfere with a charger connected to the accessory plug.
 
Won't this cause a problem IF one uses a the BM battery charger connected to the accessory plug?

I connected the trigger for the relay from one of the two wires from the fuse block located underneath the front of the rider seat. (One is always live, one is a switched live).
This does not interfere with a charger connected to the accessory plug.
Do you see any issue with me going fuzed to battery with handlebar switch?

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You can get a 12v switched detection from the plug thats under the seat thats were I get the switched wire for the Ez-Can. I dont have a picture to hand but a volt meter will elucidate and answer , it will stay live approx 60 seconds after ignition off.The rear light is variable voltage feed so its not going to work from there and you will need to use a relay with inline fuse fed from the battery for the light power.

EDIT

this looks like it

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You do not want to run lights off existing wiring as it's not designed for the extra wattage. You use a relay attached directly to the battery and the tail light as a trigger. Even easier is something like a HEX EZCan
 
Do you see any issue with me going fuzed to battery with handlebar switch?

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I would not run a direct fused supply to a handlebar switch. If you park up somewhere and an "oick" plays with the switches you could come back to a flat battery.
Electrically it would work and be safe except for the above.
 
I would not run a direct fused supply to a handlebar switch. If you park up somewhere and an "oick" plays with the switches you could come back to a flat battery.
Electrically it would work and be safe except for the above.
True mate but im limited at present!

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If you go for the direct fused battery supply to the handlebar switch, leave enough slack in the wire after the fuse to add a relay ( triggered by the switched live from under the riders seat) at a later date.
 


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